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How To Increase Your Yield Through Microloans

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Sometimes it takes a little creativity to reach your destination.

The world economy continues to slowly gain traction but many cash investors aren’t seeing that translate to increased yield in their short and mid-term cash investments.  According to Bankrate.com, the average yield for a $10,000 money market investment was a paltry 0.52%.  That’s a whopping $52 per year, excluding any fees or costs, and definitely excluding inflation.  Last year, the Social Security Administration increased retiree benefits by 1.7% to offset increasing costs.  Based on that inflation adjustment, investors are losing purchasing power each and every year by doing what at first glance appears to be the right thing: investing in a reliable money market account.

Imagine an investment that guarantees you’re going to lose money – that’s what a traditional cash reserve is doing today. That’s why so many bloggers lately question the need for an emergency fund at all. Don’t fall into that trap.

Microloans: A Primer

Microloans are very small loans made to borrowers who typically lack collateral to support the loan.  Sometimes, microloans are also made to those who don’t have steady employment or even verifiable credit.   There are two well-known microloan organizations – serving a completely different market. The most well known peer-to-peer lender is Prosper.com.  They have over 1.6 million customers and have funded over $400 million in loans to their members.  Prosper.com helps connect borrowers who have reasonable credit with lenders who are trying to earn a higher return on their money.  The other micro-lending site is Kiva.  They primarily help people and families across the world to “create opportunity and alleviate poverty.”  Between the two, Kiva seems altruistic, whereas Prosper seems more capitalistic.

How To Earn Money

While both Kiva and Prosper offer the opportunity to lend money to whomever you wish (and for whatever purpose you wish), Prosper created a system to help those who want to use Prosper as an investing tool.  On their website, they breakdown all the financial metrics for the different types of loan ratings.  Prosper also provides advice on how to create a “diversified” portfolio of microloans.  (Diversification is important when investing in loans – some are going to default!)

Returns on these investments are beyond enticing – Prosper’s best members, those they rate AA – have an average credit score of 808 (well above the national average).  Those AA loans have a historical loss rate of 1.70% – but have an average return of 5.50%!  That’s leaps and bounds above our Money Market rate listed above.  The lowest rated Prosper members (credit score 683) have a 14% loss rate and a 13.29% average return.  A well-diversified portfolio of Prosper loans could make an attractive portfolio.

It’s Not All Roses

This may seem like a great “fire-and-forget mission” and in some ways it is, but there are some things you’ll need to recognize before you invest in microloans at a place like Prosper.  First, the loans are three years long, and there’s no way to get your money back early if you truly need it.  Secondly, you will experience some defaults.  As I mentioned above, even the highest rated consumers still default.  You need to realize you’re becoming the bank!  Prosper recognizes that their traditional model doesn’t suit everyone, so they have created their Prosper Trade Notes program, but even that comes with it’s own long list of pros and cons.

Sum It Up

If you have some extra cash reserves – money that you know you aren’t going to use for at least three years – Prosper.com could be a viable solution to increase your yield.  If you want to loan money for a more altruistic purpose, consider Kiva.  Both of them serve a specific purpose, but Prosper has a greater chance to provide a consistent income stream for the investor.

Photo: Philip Taylor PT

Investing Myths: Four Traps That Catch Amateurs

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Why do so many do-it-yourself investors perform far worse than they should? How do you make sure and avoid some of the potholes that most amateurs seem to step in?

In theory, people managing their own funds should do well. Today’s investor has access to more tools, more research, and more information than ever before.  You can easily view data in near-real time, putting the average person on par with professional brokers and large brokerage businesses on Wall Street.  It’s easy to track company performance, get up-to-date and late breaking information just by opening an app on your phone.  What a world!

But, with all this information available, you’ll need to filter out truisms, half-truths and outdated ideas. Managing your own money isn’t tough, but it’s easy to fall into traps.

Let’ s walk through some top myths today’s investors need to realize aren’t true anymore.

First, a diamond may mean forever, but buy and hold isn’t.  You shouldn’t just buy a stock and close your eyes.  Occasionally, good companies have badly performing stocks.  Instead of “buy and hold” investors should “buy and pay attention.”  You should carefully select your positions based on the information at hand, but be sure to have a well-thought out exit plan before you buy the stock.

Second, performance isn’t the only thing that matters….and I’m not just saying that because I’m a guy. Historical performance is worth noting, but it’s not, as they say, indicative of future performance.  We do believe, however, that performance does persist – there is investment momentum.  What matters more than past performance? Simply put, volatility, tax considerations and overall asset allocation should be equally considered. It’s paramount to create a portfolio that compliments your long-term investing goals. Remember that the ones that shoot up fast are also the ones that crash quickly. Volatility is a two way street.

Listen to ways your investments could be more successful on our podcast: 2 Guys & Your Money Episode 15: Top 5 Ways to Improve Your Investment Returns

Third, charts don’t only make sense for professionals.  Some people believe only “technical traders” use charts or that they’re somehow outdated relics from a bygone era.  Not true.  Charts can tell investors a great deal about what’s going on in the markets and with any particular holding.  Charts aren’t crystal balls – but they can help you manage risk. How much volatility has a position had in the past? How does today’s price compare with past prices? When does the position pay dividends? How has this position grown relative to its peers? All of these are easily answered by reviewing a few charts.

Finally, don’t try to always buy at the bottom.  This one’s really dangerous.  How do you know it’s the bottom?  Investors are egotistical beasts; we think that because it looks like the stock/bond/real estate/whatever is going to turn around, our few dollars are boing to be perfectly placed. We’ve seen investors buy stocks at $10 that once were $100, only to find out that they were not even close to the bottom.  Remember two things: 1) you’re nobody in the market, and your brain is too small to call the bottom of the market (sorry if that offends you); and 2) investment prices fall for a reason. If a position is “on sale,” it’s important to know why it’s fell before you make a bet that it will rise again from the ashes. The person who buys a stock that’s near its yearly low is betting their purchase is going to be the reason it turns around.  Unless you’re Warren Buffet, I wouldn’t be too sure.

The biggest rule when it comes to investing is not to try to ”win big” but rather “lose small.”  Manage and know your risk before establishing a position and you’ll go a long way toward becoming a more successful investor.

Old Savings Bonds Might Be Your Most Valuable Investment

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It’s Thursday. I’m grabbin’ some coffee while OG takes the driver’s seat….

Recently, a client emailed me a peculiar list of dollar amounts and dates. Each was followed by a one or two letter symbol.

What the heck?

Finally the lightbulb went off – this was a list of US Savings Bonds we’d discussed months earlier that she’d “found” in her safety deposit box. Her question: What to do with all those bonds?  Cash them in?  Keep them?

 

The Savings Bond Conundrum

 

Clients raise this question at least once every couple months – and I’ll bet as more and more baby-boomers head into retirement the frequency is only going to increase.  For some reason, people seem to think analyzing savings bond interest is a complicated financial problem that only the best advisors can solve.  Nothing could be further from the truth – let me show you exactly how I determine whether to keep or cash in each bond.

Small Numbers of Bonds

If you own only a few bonds, I’d recommend using the US Treasury’s savings bond calculator. This tool helps you  quickly estimate the value, interest accumulated, yield, next interest payment date, and final payment date.  All you’ll need is the issue type (E, EE, or I), face amount, and the month and year.  All of that information is found on the face of the bond.

Lots of Bonds?

If you’re the Donald Trump of savings bonds, or if you want to track the bond’s value over longer periods, you should download the government’s Savings Bond Wizard tool found at http://www.treasurydirect.gov/indiv/tools/tools_savingsbondwizard.htm.  The Savings Bond Wizard allows you to save the file and refresh it each month with the most updated values. Here you can store information about each of your bonds and easily compare interest rates and the total value of your savings bond empire.

Is Your Bond Still Making Money?

Here’s a tip: don’t hold on to bonds that no longer pay interest.

After thirty years, US Savings Bonds mature and the government shuts you off like a disinherited trust fund baby.  Most bonds reach their face value somewhere between 12 and 15 years after issue and continue to pay interest until year 30.

It’s foolish to keep a bond past 30 years.  Don’t do it.

One client brought in a savings bond that stopped paying interest before Kennedy was president! Imagine how much money that’s cost him.

 

The Moment of Truth

After you’ve used all of your fingers and toes (AND one and a half neighbors’ fingers and toes) to determined whether or not it’s still paying interest (let’s assume it is), now it’s judgment time:

Can you invest the proceeds at a better rate of return than you’re receiving from the government?  

The yield on your savings bond is risk free.  Those two words are hard to beat.  I’ve seen bonds from the 80’s paying 6%. Can’t beat that. I’d keep those.

Final Step

Set a reminder to review your bonds again a few years down the line.  If you have a bond or two that you’d like to redeem, schedule it in advance.  Don’t forfeit interest because you procrastinated.  Keep an updated bond inventory and review it periodically just as you would any other part of your portfolio.

Savings bonds are one of the best ways to lock in guaranteed interest – especially if you have some from ten or twenty years ago.  Many clients are surprised when I tell them to keep their bonds; sometimes it’s in their best interest to do so!  Many times people think savings bonds are a waste of time and money. My take:  In today’s low interest rate environment yesterday’s bonds may just be a gold mine.

My Experience in Landlording 101, or I’m Not Donald Trump

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I’ve been renovating my rental property this week and haven’t had enough time to pick a Blog Post of the Week! Instead, you get obscure ramblings from an over-caffeinated blogger….I’ll have a Blog Post of the Week! again next week for you. Have a great weekend!

I Never Wanted To Be A Landlord

When I was an advisor, I’d hear horror stories from my clients with tenants. Early on I learned that I probably didn’t have the stomach for some of the negotiation and strong-arming that it takes to work with tenants. I prefer REITs for my real estate exposure.

But, after my home didn’t sell when we moved to Texas, I realized that I had two choices: short sale or try my hand at tenants. I opted for choice #2. I wasn’t completely green. I’d read extensively about landlord/tenant contracts, strategies and tactics so I could be useful to clients. While “fun” might not be the right word, it’d be educational to try it first hand.

The surprise? I didn’t know how much I’d like it.

I’m no Donald Trump and am still too much of a pushover. I want to be a little more callous with my tenants because they realize they can get away with stuff (and do). An example: my tenant the last three years was late with her rent EVERY MONTH. The good news is that I wrote a $100 late fee into the contract, which she gladly paid EVERY MONTH. I got used to her checks two weeks late and came to enjoy the $1,200 extra income from her.

Lessons Learned From Landlording

Is landlording a word? Probably not (Pages doesn’t think so….), but I’m running with it. That’s the kind of rebel I am.

  1. Don’t rent a furnished place unless you’re okay with everything being ruined OR you write penalties into the contract. None of our furniture matched our new house (of course, that would be made too much sense….), so we left most of the furniture there. My tenant, a school teacher, was excited about getting a home with nice stuff. Imagine my surprise three years later when my sofa, living room chair and desk were all destroyed. She apologized a ton, but no cash exchanged hands.
  2. Bolster your reserves or keep credit handy for surprises. We had a water leak, tree fall down, bathroom fan breakdown and flooding in the basement. If I didn’t have a reserve, there would have been trouble.
  3. Either live close to your rental or find reliable help. There are many people who will collect rent, fix up the house or manage the property, but most aren’t very good (according to my clients who were in real estate). You need great help or have to do as much work as possible yourself. I live halfway across the country from my rental, but have a great handyman, Dave, who is a quick call away, charges reasonable fees and responds lightening fast. To make sure he’s happy, I pay him the SECOND his bill arrives (that’s overstatement, but you know what I mean).
  4. Try to complete each “fix it” project yourself at least once, even if you’re going to find help.
  5. Remember that it’s a relationship with your tenant. My main goal is to have my tenant stay in the house. I’ve tried to make sure the house is well-maintained and I’m accessible so my tenant stays around. That said, I also need to keep up with economics. I’ve looked at rental prices in the area and raised the rent once in the past three years. I was poised to raise it again before I found out she had to move out (through no fault of mine…her son wants her to stay in his house while he’s away on business for two years. I can’t beat “free rent.”)

Are you a landlord? Have you rented from a good or bad landlord? Share your success or horror stories in the comments!

Photos: For Rent: Charleston’s The Digitel

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High Yield vs. Other Investing Categories in Pretty Pictures

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When words don’t work, I’ll emulate my buddy PK at the DQYDJ blog and resort to graphics when explaining your investing options. Since I can’t personally be bothered to create any type of creative chart, I’ll instead use a graph that I  received from a friend.

Before we peruse this particular investing chart, I should introduce it, like a big star explains the movie clip:

People worry often about risk when investing. You should. It doesn’t make sense to risk your portfolio without knowing what type of return you’ll receive.

As an example, one of the riskiest investment classes is art. I know and you know that your dogs-playing-poker is probably a timeless classic, but beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder on that one. Unfortunately, if you paid $10k for your Velvet-Elvis-and-the-Eagle rug, that’s probably considered a capital loss.

Here is the risk/reward profile of high yield vs. other asset classes:

 

Chart of Risk and Return

 

People are generally shocked when they see the risk/reward profile of high yield bonds. Is it true that JUNK BONDS are significantly less volatile than large-cap stocks?

Yup.

High yield bonds aren’t much more volatile than 10-year treasuries (which, ironically, have been more volatile than investment-grade bonds)?

Yup again. I knew people who came to this website are flippin’ brilliant.

Maybe now is a good time to review my posts last week on the topic of high yield bonds:

Off topic: Check out German stocks. Lots of volatility, plus those people wear black socks with sandals. I don’t know what those two points put together says, but it sure feels awkward.

 

How about you? Does this chart surprise you? Can you see my love affair with high yield? Make you laugh? Improve your outlook on life?

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How I Chose My High Yield Bond Fund

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Last week I described the ultra-thrilling process of how high yield bond funds work. The reason I penned that particular post was simple. I was in the process of buying one.

In today’s entry, lets look “over my shoulder” to see the method I used to pick my new fund. Many people don’t get to see how someone with 16 years of professional experience chooses an investment in their portfolio. Choosing a high yield mutual fund is a little like exploring through a wasteland of worthless investments (as you’ll soon see), and I think there’s a few crucial basics beginners can learn from my adventure.

Why? Like reading a map, you’re going to be surprised by how straightforward and simple the process is. Buying funds isn’t complicated and you too can find a good mutual fund within minutes while feeling comfortable that you performed adequate due diligence.

The key part of the process is spending some good time with the map first. If you know what you’re looking for, exploring for the fund is the easy part.

Leading up to choosing a fund, I determined the following:

  1. I knew my end goal. I wasn’t just throwing money in the general direction of my problems or praying for high returns. I didn’t use a “more is better” approach. That usually lands investors in an ugly spot, when their greed turns profits to huge losses. I was looking for retirement, and needed to maintain at least a 6 percent return to get there.
  2. I had already determined my asset mix to reach my goal. On our podcast and in previous posts, I’ve discussed finding the appropriate diversified asset mix for your goals. Mine included high yield bonds, mostly because they have a history of achieving my target return.
  3. I knew how much money I needed in high yield bonds to meet my goal. Normally, I’m not a fan of mutual funds. But, because it was a small amount and a manager can oversee the process of avoiding defaults, I decided one mutual fund would do the trick. For more sizable chunks, I’d hire multiple managers or switch from a mutual fund to individual bonds.

Why is it important to determine these three criteria first?

Like deciding which size ice cream cone you’re getting, it’s best to look at your current situation, or waistline, first. Plus, there’s another, overreaching reason:

I’m lazy.

Could you imagine the horror of searching through a gazillion mutual funds in a trillion different asset classes to find the one that fit my needs? Why would I spend countless hours oogling different investments I’ll never buy. I want to narrow the search as much as possible before investing. Why waste all that time I could be watching Cake Boss or Millionaire Matchmaker sorting through countless asset classes that I’ll never use?

I’m not going to waste time searching for investments. I’ll figure out the map first and then choose the right vehicle to get me to my goal.

…and that, class, is how we reached this point: choosing the vehicle.

Let’s begin.

My search began at TD Ameritrade. That’s because the IRA holding the cash I was going to use is housed there. If you’re not familiar with IRA custodians, you have a choice between many different places. Some decide on a bank, others a financial brokerage firm. I chose TD Ameritrade because I’m comfortable choosing investments alone but appreciate their stock and bond tools. They aren’t the cheapest provider, but I’m comfortable with the fee structure.

Fees

 

Just like a trip to the grocery store, every asset search begins with a discussion of “how much is this going to cost.” In many cases, I don’t want a mutual fund at all because they’re expensive, but in the high yield asset class, I want one. I don’t want to guess if one of the companies I own is going to go bankrupt. I also don’t want to do the homework necessary to avoid picking a loser (remember the lazy part above?).

Some mutual funds manage your cash for a reasonable fee, while others might as well be carrying a gun and wearing a mask.

But they’re not the only robbers.

It turns out that TD Ameritrade also is in on the “let’s gouge our customer” game. They’ve forged deals with some fund companies to offer their mutual funds at a lower cost. To tell you just how much lower, I was originally eyeing a Pioneer high yield offering. Imagine my surprise when I found out that I’d have to pay $49 when I bought AND AGAIN when I sold. Ouch.

As an aside, why not just round this ridiculous fee to $50? Wouldn’t anyone dumb enough to pay $49 shrug at a dollar more? If they want to play the psychological game make it $49.99. They’re leaving $10 on the table. I should work for TD Ameritrade…..

 

Screening: Expenses

 

So, armed with the list of funds that are available on my platform, I visit TD Ameritrade’s mutual fund screener site. There are many of these all over the web. The Wall Street Journal has a good one, as do Morningstar, Yahoo and MSN.

I used TD Ameritrade’s own screener for one reason. The first screen for me should be called “funds that avoid the ridiculous fee.” Because that’s too obvious, they named it, “No trading cost fund list.”

Screening: Manager

 

The second screen is for manager. If I have a manager at all, I want one who’s a little seasoned, but different than most investors, I also don’t want one who’s crusty. A fund manager nearing retirement might be milking her reputation at this point. Well-known managers such as Bill Gross at PIMCO are going to survive a couple down years with their portfolio if they decide to take a mental vacation at this point in the game. I don’t want that person.

I want them hungry.

There is no “avoid managers who have been around too long” screen, so I’m stuck using one based on minimum tenure. I don’t want one with less than three years in the saddle, personally, so I choose that screen.

Screening: Star Rating

Like I said, I’m lazy. I want Morningstar to do most of the heavy lifting for me. Although I’m smart enough to know that many lower-ranked funds could do well next year, I don’t have the time to search through them all.

In other areas, where I’m looking for more than a consistent dividend check and a fairly stable value, I might screen for more complex areas. In high yield, that’s it.

I press the “search” button.

Examining the List.

Now I feel like a kid in a candy store. Laid out in front of me is a shortened list of candidates for the title of “good enough to examine up-close.”

My attention now turns to fund evaluation company Morningstar, where I’m going to dig into each fund in detail.

I’m particularly interested in:

  • how each fund performed against it’s competitors,
  • what the dividend looks like, and
  • how the fund is managed.

I dig into these areas quickly. Simple internet searches lead me to mines of information. I’m too lazy to waste time flipping through funds, but when I’ve found my potential targets, I dig in like a rib-lover at the barbeque cook-off.

What Did I Choose?

Ultimately, the USAA High Income Fund won the day.

Why?

For an average fee of .90%, the dividend to me approaches 7% (6.93% as of this writing). The fund manager, R. Matthew Freund, has 21 years of experience (with USAA since 1994), so is mature yet not quite at retirement age. There’s been a co-manager named Julianne Bass since 2007, so there is younger blood overseeing day-to-day operations as well.

The fund has beaten the high yield sector over the past five years, but not by a ton. For the most part this fund’s performance has been slightly above or below the index. When it’s missed, it missed well above its asset category. It hasn’t had a major hiccup.

At this point, I like to guess what I’d rank the fund. I’d give it four stars out of five. It’s a winner, but not a thoroughbred. It won’t be the “hot thing” anytime soon. Perfect for this job.

Morningstar agrees, rating the fund four stars out of five. It’s an above average competitor with average fees and solid management.

Perfect. Often five star funds attract scads of assets, forcing me to look elsewhere as the management can’t invest all of the cash it’s attracted. I’m less concerned with the management of the fund over the past five years as I am over the next five. Because this fund isn’t meant to be the “go baby go” part of my portfolio, I’m fine with boring. In fact, I expect it and hope for it. Let’s get my 7% return so I can focus my energy elsewhere.

That’s how I picked the fund.

Complex? Nope.

I’d be willing to bet that this little 1000 word example is more homework than 95 percent of people complete when choosing investments. Even if a professional picks funds for you, there should be a list of screens you use to oversee picks.

It’s your portfolio. Take charge. It isn’t difficult.

(photo credit: Statue, Eusebius, Flickr;

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High Yield Bond Investing for Beginners

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Imagine investing in a fund that built bigger and bigger dividends until you were ready to use them. Sound good?

I’ve always been a fan of high yield bonds as an asset class for this reason. My clients and I earned solid results by investing in these products.

Today, boys and girls, we’ll explain what a high yield bond is, how it reacts to different pressures and the method I’d recommend to buy a high yield bond if I were a beginner.

 

What is a High Yield Bond?

 

Let’s begin with the word “bond.”

Most people are comfortable with the idea of a stock. If you own stock in a company, congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a piece of that firm. How will you make money? Like any company owner, you’ll generally come out ahead as the company’s business prospects improve. If the company takes a downturn, you could stand to lose your entire investment.

A bond is better for people who don’t want that roller coaster ride. Instead, bond holders are more comfortable loaning a company money. The company gives you specific terms (for example: five years at a six percent interest rate), and you agree to loan them the money.

In essence, you aren’t a company owner. You’re Louie the Loan Shark. Sweet!

How Do I Decide Which Bond to Buy?

 

Well, Louie the Loanshark, what’s the first question you’re going to ask if you’re loaning someone money?

That one’s easy: How likely is it that I’ll get my money back?

In the case of High Yield bonds, it’s pretty shaky. If these companies were regular people, they’d be the type that’ve had their American Express Card taken away and their house payment is two months behind.

When I said Loan Shark, I meant it.

So, when you see bad credit, what do you do? You jack up the interest rate. If I’m going to risk my money, I’m going to need to see a good return. High yield bonds are the highest returning bond type on the market. You’ll receive much higher returns than any other type of bond because you’re taking more risk.

High yield bonds used to be called junk bonds. To dress up the category, somebody decided “high yield” was a prettier name. I’d agree.

 

Is This Category Too Risky For Me?

 

Maybe. It depends on your goals. But let’s mitigate the risk of buying a single bond.

If you’re a new investor, I wouldn’t try to purchase an individual bond (loan money to one company). Frankly, the risks in that arena are too high for a beginner, unless you’re completely open to the risk of losing all of your capital.

In this case, I prefer a mutual fund. With a fund you have humans buying and selling positions on the open market. Fund managers diversify the portfolio like an ETF would, but also can sell when a certain company starts to turn for the worse. You don’t want to worry about that.

 

Let’s Talk About Performance and the Dividend

 

In high yield bond funds the dividend usually is classified as interest, so this asset class is best used in your tax sheltered plan (RRSP or IRA).

First, you can expect the value of your fund to fluctuate. With a high yield bond fund, I’ve always considered this the roll of the ocean. If I still own the shares  and they’re pumping out a dividend, I have one goal: make that dividend grow.

Therefore, I reinvest dividends.

That purchases more shares, which I reinvest in the mutual fund. I’m always looking at the size of my dividend payment that’s reinvested and asking “is it large enough to supplement my income yet?” Until it is, I continue to reinvest.

One of my clients pretended the dividend was a little man who worked alongside him each month. Every dividend would head back into the factory to help make the next payment a larger amount.

 

Popular High Yield Bond Investor Questions

 

How much should I invest?

With any investment, you begin by finding the return you need to meet your goal. For some investors, high yield bonds will be too risky for their portfolio. For others, they’ll need growth in their portfolio and high yield will rarely give you huge returns.

How risky is a high yield bond fund?

I present the risks of a high yield bond as “high” because I want investors to understand the risk versus other bonds. However, on a long-term risk/reward pyramid, high yield bonds are less risky than large cap stocks. If you’re comfortable investing in stocks, a high yield bond mutual fund historically has been less risky.

If I Don’t Have an IRA or RRSP Should I Still Invest?

I prefer to use tax advantaged investments outside of a tax shelter and tax-creating assets inside of shelters. High yield bonds are heavily taxed when compared to other asset classes that earn a similar return. You can use a high yield bond mutual fund outside of a tax shelter, but realize you’ll pay more tax than you will with many other investment classes.

How to I Find a Good High Yield Bond Mutual Fund?

Read our pieces on using Morningstar to find good funds:

Part I: Researching Mutual Funds (or how to cure insomnia)

Part II: Evaluate a Mutual Fund in 10 Minutes

 

Not only will you see past performance, but this website will tell you about fees and how much you’ll need to invest to meet fund minimums.

 

(Photo Credit: Payday Loan Store, Swanksalot, Flickr; Loan Shark, Jesse Wagstaff, Flickr)

 

Okay, that’s my story. Do you use high yield in your portfolio? Are there criteria or tools you use to choose high yield bonds that are appropriate for a new investor that weren’t presented here? We’d love to hear them.

Facebook and Zynga IPOs – Should You Buy?

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We’ve all felt the magnetic pull of an IPO. The roaring 90’s come back to us. Why am I a blogger? I could invest in an IPO and be knee-deep in a Carribean island swimming pool holding a margarita the size of my face. Then again, I wouldn’t hold the margarita. I’d hire someone else to hold it.

So…the upcoming Facebook and Zynga IPOs – Should You Get In or Stay Out?

IPOs (initial public offering) seem to have lost a little of their luster over the past decade or so, but nevertheless everyone still turns their heads when a “big name” walks by and announces an IPO. Earlier this year it was the Groupon IPO, last year it was the “new” General Motors.

When a company announces their IPO, many people want “in” – it’s easy to see why: who among us hasn’t asked (at least to themselves, if not aloud) I wonder what would’ve happened if…

• I would’ve bought Microsoft in the 1980s;
• I would’ve bought Apple when Steve Jobs came back on board;
• I would’ve bought Google at $85/share…

As a financial advisor, my goal is to make sure my clients don’t “should” all over themselves.

(OK sidebar: If you didn’t laugh at that last sentence, you really need to read it out loud. Go ahead…get it? “Should” on one’s self? I can’t believe my comedy career never took off…okay….back to our regularly scheduled programming)

It tempts you because it seems like easy money. Who doesn’t like to live in fantasy land for a few minutes each day? My fantasy investment purchase? Greek debt insurance 2 years ago. That’s some serious jenga. But I digress.

So, here’s the deal with IPOs and why they’re not your best option:

1. Unless you have an “in” (think: your brother works for Facebook) you’re not gonna get any IPO shares

This means that if you try to buy into the Facebook IPO the day it opens, you won’t receive the IPO price (which is what everyone will talk about on CNBC). You’ll purchase your shares at a different–and often much higher–cost.

2. They don’t usually make money – at least not right away:

Image representing Zynga as depicted in CrunchBase

Image via CrunchBase

Like visions of gold, we conveniently remember IPO “winners” like Google or Amazon. We block out the long, tired stack of losers. Remember Pets.com? How about Vonage…they aren’t dead, but that IPO was a mess. eToys? Amazon.com, a mammoth stock by today’s standards, IPO’d in mid-1997…and didn’t make any percentage gains for several months. Google’s IPO occurred in 2004. The stock experienced a big spike, and then lay flat for 6 months. Often, IPOs don’t pay off for years, even when they’re winners like Google or Amazon.

3. The people who make the real money? The CEO, executive team and investment bankers. This is a big cha ching! event for them.

The Blackstone Group, a private equity and asset management firm, announced in 2007 announced they were going public. The issue drew so much attention that no one really paid any attention to the prospectus.

Why does it matter?

Well, it turns out that The Blackstone Group IPO launch only included “part” of their business (not that part that made money, mind you). After all the shares were gobbled up and the CEO and investment bankers off-loaded their shares (the CEO made $2.6 Billion–lovin’ the capital “B”), any gullible shareholders were stuck with a 42% loss in the first 12 months.  Here’s a great book discussing the lengths at which dirty CEO’s will go to cover their fraud.

Here’s our thoughts:

If you want to own a “cool new shiny Zynga IPO”, but don’t want to do the homework involved with reading the prospectus or making friends with an employee to get the “insider” price, buy a mutual fund in that same space. If it’s as awesome as you think, the fund manager will buy some (probably at the actual Zynga IPO price) and you’ll own some by proxy. If it’s a sham, the fund manager, who has a thousand times more resources than you, will probably pass – allowing you the easy way to decide whether to pass as well.

Plus, really, do you think it’s a good idea to put every dollar you own in Zynga shares–even if you could? What’s the best that could happen? Your money could double? Triple?

Sure. But what’s the risk?

We’re curious about your opinion. What do you think about the Facebook or Zynga IPO? Are you buying the hype?

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Exchange Traded Fund: A Low Cost Tool to Reach Your Goals

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If you’ve been living under a rock and haven’t heard of exchange traded funds (ETFs), today’s lesson is for you (though I still can’t figure out how you managed to get a wi-fi signal under there). An exchange traded fund is:

– often referred to as a “basket” of investments. This means a single ETF includes a collection of investments, so to some degree, you’re already diversified.

– investments that share a similar quality, such as all large companies, all oil companies, or all value-oriented firms. Sometimes they’re really quirky: all water companies, for example.

– usually aligned with an index, which is an unmanaged benchmark set of investments that people use to gauge the economy or success of their own investments. Some popular indexes are the Dow Jones Industrial Average, the S&P 500 and the NASDAQ 100. Some unpopular indexes are the Joe’s Favorite Boardgame Index and Best Doughnuts Ever Index, though I tried diligently to gain support for both products.

– unmanaged OR managed on “autopilot” based on predetermined criteria, not based on the whims of a manager.

According to Clark Howard, exchange traded funds are the fastest growing investment type, and with good reason. Although they compare favorably with mutual funds, they’re more attractive in many portfolios for a few reasons:

– Lower fees. Some investors believe that lower fees equal better results. I’m not that guy. But I do think that if I’m going to get middling results, why not pay less money for it? The average mutual fund fee is around 1.4 percent, while the average ETF fee is only 0.32. That’s a HUGE difference in fees. Think it isn’t a big deal? Check out this:

Story Problem!

Sally just sold her illegal street-rod and wants to invest the $10,000 profit. Over one year, an exchange traded fund will add an additional $108 more to her account than that average mutual fund her friend Jimmy uses. That $108 cost savings, invested for 30 years at 7 percent nets Sally an extra $11,738.01 for free, which she plans to invest in new headers and purple undercarriage lighting when she’s 65 years old. ….stuff Jimmy won’t be able to afford. HAHAHAHA

– Many investment options. A few years ago there were limited choices. Now if you can dream it, someone has probably created an ETF to emulate that investment idea.

– Downside protection. As a side benefit, exchange traded funds trade like a stock, meaning that you can use protection measures such as stop losses on an ETF. Stop losses can’t be used with mutual funds, because they only trade once daily.

Exchange traded funds aren’t the end-all, be-all. There are downsides:

– You’ll pay trading costs when you buy and sell exchange traded funds. This will take some of the $822 back out of your pocket.

– You won’t beat the index you’re competing against. Because your investment is tied to the performance of the applicable index, your returns will most often be slightly lower than that index (because of fees).

– In fact, your results will be pretty ordinary. The only way to beat the index is to invest in the hottest investments only. By capturing the returns of the entire index, you’re getting the best and worst picks of the crowd.

There are other downsides, but they’re more technical (such as dividends and volatility due to stop-losses). For the beginner, this is what you should know.

When is an exchange traded fund in order?

Just like you don’t bring your own hot dogs to a wedding reception (lesson learned), there is a time and place for exchange traded funds. Here’s where they really shine:

– ETFs are a great “hull” of a portfolio. Think of a ship’s hull. It holds the rest of the ship above water and cuts a straight path. Any position that you need in the portfolio to mimic market conditions AND you aren’t going to trade often is perfect for an ETF for two reasons: 1) trading fees won’t kick your butt (you don’t trade in and out of the “hull” of your ship) and 2) you’ll get the same diversification as a mutual fund at a lower cost.

– You want market-like results but fear volatility. I love psychology. Everyone wants two things from their portfolio (what’s with the two things today?): 1) Big returns and 2) no risk. Am I right? Of course I am. The market doesn’t give you Burger King (have it your way), but you can limit volatility. As I explained earlier, exchange traded funds trade all day long, while mutual funds only trade once per day. Why’s this a big deal? Mutual fund investors can’t limit volatility during a trading session. ETF investors can use instruments like stop losses to curb losses. Sure, you’ll pay trading fees, but if the market tanks, your nest egg will only have dropped to your stop loss point.

– You want to take a risk, but don’t want to bet on a single company. Because some ETFs emulate sectors of the market, you can gain exposure to precious metals, commodities and other risky asset classes without betting the farm on a single stock, bond or commodity. Sure, you can do this with mutual funds also, but with the ability to buy and sell all day long (as described above), ETF investors enjoy a greater degree of flexibility.

– Wrap and low cost trading accounts. If you have an account where you don’t pay for individual trades or pay a minimal amount, trading fees on ETFs are no longer a bridle on your results.

So, minions, that’s our Exchange Traded Fund lesson for the day.  Here’s my question to you: If you use exchange traded funds in your portfolio, how do you deploy them? Why do you like them? If you don’t use ETFs, it may be a marvelous idea to read the comments and see if some of our brilliant readers have additional ideas. Enjoy!