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Why I Love The Roth IRA

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The Roth IRA started in 1997 and it changed the retirement savings game.

It’s probably my most recommended retirement savings vehicle, other than your employer-sponsored plan of course. You have to get that match!

The Roth IRA can be your primary retirement account or a nice complement to a work-based plan.

Here’s why I love the Roth IRA.

Tax-free withdrawals! That’s right, if you save for retirement using the Roth IRA, you get to take that tax-deferred (don’t pay taxes while money grows) savings out of your account without paying taxes.

While you’re working, you generally have two options (besides contributing to your 401k or Simple IRA) do I contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA? The amount of money you make plays a little bit of a factor, as the Roth IRA has an income limit ($137,000 – single, $203,000 – married filing jointly).

However, a back-door contribution is available. That’s where you make a contribution to a traditional IRA and roll the money from there into a Roth IRA. Be advised: You’ll be taxed at the time of the rollover.

That aside, contributions to a traditional IRA are tax-deductible (an income limit applies here). Conversely, contributions to a Roth IRA are not tax deductible.

Here’s why I like to recommend the Roth. I’d save for retirement, without getting that tax-deduction and pay $0 taxes upon withdrawal in retirement. At that point in time, your ability to earn more money is either dramatically reduced or gone completely.

It’s at this point when you need that money the most. I’d rather pay for it now and benefit from it later.

With all that said, I suppose I should list all the characteristics of a Roth IRA.

  • For 2019, the contribution limit is $6,000. If you are 50 or older, you can contribute an extra $1,000. Be advised: these contributions limits change often. Consult the IRS website for up to date information.
  • Because the money in the account was already taxed, there are no mandatory withdrawals. Uncle Sam got his cut already so you can let that baby grow for as long as you want.
  • If you withdraw before 59 1/2, you’ll pay a 10% tax penalty
  • There are exceptions to this penalty, however.
    • Death
    • Disability
    • Use up to 10% on your first home purchase
    • Pay for higher education
    • Medical costs are more than 7.5% of your AGI
    • Can pay health insurance premiums if you’re unemployed
    • The IRS has a tax levy against you
  • You can make contributions for the prior “tax” year up to April 15th.
  • If you withdraw your savings within 5 years of your first contribution, you’ll pay some taxes on your withdrawal.
    • Note: The 5-year clock starts ticking on January 1st of the year you made your first contribution

Conclusion

As I said, the Roth IRA is a great savings vehicle. Whether you use it on its own or use it as a complement to an employer-sponsored plan, it has a place in everybody’s retirement plan.

One last thing I want to mention. My reasoning behind why I recommend the Roth IRA so often is my personal belief. Please use your situation and your money/retirement philosophy when making this decision. It also pays to talk to a professional to see what they’re thoughts are, as well.

What is the Coverdell ESA?

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Introducing the last account type on our quest to find the best way to save for college, the Coverdell ESA.

Without further delay, here’s what you need to know about the Coverdell ESA.

What is it?

Like the 529, the Coverdell ESA is an education savings vehicle for K-12 and secondary education. Coverdell ESA stands for Coverdell Education Savings Account.

It got its name from Senator Paul Coverdell, who introduced the legislation for a similar account, the Education IRA. In 2002, a new piece of legislation was introduced to make the account what it is today.

The 529 and the Coverdell ESA share many of the same characteristics, but there are some things that set it apart. All of these will be listed below.

Advantages

  • Savings and investments in the account grow tax-deferred and are withdrawn tax-free when used for qualified education expenses.
  • When it comes time to withdraw, those funds are not considered income, as long as you are using them for qualified education expenses.
  • Can use in conjunction with other education tax credits, like the Lifetime Learning Credit, as long as there’s no double-dipping.
  • These accounts are self-directed, so your investment options are plentiful. They include…
    • Age-based funds
    • Static mutual funds
    • ETFs
    • Stocks
    • Bonds
    • Real estate

Disadvantages

  • Contribution limit of $2,000 per child per year.
  • The funds inside the account are taken into consideration when you file for financial aid. The assets are considered their parents assets.
  • If the money is not withdrawn from the account by the time the beneficiary is 30, they could be subject to taxes and penalties.
    • After 30, the funds inside the account become fully taxable and you’re penalized 10%.
  • Like the 529, contributions to this account are not tax-deductible.

Unique Characteristics

  • Only eligible to families/individuals that fall below an income threshold ($110,000 for single taxpayers and $220,000 for couples who file jointly).
  • The contribution limit is $2,000 per child per year, so even if a family member opens an account for your child, you still can’t go over that number, or there will be a penalty.
  • Qualified expenses include…
    • Tuition
    • Books
    • Supplies
    • Equipment
    • Tutoring
    • Special needs services
  • And can also include…
    • Room and board
    • Uniforms
    • Supplementary and transportation services
  • With a 529, the account owner has control over the assets. Conversely, with a Coverdell ESA, the beneficiary has control.

Conclusion

Effectively, there are three education savings vehicles used today. The UTMA/UGMA, Coverdell ESA, and the 529 plan. I’ve written about the other two in the past so go check those out.

On paper, the 529 looks like the best option, with a high contribution limit, a large number of qualified expenses, and there’s no penalty for letting funds sit for decades.

That is all true, and honestly, I prefer the 529, but the vast, vast majority of people that are helping their children save for college will not come close to the high contribution limit.

The only drawback to the Coverdell ESA is the penalty if the funds aren’t used before 30. Other than that, I don’t think the $2,000 contribution limit is a factor because most people can’t put that much away, anyway. Not without sacrificing their ability to save for retirement, as well.

That said, they’re both great options and you can’t go wrong with either one.

What Is A 529 Plan?

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Education, especially secondary education, is getting more and more expensive. The cost of a 4-year public university has gone up 110% from 1994 to 2014 (Source).

Conversely, wages have grown an astounding 8 times slower than that (Source).

What can you do to save for college? How can you help your kids? Are there certain vehicles that work better than others?

We’ll take a look at one of those in the following article.

What is a 529?

A college savings plan that is exempt from federal taxes, if you use the funds to pay for qualified education-related expenses.

Those expenses include tuition, books, room and board, computer equipment, and necessary supplies for students with special needs, as long as the student is attending at least half-time.

Advantages

  • Funds can be used for K-12, university, graduate school, and trade schools.
  • Parents can withdraw $10,000 per student per year to pay for tuition ONLY.
  • Other people, besides the account owner, can contribute to a 529 plan.
  • If funds are used for the beneficiary you intended, they can be transferred to a family member.
  • Earnings grow tax-deferred

Disadvantages

  • Gift tax exclusions – You are exempt from paying gift taxes if you keep it under $15,000 per individual per year, or $75,000 as lump sum every 5 years.
  • A penalty of 10% will be assessed for funds used on non-qualified expenses.
  • Limited investment options – most plans offer mutual funds as investments
    • Risk-based – Aggressive, moderate, conservative, etc.
    • Age-based – You can select an age-based fund from the get-go, and the fund company will reallocate into new funds as your child gets older.
    • Self-selected

Miscellaneous

  • All plans come with federal tax advantages, but some states offer tax deductions and credits as well!
  • Every dollar in a 529 plan will deduct 5.6% from your family’s need-based financial aid
    • One way around that is to have a family member act as the custodian for the account, so it isn’t in your name
    • However, once the child begins withdrawing the funds and is still attending school, they could have 50% of their financial aid withheld because those withdrawals are considered income
  • You can open one using other state’s plans, besides your own state

Other types of accounts

  • Coverdell ESA – Similar to the 529 in that you use the funds to pay for education-related expenses, However, there is an annual contribution limit of $2,000 per beneficiary, and there’s also an income restriction (once you make above a certain amount, you can no longer contribute to a Coverdell ESA).
  • UTMA/UGMA – Stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act/Uniform Gift to Minors Act. I’ve written about this in the past, so if you’d like to learn more, check out the article here.
  • IRA – You can use a Traditional IRA or a Roth IRA to pay for education expenses. Similar to the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, the expenses must be qualified and the student must go to a qualified institution, as indicated by the Department of Education. The most beneficial way to use an IRA is to withdraw the funds from a Roth IRA, but only withdraw what you contributed.

Conclusion

Secondary education is expensive! If you start saving for your kids’ college right away, the compounding returns could really help you save a decent amount.

It’s important to use the right vehicle, and, in my opinion, there’s no better option than the 529.

If you’d like to learn more about paying for college, read this article here. Or if you’re a future or current student that need some finance tips, read this one here.

Be advised: Investments in 529 plans involve risks to principal and may involve additional fees such as enrollment charges and annual maintenance fees. 529 plans offer no guarantees. There are exceptions to the gift tax and estate tax exemptions; please contact a qualified tax, legal, or financial advisor for more information prior to investing.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Why Do Interest Rates Matter?

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I was running through my normal Google alerts yesterday and saw a headline that said, “Do interest rates matter?”

My answer is an emphatic YES!

Of course, interest rates matter. It determines how much you pay and how much you get paid!

When you borrow

Whether you’re talking a mortgage, an auto loan, a business loan, or a credit card, you are charged an interest rate when you borrow money.

For example, the average mortgage rate right now is a shade under 4.5%. In 1981, that same rate got to over 18%. To put these numbers into context, here’s a comparison of the same mortgage with different rates.

Loan amount $250,000. Interest rate 4.5%. 30-year fixed rate. Monthly payment – $1,266.71. Total amount paid after 30 years – $456,015.60.

That same mortgage with an 18% interest rate translates into a $3,767.71 monthly payment, and a total amount paid after 30 years – $1,356,375.60.

Obviously, these are extreme examples, but you get my point.

Just 3 years ago, mortgage rates were a full percentage point lower, until the Federal Reserve started to increase interest rates.

The same goes for credit cards. That 18% mortgage rate from ‘81 is close to the average credit card interest rate today. If you’re using credit cards to buy things you can’t afford, you’re definitely paying for it.

When you save

If you are responsible with your money and are able to save it, you should be rewarded for that behavior. Interest rates are creeping higher now, but a year or two ago you were getting paid next to nothing on your savings account.

When interest rates increase, so does the money you earn from your savings.

The Federal Reserve

The FED sets the tone. They raise or lower the Federal Funds Rate and that has a ripple effect on all the other interest rates in the financial system.

They have a tough job, as you can see currently because they have to raise rates enough to keep inflation at bay but keep them low enough as not to cause a recession.

You see, when the FED raises interest rates, all rates that are classified as variable (on existing debt) go up. The most common example is credit cards. As credit card rates increase, so does the cost of servicing those outstanding balances (minimum payments go up).

As people’s debt gets more expensive to service, the number of defaults (failure to make adequate payments) goes up. This will create a domino effect and can bring the economic system to a halt.

This is similar to what happened in 2008, although on a much larger scale. And 2008 wasn’t caused by frivolous spending, it was caused by finance executives giving mortgages to people who couldn’t afford them, as well as signing poorly structured loans that were affordable in the beginning, but became unaffordable a short while later.

Approaching recession

When The Great Financial Crisis happened, the FED lower interest rates to 0%. This encouraged financial institutions to lend money, and incentivized businesses and individuals to borrow money.

People who borrow, spend, and people who spend help grow the economy.

Here’s our current problem. The Federal Funds Rate is currently at 2.5%. When the economy experiences a recession, in order to encourage borrowing and spending to get the economy out of the recession, the FED needs to cut rates by at least 4 percentage points (I got this number from Dr. James Rickards).

The Trump Administration and other parties are calling for the FED to cut rates to continue the current expansion.

The only problem is this expansion will have to come to an end at some point, and when it does (if rates don’t increase) the FED won’t be able to cut rates enough to help the economy.

Conclusion

I’ll say it again. Interest rates matter.

If you’d like to learn more about this topic and for my disclosures, please visit CRG Financial Services.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

What are UGMA and UTMA accounts?

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What is a UGMA account? What is a UTMA account? How are they different? What is the purpose of using one over other savings vehicles?

We’re going to dive into those questions and a few others in the following piece.

What are they?

The UTMA and the UTMA are custodial accounts. An adult (the custodian) opens an account for the benefit of a minor.

UTMA stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act. UGMA stands for Uniform Gift to Minors Act. The difference has to do with the age of majority, but more on that later.

Characteristics

For all intents and purposes, these accounts are treated the same. As I said, an adult opens the account for the benefit of a minor.

The account itself does not have a limit of how much you can contribute to it, however, there is a gift tax exclusion for the custodian or anyone else that contributes to the account. While I’m here, I should mention that anyone can put money into the account, not just the custodian.

Anyway, the gift tax exclusion is $15,000 per recipient. If the person doing the gifting this amount, they could owe the gift tax.

As far as the age of the majority goes, generally the UGMA is 18 and the UTMA is 21. However, every state is different, so make sure you check to see what the age of majority is in your state.

Prior to the age of majority, the minor is unable to use the funds in the account UNLESS it’s for the benefit of said minor. Once they hit the age of majority, they can use the funds however they want.

Disadvantages

Two of the more common vehicles for education savings are the 529 plan and the Coverdell ESA. Now, I’m not going to go into those two, but they each share one key advantage. Any funds withdrawn for education-related expenses, come out tax-free.

The UTMA/UGMA does not have this capability. What’s more, the taxes on any capital gains made and/or dividends received throughout the year must be paid by the minor.

Also, funds sitting in a UTMA/UGMA, for the sake of the FAFSA, are considered the minor’s assets, and can negatively affect financial aid.

Advantages

There’ve been a lot of negatives so far, and if I’m being honest, there are other savings vehicles available that have more advantages.

The one thing I can think of as an advantage is accessibility.

With the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, any funds not used for education-related expenses are subject to a penalty.

With a UGMA/UTMA, the beneficiary can use the funds for anything that benefits them (while they’re a minor), or they can use them for anything at all once they’ve hit the age of majority.

Conclusion

If you are looking for accounts that are designed around saving for college, then a UTMA/UGMA is not for you. However, if you are looking for an account that is easy to set up, easy to use, and gives you more control, then I definitely would recommend utilizing one.

To make a formal recommendation, I’d go with the UTMA. Again, depending on your state’s rules, this enables you to save more for the beneficiary and prolongs when they can have access to those funds.

If you have any questions about what was said here and for my disclosures, go to my website.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Saving Money With Regular Maintenance

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When was the last time you exercised, had your furnace worked on, or had your oil changed? Performing regular maintenance, in any part of your life, can be quite annoying at times, but it can really make a difference.

The difference can come in the form of money saved, longevity, and/or decreased stress. That said, let’s look into why maintenance is important.

Health

As a nation, the United States is unhealthy. We put junk food into our bodies and lead a sedentary lifestyle that is causing more problems than gaining weight.

Not only is physical exercise good for your body, with benefits like preventing bone loss, increasing muscle strength, improving coordination and balance, and reducing your risk of cardiovascular disease, but it also helps your mind.

Just over half of all Americans are meeting the physical aerobic exercise requirement (Source). The requirement is either 150 minutes of moderate aerobic activity per week or 75 minutes of vigorous aerobic activity per week. Not a lot, right?

Americans spend $3.4 trillion per year on healthcare (Source), and I believe this number could drop dramatically if we all just took better care of ourselves.

Bottom line, regular exercise, and a well-balanced diet can (depending on other genetic risk factors, etc.) can dramatically reduce your long-term healthcare costs.

Home

Regular maintenance of your home has a number of benefits.

  1. It saves you money because all the mechanical components are running optimally. Efficient use of utilities is less expensive. It also increases the longevity of that equipment.
  2. Maximizes your home’s value and resale potential
  3. Peace of mind knowing your home is well-cared for. Stress has negative health effects. Reducing it can improve your health and lower healthcare-related costs.

Car

Keeping your car in optimal running condition will extend its life. It also makes the vehicle more safe to operate because the odds that something breaks while driving is reduced.

A poorly tuned vehicle can use up to 50% more fuel (Source). Spending $50-$100 every three months on an oil change is definitely worth it.

For example, let’s say you fill up once per week at $25. Over a three month period, you’d normally spend $325 on gas. If you’re driving a poorly tuned vehicle, you’ll spend $487.50. Over 1 year, that’s a difference of over $600.

Budget

Creating a budget and regularly checking in to make sure that a) you’re sticking with it and b) it’s still appropriate.

Often when people start budgeting, they find themselves with more money to play with. If they have outstanding debt, they can use that extra money to pay it off.

This could free up more cash that can be used for saving, investing, or getting that cable TV back.

Another thing you should do is cut or eliminate expenses that are otherwise unnecessary. The average American spends almost half of their food budget on eating out (Source).

Investing

This section will revolve around asset allocation and not about picking stocks and the like, specifically, in ones’ retirement plan.

If you have a retirement plan (you really should) my advice is to allocate your assets according to your risk tolerance, time horizon, and comfort level (from a psychological perspective).

If you have a retirement plan through your employer, I strongly recommend utilizing a target-date fund. This takes the worry and the guesswork out of the equation.

Where was I, oh yeah, asset allocation? Unless we’re in a bear market, your stock allocation will do better than your bond allocation.

Over time, the stock part of your portfolio will take up a larger share of your overall portfolio. It’s wise to regularly (though opinions differ) to rebalance back to your original allocation, otherwise, you risk being more aggressive than you intended.

Conclusion

Whether you’re talking about your home, car, or anything else, regular maintenance can save you a lot of money.

Please visit our website to learn more and for our disclosures.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Creating A Financial Plan You Can Stick To

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The more I read and the more I meet with people, the more I realize that setting up a financial plan is more than dollars and cents.

Yes, the better financial plans have your typical items. Save this much, invest in these things, and contribute to this retirement plan.

But the best plans not only have this to take care of your financial needs but they’re also set up in a way that your psychological needs are met as well.

Can you stick with it?

The best plan is anyone that you can stick with. When setting up your plan, go through it slowly. Take each item one step at a time and consider possible scenarios when determining a particular section.

For example, when setting up a plan for your emergency fund, figure out what’s realistic for how much you’ll need and how long it will take you to get there.

Also, figure out how it will be replenished if/when it’s ever used. Perhaps you’ll have an automatic deposit setup indefinitely?

Another thing to keep in mind is including some flexibility in your plan. For example, if part of the process is setting up a budget and your weakness is eating takeout, include a little bit of money for it.

I generally advocate for eating your meals at home, but if it’s inevitable that you’ll go out to eat, it’s better to include a little bit of it, rather than trying to avoid it.

Will you gasp every time the market dips?

Investing is a vital part of your financial plan. Investing is what helps your savings grow, but at times, your investments can lose value.

Our psychology plays a big role in our success as an investor. It’s said that we experience the pain of a loss two times stronger than we experience the joy of a gain.

That said, you need to plan accordingly to keep your emotions in check. If you let them take control of your decisions, you could end up selling your investments after you’ve already lost value, at which point it may be better for you to stay in.

Most investable assets are in a retirement plan of some sort, so your time horizon is, more than likely, long-term. 20+ years for instance. Your risk tolerance is the other part to take into consideration.

How much are you willing to lose until you say, uncle? In a six month period, would you have to sell after you lost 10%, 20%, 30%, or more? Your answer to this will help determine what you are able to stomach.

The next thing to do is to stress test your portfolio. The popular investing/research websites will have this. You plug in your portfolio with dollar amounts and ticker symbols, and then (depending on the site) you can select a variety of scenarios to see how your portfolio would do during that scenario.

The 2008 Financial Crisis is a common one.

Conclusion

Creating a financial plan that has the potential to meet your goals is important, and having a plan that you’re comfortable with and one that will help you sleep at night is optimal.

Make sure, when you are developing your plan, that you are factoring in your behavior as an investor and as a human. We are emotional creatures, and that makes investing a little more difficult.

If you’d like to learn more about what was discussed here and for our disclosures, visit our website.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

How to improve your finances on a low income

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Improving your financial situation is hard for anybody. It can be even more difficult if you have less to work with.

This is an all too common problem in America, as 78% of full-time workers live paycheck to paycheck (Source). Even scarier, 34% don’t have any money saved whatsoever (Source).

That said, there are steps you can take and resources you can utilize to better your financial picture.

Budget

The first and one of the most important things you should do is, create a budget. This is a great way to figure out where you are at. Here are the steps:

  • Write down your expenses for the last few months (month-by-month breakdown)
  • Line items for expenses – housing, utilities, debt, food, transportation, bills, discretionary spending.
  • Write down your monthly income
  • Compare the two numbers to see exactly how much you have left over.

Here’s another way to look at it.

  • Write down your income
  • Write down your necessary expenses (housing, utilities, bills, transportation, food, debt)
  • If there is any left over, do you want to save it, pay down more debt, or have fun with it

If there isn’t any left, you need to figure out how to lower your expenses and make adjustments as needed.

Lower expenses

  • Move closer to work – this should reduce your transportation costs
  • Take public transportation – much less expensive than driving a car
  • Walk or ride a bike – if you live close to work, this could save you tons on commuting costs
  • Move to a less expensive place to live – if you work in a metropolitan area, housing probably isn’t super cheap, look for a cheaper place to live
  • Shop at discount stores
  • Shop at thrift stores
  • Use coupons – Or coupon sites like Coupons.com
  • Use apps – A great list by LifeHack
  • Find a side hustle – Again, solid list on BudgetsareSexy
  • Only buy necessities

Automate

Automating your finances is an important step, though not possible for everyone. If you have a lower income, you may be afraid that the money won’t be in your account for that automatic withdrawal.

Automate what you are comfortable with, or voraciously set reminders. Don’t forget to pay a bill. You can damage your credit score and incur late penalties.

Additionally, having a small transfer from checking to savings once a month can be a great way to save up for emergencies.

Take advantage of social programs

Open a credit card

There’s no denying it, your credit score is important. It determines your interest rate on loans, it can influence where you live, it can even play a factor when applying for a job.

Start small and start slowly. Open up a credit card. Look for one with no annual fee and a great rewards program. Make small, necessary purchases each month and pay them off right away.

Don’t carry a balance month-to-month. Doing this will inevitably cost you money via interest charges. And never miss a payment.

Start an emergency fund

If you don’t have one, set one up today. Having some sort of safety net available is vital. If you don’t have that, you’ll probably charge an emergency expense, which will cost you more money in the long run.

Start small and stay consistent. Contribute a little bit each month or each week to build up that emergency fund.

Get rid of debt

This will have a huge impact on your financial life. Once you are free from debt, you will have more money available for savings, fun money, or for improving your situation in other ways.

There are a few methods to help with debt repayment.

  • Debt avalanche – This method targets high-interest debt. You will pay the minimum to your other debt accounts and pay as much as you can towards your debt with the highest interest. Once that is paid off, you refocus that money towards the debt with the next highest interest
  • Debt snowball – This method targets low-balances. You pay the minimum on your other debts and pay as much as you can on the debt with the lowest balance. Once it’s paid off, you redirect that money towards the next lowest balance.
  • Balance transfer – If you have credit card debt and have a high-interest rate, it may be beneficial to transfer your balance to another card. Many cards have 0% interest, introductory offers on balance transfers.

This will also save you a lot of money on interest payments! Debt is very annoying, and getting rid of it will feel so liberating. Work towards this goal.

Go to the library

There are two ways the library can help you.

One, it’s filled with knowledge. If you want to get a different job, but don’t know much about your target industry, there are resources to help you. If you want to get promoted at your current company, and need to learn about different job roles and responsibilities, you can learn more.

Two, the more time you spend at the library, the less you have to spend at home. You can turn off the heat or air conditioning, and your lights while you are gone. This could drastically lower your utility bill.

Conclusion

One thing I forgot to mention, is the benefit of small rewards. When you are trying to better your financial situation, and are focusing everything on that goal, it can feel discouraging and you can quickly lose motivation.

If you meet a milestone, like paying off a debt account or you cut a balance in half, reward yourself.

Now, don’t go crazy, but a small reward for a job well done can keep you motivated.

You can improve your situation, but it has to be a priority. Do your best to improve a little bit each day. These improvements will compound over time and you’ll be amazed where you stand in a year or two.

If you’d like to learn more about improving your financial situation and for our disclosures, visit www.crgfinancialservices.com.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Are you taking on to much investment risk?

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Investment risk doesn’t apply to only a select few investments, it applies to everything because every investment has its own sets of risk.

Do you know what they are? Are there ways to avoid them, or at least limit how they affect you?

Let’s dive deep into this topic and learn more.

What is investment risk?

I suppose in its simplest form, investment risk is the chance that your investment will lose value.

If you have a stock or a bond, your investment could lose value. If you have cash, inflation could eat away at your purchasing power.

There are many other types of investment risk.

Types of investment risk

  1. Interest rate risk – The chance that an increase or decrease in interest rates could affect your investment. This specifically pertains to fixed income investments, like bonds. Interest rates and price are inversely correlated, so if rates go up prices go down, and vice versa.
  2. Business risk – This involves a particular security. If you are investing in a company’s stock, the chance of them going out of business and you losing some or all of your investment is the risk.
  3. Industry risk – As you can imagine, this relates to an investment within a particular industry. There are industries that are affected as a whole by certain events. If oil prices drop, the energy industry will suffer. If the economy is booming, the consumer staples sector will underperform. If tariffs are levied on steel and aluminum, the automotive and industrials sectors will be negatively affected.
  4. Credit risk – This relates to a debt issuers ability to make good on their obligations. If you invest in a bond that matures in 10 years, you are supposed to receive two payments per year, plus your principal in the tenth year. The chance that, that debt issuer can’t make those interest payments or pay you back the principal is credit risk. I should mention that there is also a risk to stock investors. When a company goes bankrupt, it has to pay back lenders, investors, and others, but there is an order to which people are paid back, and stockholders are last on that list.
  5. Taxability risk – This refers to a municipal bond. If a muni bond is issued with tax-exempt status, the risk is that it could lose that status before maturity.
  6. Call risk – The chance that an investment is called back. A callable bond is the most common example. More often than not, a company will issue and call back a bond if interest rates have lowered. The issuer is refinancing in a sense. They buy the bonds back in order to reissue them at a lower interest rate, and this will cost them less money in the long run. Fear not, however, because you have the added risk of your investment being called away, you are usually compensated with a higher interest rate.
  7. Inflation risk – Essentially, how severely inflation could eat away at the purchasing power of your investment. Cash is most at risk because you are getting zero return and inflation at any level is costing you money. Stocks, historically, are the best investment to outpace inflation.
  8. Liquidity risk – Your ability to sell your investment when you want to. Some investments trade more frequently, thus have higher liquidity. Stocks are a great example of an investment with high liquidity. An investment with low liquidity, depending on the market environment, is real estate, or physical items, such as precious metals, guns, or art.
  9. Market risk – The risk that at any point in time your particular investment, whether it’s stocks, bonds, real estate, gold, etc. will lose value. Prices in all of those investments can and will fall at one point or another, and no amount of diversification can save you from it.
  10. Geopolitical risk – Think war, terrorist acts, tariffs being levied on certain countries or products, etc. Geopolitical risk happens in your country or in other countries that yours is involved with. When 9/11 occurred, the NYSE and NASDAQ closed in anticipation of panic selling. On the first day of trading, the Dow fell 7.1% and closed the week down 14% (source). Heck, just this year the threat of tariffs has put investors on edge and increased volatility.
  11. Currency risk – This usually affects people who have investments or business operations in other countries. If the value of a currency compared to the USD (U.S. Dollar) goes up, that could negatively affect the bottom line for businesses.
  12. Mortality risk – The chance that you will die before fees, premiums, and payments will have been worth it. This usually revolves around insurance products, but could also relate to social security or money you’ve stashed away for retirement through the years. If you worked and saved for 30 years, but passed away in your sixties, and were unable to enjoy the fruits of your labor, that’s mortality risk.

Three asset classes and associated risks

There are many other asset classes and investments available, but these are the three that most people are associated with.

  • Stocks – Market risk, business risk, industry risk, credit risk, geopolitical risk.
  • Bonds – Market risk, business risk, industry risk, credit risk, geopolitical risk, inflation risk, interest rate risk.
  • Cash – Inflation risk

Diversification

Though not all risk can be diversified away, and you will take on some risk in every investment, no matter how careful you are, it’s important to diversify.

Each asset class and each investment have its own unique risks. In any portfolio, it’s important to diversify between stocks, bonds, real estate, cash, physical assets, and geographic location.

The allocation to each set of assets will vary depending on your risk tolerance. Traditionally, stocks are the riskiest of these but offer the most reward, then bonds, and then cash. Holding real estate and physical assets, like gold is just another way to diversify your assets. Gold, however, is usually a good investment to have when the market tanks, as it’s often referred to as a safe haven asset.

With regard to geographic location, the U.S. is only one-quarter of global GDP (source) and the U.S. stock market is only 43% of global market value (source) so you’d be silly not to invest money in other countries. Besides, if the U.S. market/economy tanks, not every country will follow.

Read more about diversification, here.

Conclusion

Investment risk is unavoidable, and depending on what type of asset you own, you may have more or less risk. The one thing you can do to help protect yourself it to diversify.

To learn more about investment risk, diversification, and our disclosures, visit www.crgfinancialservices.com.

Diversification seeks to reduce the volatility of a portfolio by investing in a variety of asset classes. Neither asset allocation nor diversification guarantee against market loss or greater or more consistent returns

 

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Ways to Increase your Wealth

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Wealth, what is it? In a sense, it’s your net worth. Net worth is your assets minus your liabilities.

For a comfortable retirement, you’ll want to see that number tick upwards over the course of your working career.

But how to do you increase your wealth? Are there certain strategies that work better than others?

Let’s take a deep dive into some strategies for growing your wealth.

Decrease Expenses

You want to increase your wealth, decrease your expenses. I can probably list several things you’re wasting money on.

  1. Restaurant food
  2. Drinks at the bar
  3. Cable
  4. Movies at the theater
  5. Interest rate charges
  6. Transportation
  7. Clothing
  8. Frivolous purchases

It’s easy to reduce costs here. Restaurant food and bars – stop going out so much. Cable – cut the cord and sign up for Netflix, Hulu, or go to the library.

Movies at the theater – buy the movie or rent it from the library. Interest rate charges – negotiate your rate, use a balance transfer, or eliminate your debt.

Transportation – use public transport, walk, or ride your bike. Frivolous purchases – wait at least a day before you decide to buy.

Earn More

Ask for a raise, bust your butt to earn a promotion, which usually translates to higher pay, start a side hustle, become a freelancer, etc. There are several ways available to increase your earning power:

  • Drive for Uber or Lyft
  • Become a Tasker on TaskRabbit
  • Get paid for your skills – UpWork or Fiverr
  • Here’s a list of the most popular side hustles – Budgets are Sexy.

Real Estate

Real estate is a great way to increase your wealth. One of the more popular ways to do this is through rental properties.

Do your homework when looking for properties, you’ll want to look at:

  1. Location
  2. School district
  3. Real estate valuation
  4. Property taxes
  5. Community amenities
  6. Current listings and vacancies
  7. Natural disasters

If you find a good property, plan for a 20% down payment to avoid PMI. Once the rent starts flowing, you’ll find your wealth will climb. As you pay down the mortgage, the equity will increase, giving you more assets than liabilities.

Pay down debt

Debt is the number 1 detractor from building wealth. Not only does it prevent you from saving, investing, and/or acquiring assets, but you’re probably wasting money on interest payments.

You need to do what you can to get rid of your debt so you can start building wealth. As you pay off your debt, your wealth will increase because you will reduce your liabilities, which makes your net worth (aka wealth) go up.

In a general sense, there are five ways to help reduce your debt

  1. Debt snowball – Payoff your lowest balance first. Pay the minimum to all of your other balances and pay the most you can towards your smallest balance. Once that balance is paid off, redirect that money to the next lowest balance, and so on.
  2. Debt avalanche – Pay down your highest interest debt first. Pay the minimum to all of your other balances and pay the most you can towards your highest interest debt. Once that is paid off, redirect that money to your next highest balance.
  3. Balance transfer – There are many credit card companies that will offer an interest-free balance transfer. Take advantage of this if you have a credit card balance with a very high interest rate. This will save a lot of money on interest payments.
  4. Personal loan – Usually for credit card consolidation. Most credit card interest rates are crazy high. You get a personal loan to effectively lower your average interest rate. This will only work for you if you have decent credit, however, so do your homework.
  5. Refinance – This applies to students loan and mortgages (well really any loan, but these are the most common). You refinance to lower your interest rate, and sometimes (as is the case with student loans) to consolidate.

Increase your savings rate

A very common problem in this country is that people aren’t saving enough. The average savings rate in the U.S. is around 3% (source). That is a far cry from what people really need to save.

So what we have to do is increase our savings incrementally. Start with the highest percentage of your income you can possibly save. If that 1% that’s fine. If it’s 10%, that’s fine too. Just do what you can.

From there, we will take a few months to get used to that extra 1% or 10% not being there. Once you are familiar with less money, bump that percentage up 1. And once you get used to that, bump it up again.

The key is to make small positive changes for a lifetime. A small change each day or week for the rest of your life? You’ll see HUGE results from this.

Utilize retirement accounts

Retirement accounts are awesome. It’s a very effective way to save for retirement.

Plans for individuals – Traditional IRA and Roth IRA (Here to learn more about these)

Plans for businesses – 401(k) and SIMPLE IRA are the two most common. (Learn more here and here).

All four of these vehicles give your retirement savings the ability to grow tax-deferred. Meaning you don’t pay taxes while the money is inside the account. Additionally, three of these four could help lower your taxable income.

The two business plans are contributed to with pre-tax money. More money in the retirement account means less being taxes. The traditional IRA is contributed to with post-tax money, but you could receive a tax-deduction IF you qualify.

Roth IRA you use post-tax money, don’t receive a deduction or a reduction in taxable income, BUT your withdrawals will be tax-free.

Please look at those links for all the information and rules for each plan.

Develop a “delayed gratification” mindset

Having a delayed gratification mindset is so important when planning for your future. Our default behavior is to do the things that make us feel good right now, but it’s almost always in our best interest to delay that good feeling for a better one down the road.

You want that ice cream cone, but it will be more beneficial to your future self if you forego it and eat something healthy instead. You’d like to buy a new video game, but it would behoove you to buy a book, a course, or invest it.

Improve Financial Literacy

If you want to grow your wealth, you have to know what you are doing. Learn about budgets, retirement plans, and investing. Learn about assets and liabilities, and the various ways you can make money work for you.

If you know how things work, it’ll make it easier for you to follow through.

Automate

Automation can play a vital role in your quest for growing your wealth. Set your bills to auto-pay. This allows you to focus on more important things.

Also, automate your savings. Have it done right away so you don’t have the opportunity to spend it. Go next level with this and set your savings to automatically increase every so often. You’ll save more without even having to think about it.

Invest in yourself

Ben Franklin once said, “An investment in knowledge pays the best interest.” If you want to get promoted at work, get paid more for your skills, or just want to improve your life, invest in yourself.

Read books, take courses, listen to podcasts, watch YouTube videos, or find a mentor.

There is so much knowledge out there and there are so many opportunities to improve your life. Take the initiative and go get it!

Conclusion

Growing your wealth can be a challenging endeavor, but by using many of these tips, you can be on your way to making some very positive changes.

To learn more about growing your wealth and for our disclosures, visit www.crgfinancailservices.com.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.