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Appreciating vs. Depreciating Assets

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I think it’s widely known that there are two types of assets: appreciating and depreciating. I think it’s less known what’s classified as appreciating and depreciating.

In this article, we will look at what each term means, examples of each, and how to use them effectively.

What’s appreciation?

Appreciation is the increase in value. The majority of assets used to accumulate and grow wealth, appreciate. An asset can appreciate because of supply, demand, or a change in interest rates.


What’s depreciation?

Depreciation is the exact opposite. It’s the loss of value. The most common example is a car, but more on that later.

Appreciating assets

  • *Stocks – It’s commonly known that investing in stocks is the best way to not only keep pace with inflation but to grow your wealth. A stock is partial ownership in a public company. Popular examples include Apple, Amazon, Facebook, etc. (Click here to learn more about stocks)
  • Real estate – Single-family homes, duplexes, apartment complexes, etc. Though the pace at which real estate appreciates dwarfs compared to stocks, it does so slightly over time. (Source)
  • Private equity – This can be starting a company of your own or you can invest in a startup. There are also private equity funds that exist, as well. Basically, it’s a company or venture that is not open to the public (i.e. stocks on the exchange, etc.).
  • Alternative – Less common assets that could appreciate (cryptocurrencies, precious metals, art, and other collectibles).
  • Bank accounts – Savings accounts, certificates of deposit, etc. These don’t appreciate much, especially in the current “low-interest-rate”. Some may argue that you shouldn’t classify these as appreciating assets because inflation erodes away the purchasing power over time.

Depreciating assets

  • Cars
  • Boats
  • Furniture
  • Equipment
  • Patents/Copyrights – Patents, other than section 197 intangibles, have a useful life of 10 years and can be amortized over that 10 year period. (Source)

What’s the point?

  • Appreciating assets – Owning and investing money in an appreciating asset is the key driver in growing your wealth. Those who’ve accumulated significant amounts of wealth have done so by earning a living, saving, and investing diligently over decades.
  • Depreciating assets – There are a few reasons to own a depreciating asset.
    • Fun and convenience – We own and drive cars because we need them to go places. We buy boats because they are fun. In either case, you could also own a car or boat for your business, in which case it would serve a different purpose.
    • Business – Owning and operating machinery and equipment is how many of us make a living or run a business.
    • **Tax write off – If you use equipment, machinery, cars, etc. for business, oftentimes you can use the depreciation of that equipment as a tax write off.  Financial advisors use a set of fancy calculations to come up with the tax benefits of depreciation, we won’t go into that here.

Conclusion

Appreciating and depreciating assets both serve a purpose. It’s important to know the difference between the two and how to use each one as effectively as possible.

*Stocks can sometimes experience periods of volatility and negative performance. During such periods, the value of such stocks may decline.

**Be advised: talk to your accountant about specifics.

Stock Splits, Asset Allocation, Cognitive Bias

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During the last month, the market and the economy have seen and done some weird things. Apple and Tesla announced stock splits, and the NASDAQ and the S&P 500 achieved record highs. All while COVID cases increase and the economy continues to suffer as a result.

What’s going on?

Stock splits

Apple (AAPL) and Tesla (TSLA) have seen some crazy increases in their stock prices over the last few months.

Since the beginning of the year, Apple is up about 67% and Tesla is up a whopping 390%. Tesla’s insane run-up is partially due to the influx of retail investors using online platforms, such as Robinhood.

I bring this up for two reasons:

  1. Incredible increases in stock prices, as we’ve seen with Tesla, can be dangerous. Warren Buffett illustrated it best when he said, “Only when the tide goes out do you discover who’s been swimming naked.” Insane run-ups in value attract more investors until the trade becomes crowded and unsustainable. Then people sell to capture their gains, and the stock price could fall as a result.
  2. Stock splits are not a “get rich quick” trade. I heard someone recently say, “buy Tesla now, before it splits, because once it splits, you’ll make 4x your money in an instant.” Tesla will undergo a 4 to 1 stock split. When Tesla’s stock splits, if you own one share at $2,000, you won’t have 4 shares at $2,000, you’ll have 4 shares at $500. Your total value does not change.

Asset allocation

I knew asset allocation was one of the biggest factors determining investor success, but this year confirmed that.

So far, in 2020, we’ve seen the fastest bear market in history, when the S&P 500 fell 37% in 6 weeks. Followed by an unprecedented run that brought that same index to new record highs.

With appropriate asset allocation, depending on your age, time horizon, and risk, you were able to miss some of the downside and participate in some of the upside.

It’s important to ask the right questions to figure out what the best asset allocation is for you.

Cognitive biases

I’m not going to lie, during the month of March and April, I was feeling pretty proud of myself. Yes, I was worried about the lives affected by COVID and the economic implication it could have, but I did a pretty good job of allocating client assets accordingly.

Even after the market bottomed and started to recover, I held the belief that ugly was just getting started. With everything that I listened to and read, it appeared that once the government stimulus ran out and bankruptcies started rolling in, things would get worse.

I still believe that, but I am making sure that I do research on the opposite view. I’m trying to do what Ray Dalio does so successfully. I’m trying to prove myself wrong.

Only finding sources that back up your thesis is called confirmation bias, and I’m trying to avoid that at all costs.

Make sure you are gathering information from a variety of sources. View both sides of the aisle. Keep your biases in check.

Related reading:

Why Asset Allocation Matters

Psychology of Money

The Questions You Need to Ask Yourself

What It Take To Be A Successful Investor

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What makes a successful investor? Is it your ability to beat the market or to beat your competition?

In my opinion, being a successful investor doesn’t have to do with out-earning your peers or leaving the S&P in the dust. No, my definition is very simple.

Develop an investment plan using a variety of factors, and be able to execute and follow that plan indefinitely.

Suitability

This is step 1. You need to figure out what your “suitability” is. Your suitability will lay a very good foundation upon which you build your investment plan. Suitability involves three things:

  • Risk tolerance – This is your ability to handle drawdowns in your portfolio. If you crumble with fear every time you lose 5 percent, then you’ll probably want a fairly conservative portfolio*. On the other hand, if you have no problem seeing your portfolio drop 50 percent, then you’re ready for a more aggressive allocation.
  • Time horizon – Probably the most important factor of the three. Your time horizon is basically when you’ll need the money. A long time horizon allows an investor to take on more risk because there’s more time for them to recover from drawdowns. The inverse is true for short time horizons. You’ll want to be conservative because you have little time to earn back what’d you lost.
    • Long time horizon – 10+ years
    • Medium time horizon – 2-5 years
    • Short time horizon – Less than 2 years
  • Goals – What’s your plan? Is this savings going to be used as a down payment for a house? If so, there’s probably a minimum dollar amount you have in mind and you’ll want to tip the odds in your favor that you don’t go below that. Similarly, if this is for retirement and you have 30 years to invest, you have the green light for risk assets.

Keep in mind that all three of these things, plus one other, need to be used together when determining your asset allocation. If you are tolerant of risk, but need the money in 5 years, somewhere in the middle between aggressive and conservative is probably better. That one other thing is your behavior as an investor.

Investor behavior

The finance/investment world is coming around to this, but your psychology is a HUGE factor as an investor.

Obtaining a high return on assets is one of your goals, but it should not be the primary goal. When you create an investment plan you have to make sure it’s something you can actually stick with.

I wrote about it previously, here.

You could be tolerant to risk and you could have a long time horizon, but if you lay awake at night every time the market drops, then you need to rethink your approach.

That kind of fear and anxiety hinders your ability to follow your plan. What normally happens, is someone sets an unrealistic investment plan, one where they take on too much risk.

Thereafter, volatility picks up. They check their portfolio and it’s declined 15 percent. They wait a day and check the next.

Another 2 percent drop. Then the thought of 2008 creeps into their heads and the panic sell.

You can set up a great investment plan, but your behavior will ultimately make the decisions. Keep that in mind.

Asset allocation

Using your suitability and behavior, you can then determine your asset allocation. The types of assets you use in your allocation can vary. If you wanted to invest a small percentage of your portfolio in gold, for instance.

The three most common assets are stocks, bonds, and cash. With risks ranging from high risk to virtually (there’s always some risk) no risk.

Speaking very generally, people with long time horizons and are more tolerant of risk, have a more aggressive portfolio. The inverse is true for people with short time horizons and a low-risk tolerance.

That said, the ultimate goal is to develop a plan that meets your goals in the smoothest fashion possible.

Ignore the noise

Throughout your investment “career” you’ll run into people, friends, family, or even random people on the street that will tell you the sky is falling or that the newest IPO will go gang-busters and you need to get in now!

Put your blinders on. There are two things that hurt investors. Their own behavior and their ability, or lack thereof, to tune out what’s happening around them.

This is extremely difficult because we, as humans, have evolved to use our peers to compare or judge, our standing in society.

Stay in your lane and focus on your goals.

Never stop learning

Every single experience in your life is a learning opportunity, especially the bad one. I recommend journaling daily, recount your day, and dig little nuggets of knowledge from your experiences.

Additionally, take in some form of content every day that improves your understanding in your line of work, or in an industry that you’re interested in.

With regard to your finances, give our Toolkit page a look. There you’ll find a number of books and resources to enhance your financial know-how.

Please be advised: Everything written in this article is for informational purposes only and should not be taken as investment advice. Opinions are my own and do not reflect the opinions of this publisher or my employer.

Further reading:

The Psychology Of Money

 

Expected Family Contribution: Digging For (and Finding!) Financial Aid

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As you’re waiting for that perfect college to give you the nod, “Expected Family Contribution,” or EFC, is a key term you need to understand BEFORE filling out the FAFSA form (…and you should be filling out the FAFSA form NOW).

Expected Family Contribution is the amount you’ll be expected to pay out of pocket toward your education. Here’s the simple formula:

Cost of college – your need = Expected Family Contribution

Sometimes it’s easier to understand what’s being asked by seeing the equation drawn out. Not to be completely obvious, but that equation makes three points clear:

– You can lower your bill by attending a less expensive institution
– You could attend a more expensive school and not pay a dime more if your need covers the difference between the cheaper school and more expensive school.
– You can lower your Expected Family Contribution by attending a less expensive school, increasing your need, or a combination of both.

Like I said, pretty obvious, huh?

If it was SO obvious, though, why do so many people overpay for college? Not my readers, though, right? We’re so lucky we hang out together!

 

EFC is about Income and Assets:

 

An overall note about assets: Assets are excluded for most people with adjusted gross income below $50,000.

Child Money – The FAFSA treats dependent student money as MORE IMPORTANT than parent money in the EFC equation.

Rational? While parents may have other priorities, the child has one: graduate.

Therefore: 20% of dependent and independent student assets count against them when calculating EFC. Little Jimmy’s got $10 in his savings? That’s $2 less financial aid school will give him.

The EFC calculation includes an “asset protection allowance” for parents and independent students with children before ANY money counts against their EFC calculation. How much is the allowance? While the amount varies depending on age and marital status, the average family receives a $45,000 allowance. After that, only 12% of assets are used toward the family EFC calculation.

So, to summarize:

– Parents and Independent Students with Children receive an asset protection allowance of around $45,000
– 20% of dependent student assets are used for the EFC calculation
– 12% of parent assets are used
– 7% of independent students with children assets

Got it? Awesome.

What’s the rational for these numbers? Parents and students with children have to make ends meet at home first, and then can focus some of their money on college. Students in college should spend a higher percentage of assets on education.

I hope you’re starting to see that WHERE you save is an important factor when deciding how to save for college. Clearly, keeping money in a parent’s hands vs. saving in junior’s name can be a good idea in many circumstances.

Big Point: It’s illegal for parents (or anyone other than the child) to remove money from junior’s name to avoid horrible EFC consequences (or for another other reason). However, junior can purchase items beyond food, clothing and shelter with his own money. You can also choose to save more money (or an equal amount) into the parent’s name for college.

Also notice – 529 plans….they’re in a parent’s name.

…and that money in life insurance policies? It doesn’t count against you at all. As far as EFC calculations go, it doesn’t exist.

Want more on the best places to save for college? Check out: College Savings Simplified, The Best Places to Save for Education

 

Income

 

Expected Family Contribution

Forget full time work for dependent students. It weighs heavily against EFC!

Yeah, I know, you want junior to have a job in college. Guess what? Every dollar junior earns (after a small allowance) counts more severely against his need than income a parent earns. Once again, there’s good rationale for this: junior should be focused on graduating, so if he works, then he should pay every dollar he makes toward school.

As with assets, there is an income protection formula:

– Dependent students receive an income protection amount of $6,000. After that, between 22 and 47% of the amount junior earns is used for EFC calculations. (It’s a sliding scale with percentages rising as the income level rises.
– Independent students with children and parents receive a much more generous allowance. For parents, the number ranges from $16,000 to $55,000 depending on the number of dependents in school and overall family size.

As you can see, parent income counts against need, but once again, parents only have a smaller percentage of their income that counts against EFC.

Rationale? Parents have many priorities besides a dependent student’s education, while dependent students need to save. The EFC allows for a small part time job to learn skills, but punishes students who work full time. Work on graduation!

Good news for me: during the EFC calculation, because I’ll have two in college at the same time, my total parent contribution is divided by two.

Retirement

How do retirement accounts factor into EFC? Money saved into retirement accounts DOES COUNT against EFC. Rationale? You should expect to sacrifice for a short time to help junior through college. If you’re the one headed to school, graduation quickly is your number one priority.

 

Strategies

 

If you’re reading this with young children (or just a glimmer in your eye), realize these calculations can change. However, I’ve been teaching clients about EFC since my children were born, and things are roughly the same as they were then. So:

– Save money into the parent name instead of a child’s name.
– Save aggressively into 401k plans BEFORE college years start because you may have to lower your contributions during college years.
– If you’re fairly certain you’ll be a financial aid candidate, cash value life insurance may be an option (although I generally shy away from these products)
– Forget about junior working full time during college. You’ll just elongate the process for him and you.
– Use Junior’s money to buy assets he’ll use during college and for expenses that don’t include food, clothing and shelter. If you’d like, use the money YOU save by NOT covering these non-essentials into a plan in the parent’s name.

Fun, huh? Financial aid programs actually make a ton of sense to me AND it becomes much clearer HOW to save when you know the keys to the FAFSA and EFC.

What parts of financial aid are most confusing to you? Leave them in the comment section and we’ll try and tackle those next.

This is only one piece of an overall college financial plan. Check out: 5 Steps to a Successful College Financial Plan.

Photos: College student w laptop: Ed Yourdon;

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In Defense of Financial Advisor Fees

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I was a fee hater.

Like a younger, more handsome John Bogle, I would rail on fees. I’d stand on every rooftop screaming about avoiding fees at all cost.

For this reason, when I was a financial advisor, I provided what I thought was top-notch service and undercharged for it every day.

How much did I charge? My minimum fee was $500 per year.

Undercharged? There is no such thing, Joe! Less fees = better. Duh! You should have charged $300!

Think so, do you? Sit close, young padewan, while Uncle Joe tells you a story:

 

My Experience With Fees

 

Early in my career I lucked into the opportunity to give speeches on behalf of one of the top advisors in the country. I’d fly wherever he wished and spoke to rooms full of people about good planning. In exchange, he allowed me to move my offices into his suite.

Awesome! What a break for a new advisor; I’d get to see the inner workings of a well-honed operation and maybe glean some tips.

At first I was disappointed. All I saw was what looked like a cookie-cutter assembly line of advice and deliverables. Many clients received offshoots of similar advice. The firm never stuck their neck out. They avoided complex situations at all cost.

That lead me to believe that he was among the best in the country only because he could “sell” people on ways he’d jack up their fees.

…and jack he did. I rarely saw him charge less than $2,500 for planning, then garner asset management fees on top of that. He was a fee-based selling machine.

One day the operations manager and I were talking. I asked a polite question about how redundant their process management workflow seemed. To give you an idea of what I thought about this guy: I’m sure the term “cocky smartass” wouldn’t be far off the mark.

He said, “Have you noticed that we charge five times what you charge?”

I smiled. “Yes.” What a loser. I could never charge what they did! They were just leeches, skimming off of their client’s blood.

He said, “We charge five times more because we’re five times better than you.”

I took it personally.

I shouldn’t have.

Three months later, we were in agreement:

he was five times better than me.

 

Why He Was Better

 

This planner was so good, I’d worked right under his nose and hadn’t noticed his skill. The systems were sublime. Where I’d seen cookie-cutter assembly lines before, now I saw a brilliant asset allocation arrangement. Where I’d believed he was charging excess dollars to put boring plans in place, he was dotting every “I” and crossing every “T” for clients…mostly doing the boring stuff that usually was swept under the rug.

In short, he had a proven system of asset management and plan building. If you wanted that service, he covered his costs with his fees. If you didn’t want it, you should probably look elsewhere.

He didn’t try to be everything to everyone.

 

What You Can Learn

 

You don’t have to pay $2,500 or more to some advisor if you’re willing to perform the critical tasks that this advisor captained for his clients:

1) Design a plan that covers the six areas of financial planning and rigorously maintain the plan according to a set schedule. Make sure everyone involved is up-to-speed with the details.

2) Build a system to check and maintain your assets against your plan. He had systems in place to notify him when assets deviated too much from the plan. Build your own set of alarms.

3) Carefully guard against taxes and excess fees. This seems like an oxymoron, because this advisor charged a ton of money, but his fees were largely performance based. To increase his fees (and his client’s net worth) he had to ensure the plan was a lean-mean-return-gathering-machine. The only way to do that was to develop a comprehensive tax strategy (example: tax efficient investments outside of IRAs while tax-eaters inside shelters) and low-cost investments.

4) Scour insurances for opportunities. This advisor would review all of his client’s insurances regularly (every two years) to find wasted money. He’d also use insurances wisely to plug holes. One place he nearly always recommended: disability coverage.

5) Build legacies. He was the adamant that everyone either had a family or charitable organization they’d want to have flourish if they couldn’t use their own money. He’d make sure that the estate plan was air-tight and (as with insurance) review these plans every two years.

6) Set communication systems. Clients received a newsletter every six weeks. There was a conference call scheduled for two quarters of the year, along with two face to face meetings. Generally, the face to face meetings were comprehensive and the phone calls were “just checking up.” While he “allowed” only one member of a marriage to take part in phone calls, he was adamant that both spouses attend meetings. He’d become especially irate if one didn’t understand finances and didn’t want to participate. His thinking: if the knowledgeable spouse passed away, the other was screwed.

He also wasn’t afraid to call every client when markets imploded. During the 2002 and 2008 crisis, his whole team was on the phone non-stop, sharing information and passing along strategies. Usually, he wasn’t changing course, because his asset allocation model was already designed to weather downturns. However, clients loved hearing from him.

Was some of this overkill? Maybe. Often insurance and estate planning needs didn’t change. However, when something did, the advisor was on top of it fairly quickly.

 

It’s a Choice

 

During my 16 years as an advisor, there were many clients who refused to pay fees even though they would have been far better off had they paid this advisor. It’s fine to accomplish your financial goals without an advisor (in fact, if you’re willing to complete the six steps above, I’d recommend it). But if you decide not to, make sure you’ve designed systems for success and aren’t just being cheap.

Financial planning is just one example. Are there areas of your life where you’d be better off paying a fee and you just can’t do it? Are you cheap?

(Photo credit: Hands Clenching Dollars, Muffett, Flickr; Couple and Advisor, Jerry Bunkers, Flickr)

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High Yield vs. Other Investing Categories in Pretty Pictures

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When words don’t work, I’ll emulate my buddy PK at the DQYDJ blog and resort to graphics when explaining your investing options. Since I can’t personally be bothered to create any type of creative chart, I’ll instead use a graph that I  received from a friend.

Before we peruse this particular investing chart, I should introduce it, like a big star explains the movie clip:

People worry often about risk when investing. You should. It doesn’t make sense to risk your portfolio without knowing what type of return you’ll receive.

As an example, one of the riskiest investment classes is art. I know and you know that your dogs-playing-poker is probably a timeless classic, but beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder on that one. Unfortunately, if you paid $10k for your Velvet-Elvis-and-the-Eagle rug, that’s probably considered a capital loss.

Here is the risk/reward profile of high yield vs. other asset classes:

 

Chart of Risk and Return

 

People are generally shocked when they see the risk/reward profile of high yield bonds. Is it true that JUNK BONDS are significantly less volatile than large-cap stocks?

Yup.

High yield bonds aren’t much more volatile than 10-year treasuries (which, ironically, have been more volatile than investment-grade bonds)?

Yup again. I knew people who came to this website are flippin’ brilliant.

Maybe now is a good time to review my posts last week on the topic of high yield bonds:

Off topic: Check out German stocks. Lots of volatility, plus those people wear black socks with sandals. I don’t know what those two points put together says, but it sure feels awkward.

 

How about you? Does this chart surprise you? Can you see my love affair with high yield? Make you laugh? Improve your outlook on life?

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