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Different Ways To Think About Money

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Your money philosophy and how you think about your finances make a big difference in the decisions you make.

Whether you’re just starting your financial journey or you’re well into it, it’s a good idea to take a step back and define that philosophy.

Money is a tool

Sure, there are monetary goals you would like to achieve. For example, $1 million nest egg has long been touted as the number you need to hit for a comfortable retirement, but hitting, somewhat, arbitrary numbers aren’t everything.

Money is a tool. If used properly, you really can achieve financial success. Taking the money you’ve saved and putting it to work for you is a very simple, yet effective way to use it.

Another monetary tool is a credit card. Credit cards offer a variety of reward programs, like travel miles, cashback, among others. Additionally, it enables you to build and strengthen your credit report.

It is important, however, that if you are using a credit card, you must do so responsibly. Accumulating credit card debt can really set you back, financially.

Related reading: A Deep Dive Into Credit Cards

Focus on the solution, not the problem

Often times, we focus too much on the issues with our finances. I have too much debt, I have too little saved for retirement, or my expenses are killing my ability to save.

Instead of focusing on the problem, focus on what can be done to fix it.

If you have too much debt, develop a plan to pay it down. If your retirement savings are low, figure out how you can increase your savings rate. Expenses hurting your ability to save, cut your expenses.

“Whatever the problem, be part of the solution. Don’t just sit around raising questions and pointing out obstacles.” Tina Fey

Related reading: How To Cut Spending

Money using emotional bandwidth

It is true that money is relatively important. I say relatively to try and redirect to my first point when I mentioned that money is to be used as a tool.

It affords you food to eat, clothes to wear, and a place to live, among other things. If your basic needs are met and future goals are being worked towards, you have to try and stop worrying that you don’t have enough.

This is extremely challenging to do because we, as a society, are so fixated on money and material items that money can buy. It also doesn’t help that comparing ourselves to others is essentially baked into our DNA.

Believe me, I know that learning to stop worrying is incredibly difficult, but retraining your brain to view your finances differently can be extremely liberating.

Related reading: The Psychology Of Money

Think long-term

To be a successful investor or to be able to financially plan effectively, you have to think long term.

The market is going to have its ups and downs, as an investor, it’s important to ride out those down periods and continue to invest. If you have 15+ years until you need that money, you should be able to recoup your losses.

With regard to saving, I typically take the “bucket” approach. I have three buckets, short-term, medium-term, and long-term. Be advised: the following is how I define these time horizons.

  • The short-term bucket is for items under 5 years away. For example, when I want certain debts paid off or a down payment for a house.
  • Medium-term is anything 5-15 years away. The main one in this category is my son’s college savings.
  • Long-term is retirement savings, exclusively.

Related reading: How To Make Long-Term Investing Decisions

Buying experiences versus buying stuff

Money to a certain extent can buy happiness. As long as it’s being spent on experiences rather than stuff.

Memories with family and friends, visiting different destinations and attractions are the things we’ll cherish most.

Stuff breaks and toys are outgrown. What people won’t forget, however, is the time you spend with them.

Make that a priority. I know, as a fairly new parent (my son is almost 2), that I am constantly aware of how finite time is and that I need to make the most of those moments I spend with him.

The way you think about money pulls weight in how you use it. When creating a financial plan, I would prioritize figuring that out. How you think can lead to how you act.

The Questions You Need To Ask Yourself

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Questions are a fantastic way to understand things better. They are vitally important in our everyday lives.

One area where I think they are underutilized is personal finance.

You NEED to ask yourself questions on the regular so you can discern if you are doing the right things and taking the correct steps for YOU.

In the following article, we’re going to explore the various questions you need to ask yourself in order to be financially effective.

What is my goal with money?

This is a fairly general question, so we’ll break it down into three buckets: short term, medium-term, and long term.

  • Short-term (Under 2 years) – If you are saving for a short-term goal, what is it? A vacation? Down payment on a house? No matter the goal, that money will be used soon so the best place for it is in a savings account.
  • Medium-term (2-10 years) – This could be anything from a down payment for a house to saving for your kids’ college education. What you do in the interim depends on when you’ll need it and the goal you are saving for. If it’s less than 5 years, I’d still recommend a savings account or short-term bonds. Something that can earn you a little interest, but is still relatively safe. That 5-10 year period depends on the goal. If there’s a particular dollar amount you need to it (down payment, for instance) I’d go no more than moderately aggressive. You want to earn a little, but you don’t want that saved amount to go under what you need.
  • Long-term (10+ years) – Most often, a goal that’s over 10 years away can be invested in the stock market, though the percentage of your assets that’s actually in the market depends on the risks you are willing to take and when you need to access those funds.

Related reading: Financial planning for all ages

How much am I willing to lose before I sell?

I almost always propose this question to new clients because it gives me a good understanding of their risk tolerance.

If they are only comfortable with losing 10% of their portfolio, they’ll be invested pretty conservatively.

On the other hand, if they can tolerate a 50% drawdown and not bat an eye, then we can “put the pedal to the floor”, excuse the expression.

Determine how much of a loss you can stomach and that will give you a good idea of how to allocate your assets.

Related reading: Are you taking on too much investment risk?

How long will it take to adjust my allocations?

Questions regarding asset allocation, typically, pertain to risk and time horizon. For example, if you start saving for retirement when you’re 25, the majority of your portfolio will be in equities (stocks).

This allocation, generally speaking, is suitable for you for a couple of decades. At which point, you’ll probably (again, speaking generally) want to shift a little more of your portfolio to bonds.

Your allocation will, and should, shift over time, and once you get within a few years of your goal, the primary objective of your portfolio becomes capital preservation.

Related reading: Why asset allocation matters

Are my actions suitable for my current financial situation?

Financial situation takes everything into consideration (income, debt, spending, savings, etc.) Actions can be anything related to those items.

Specifically what I’m talking about is how much you are saving, how much you are spending, and how much $ you’ve dedicated to paying down debt.

If you have a sizeable amount of debt and not a whole lot of savings, it’s time to cut your spending. Conversely, if you’ve paid down your debt and are ahead of the game with your savings, it would be alright if you loosened up a little and enjoy yourself.

Like everything in life, your personal finances are a delicate balancing act, and when you ask questions, you can figure out how to shift your priorities.

How is my money being spent?

Kind of related to the last point. Tracking your spending to find out exactly where all of your dollars are going is an important step.

Another recommendation I usually make is to create a financial playbook. Here’s a brief outline of how I create a financial playbook:

  1. Big picture – List all assets and liabilities. How do you have saved and how much debt do you have.
  2. List your necessary expenses – These are things that you have to pay (rent, utilities, transportation, food, minimum debt payments, etc.)
  3. List your monthly income
  4. Total up your monthly necessary expenses and your monthly income and see how much you have leftover. What’s leftover will help you discern what to do with it.
  5. I would list another line item for “fun,” though I would keep it to a minimum.
  6. What’s left after fun should be saved and used on debt.

Related reading: How to cut your spending

Conclusion

As I said in the beginning, questions help us understand the world, and ourselves, better.

Having a better grasp on why and when we make certain changes or do certain things is a must if we are to be more effective in managing our finances.

Your Wealth: What You Shouldn’t Do

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Establish an emergency fund, pay down debt, save for retirement, and grow your wealth! Much of your financial life is focused on the things you should do.

However, what I think to be more important are the things you shouldn’t do!

Educational Debt

There’s been a lot of literature/news over the last few years about how much of a problem student loan debt is. As of 2018, total student loan debt was $1.47 trillion. With a T! (Source)

That said, here are some things you should avoid.

  • Taking on too much – Some degrees/professions require a lot of schooling, which can lead to large amounts of student loan debt. And I don’t mean to speak ill of any degrees/professions, but if your desired career requires a “basic” 4-year degree, it’s probably best to find an in-state university to cut costs. Better yet, start at a local 2-year university or tech school until your Gen. Eds. are complete, then transfer.
  • Not having a plan for after – I think this is a common fear for Millennials and Gen Z, but you have so much time to figure things out. Don’t just go to college to get a degree. If you need time, take time. Once you figure out what you want, determine what you need to do to get there.
  • Not researching options – There are SO many student loan options. Depending on what type of loan you choose (private or public), you could have a wide range of payback methodologies. I wrote about student loan options and payback options in two previous posts. Check them out!

Credit cards

There are two BIG problems with credit cards. People who use them irresponsibly and people who don’t use them at all.

  • Using irresponsibly – This one pretty much speaks for itself. This pertains to people who spend way more than they ought to. A good rule of thumb is to only buy something using a credit card if you have the funds readily available to pay the balance off. Don’t have the money, don’t put it on the card. Doing so will cost you in interest and can really set you back.
  • Not using at all – Better than the first point, but still not great. Using a credit card can help your financial situation if you use it correctly. Most of them have rewards of some sort. It’s another credit account on your report. Charging and paying off right away establishes a good payment history. All good things for your credit score.

No emergency fund

Establishing an emergency fund is Step 1. If you don’t have money set aside for unexpected expenses, you’ll have to charge it. This leads to the point above about irresponsible use.

Save $1,000 for emergencies, turn your attention to high-interest debt (credit cards), and then shift your focus back to your emergency fund once that debt is paid off.

Spending

  • Paying bills late – Not paying your bills on time, especially ones shown on your credit report is a big mistake. The #1 factor in calculating your credit score is payment history. Paying ONE bill late will knock your score down. Just one. Don’t do it.
  • Spending too much – (See irresponsible credit card use) This is especially harmful if you frivolously spend BEFORE taking care of important “budget items”. Things like saving, debt payments, and bills.
  • Being too frugal – Though frugality is helpful in building wealth, it can also hurt you. There comes a point when you are too frugal. A vital life skill is doing things in moderation. If you pinch pennies and forego rewarding yourself, you run the risk of breaking the bank on a “bender”.

Investing

  • Waiting – I cannot stress enough the importance of investing early. What helps you make the most of your retirement savings is compound interest. The more time you have to invest, the more compound interest works in your favor.
  • Panic selling – This is a timely point since the market dropped almost 5% in the last week. Selling out of fear is always bad. More often than not, when you “panic sell,” you’ve already experienced the majority of the drawdown. Now, this depends on your particular situation, but it behooves you to stay invested during that period.
  • Using generalities when setting up an investment plan – Your investment plan needs to reflect your goals, risk tolerance, time horizon, and behavior. Using generalities is good for someone who writes about this stuff, but it’s not good for YOU. Your plan has to be tailored to YOU.

Life and Wealth

  • Sticking with a job you hate – Sometimes money and comfort makes us do things we don’t want to do. Being unhappy at your job is not worth it. It’s important, however, to thoroughly think through this decision. Quitting is tough, but if your family counts on you for income, you need to have a plan in place before you jump ship.
  • Comparing yourself to others – I’m going to encourage you to develop a new mindset because society taught us that wealth looks like fancy cars and big houses. I want you to think about stealth wealth. It’s probably my most favorite phrase/term. Someone with stealth wealth lives within their means. They live in a modest home, drive a car for transportation only, but saves more than the average person. They don’t “look” wealthy, but their retirement account says otherwise.

Further reading:

What it takes to be a successful investor

How to pay off credit card debt

Creating a financial plan you can stick to

Financial Planning For All Ages

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Don’t you hate it when you Google financial planning tips, and it spits out articles that don’t apply to you? This could be because you’re a different age than the article is directed towards or you’re in a different position.

Well, look no further. I’ve created a rough outline of how you can plan, regardless of your age or situation.

But I’ll be honest with you, a lot of this article will link to resources or previous articles that explain these topics in more detail, but I wanted to create a rough outline of how people in different age groups can plan.

Twenties

Ideally, you want to get a budget started, but nobody likes doing that. Instead, give your money a job. Figure out when you would like to have your debt paid off, then do the math to determine how much per month you need to pay.

List that payment plus housing, transportation, food, and other bills. That total tells you how much MUST go out, everything else is extra to do what you please.

In terms of saving for retirement, you have a lot of time to put money away, but if you start sooner, you’ll have to save less later. 10% of your salary is a good goal. If you can’t get there just yet, save what you can, but try to incrementally increase it over time.

Investment allocation here, as well as in your thirties and forties, should primarily be stocks. Not 100%, but definitely the majority of what you own.

Thirties

The financial plan in your thirties is similar to the one in your twenties. Pay down debt and save for retirement. However, at this point, you probably have more assets and you may have some children as well.

With the cost of tuition constantly rising, saving for their future education costs is important. The 529 is the most popular, and probably the best vehicle available to do just that. (Be advised: 529 plans do involve risk so please talk to your financial advisor prior to investing)

With more assets and children, comes more insurance. Make sure your property and belongings are adequately protected. Additionally, if your children depend on your income for support, life insurance and disability insurance are a must!

Fourties

Same story, different decade. Pay down (off) debt, save for retirement, and make sure you have adequate insurance. (Honestly, the save more, pay down debt, and have insurance is a great catch-all financial plan).

At this point, however, your retirement plans should become more detailed and concrete. Through your twenties and thirties, retirement planning essentially was just saving for retirement.

Now you should think about where you live and what you’ll do. You should also calculate if you’re on track and increase your savings if you’re behind.

Fifties

Hopefully, by the end of this decade, your debt will be mostly paid off, you have a good idea of what retirement will look like, and you’ve determined what needs to be done (if anything) for you to hit your target number.

As you age through your fifties, you should start thinking about adjusting your investment allocation. You don’t have as much time to gain back what you lose during a down market.

Reallocating to a 60/40 or 50/50 (stocks/bonds), depending upon your risk appetite, is a good way to reduce your risk and still participate in a bull market.

Sixties

Where you are at this stage in life depends on a few factors. Have you saved enough to live comfortably in retirement? Do you enjoy what you do? Are you healthy? Plans for Social Security?

If you haven’t saved enough, then you’ll probably have to work a little longer so you can save more. If you like what you do, then why not continue if you are able? If you don’t, consider a career change or (if you’ve saved enough) volunteering for a cause that’s meaningful to you.

If you are healthy, I recommend staying active and social as long as you can. Activity and a healthy social life are two of the three important variables for a fulfilling retirement.

Social Security and when to receive it is a huge decision. Obviously, I’m going to recommend waiting as long as you can so you receive a higher monthly benefit, but there are other things to consider.

Are you healthy? What’s your family history like? Do you have adequate savings/retirement income from other sources?

Health and family history help determine longevity. Poor health and/or poor family history may give you a reason to start receiving earlier.

There are calculators out the web (like this one here) that can help you discern what’s the best strategy for you. That’s to say, how do you optimize your Social Security and other retirement income so you receive the most possible?

Seventies

We’re living longer, healthier lives now, and down the road, the retirement age will probably make its way into the seventies.

If you have to work for the income, you’re not alone. As of 2017, the percentage of the population that are 70 or older and still working was 19%. Up from 11% in 1994. (Source)

My recommendation. Develop an income strategy that will a) afford you to live a somewhat comfortable lifestyle (obviously, cutbacks are necessary if money is tight) and b) help your savings last as long as possible.

There are a variety of calculators out there to help figure this out.

Conclusion

Financial planning is tough. As I said in the beginning, not many like to budget, so it’s important to give your money a job. $100 goes towards emergency savings, $1,000 to retirement, and $250 for debt repayment.

Do this, along with several of the other items I listed (as well as the ones linked below) and you’ll do just fine.

Helpful articles and resources:

Choosing A Retirement Plan For Your Business

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What type of retirement plan to use is a big question for employers. Not only do they want to do what’s right for the business, but they also want to do what’s best for their employees and future employees.

In the following article, we’ll break down three of the most popular options for employer-sponsored retirement plans.

What are your options?

If you’re an individual, your options are pretty straight forward. Outside of your employer-based plan, you can either contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA.

As a business, however, you have many other options. For organizations that are for-profit and not a government body, you the SEP IRA, SIMPLE IRA, and the 401(k).

More than likely, you’re most familiar with the 401(k). We’ll explore each of these below.

SEP IRA

Stands for Simplified Employee Pension Individual Retirement Account.

This retirement account is typically used with one-man shops or small businesses with a couple of employees.

The reason is the money contributed to the employee’s accounts can only come from the business. Employees are not eligible to contribute to their SEP account.

Here the characteristics of a SEP IRA:

  • Must contribute the same percentage of salary for each employee
  • Don’t need to contribute every year
  • Maximum contribution is $54,000 per year or 25% of annual salary, whichever is less
  • Contributions are deductible as a business expense for the entity
  • Money grows tax-deferred
  • When funds are withdrawn, they are taxed as ordinary income
  • Rules similar to a Traditional IRA
    • Withdrawals prior to 59 ½ unless used for a qualified purpose (qualified meaning exempt from the penalty, which is 10%)
    • Required Minimum Distributions must begin at 70 ½

SIMPLE IRA

Stands for Savings Incentive Match for Employee Individual Retirement Account.

Designed for small businesses, and has an employee limit of 100. If you go over 100 employees, you need to switch to a 401(k).

The SEP and SIMPLE (compared to the 401(k)) are inexpensive to set up and administer, and may be a great option for small businesses that want to offer a plan for their employees, but don’t want to pay the costs associated with a 401(k).

Here are the characteristics of a SIMPLE IRA:

  • Contribution limit of $13,000. A catch-up contribution of $3,000 for those 50 or older
  • Employees can contribute to their own plan (unlike the SEP)
  • Employers match contributions
    • Match up to 3% of employee’s contribution (doesn’t have to contribute if the employee doesn’t contribute).
    • Contribute a flat 2% whether or not the employee contributes.
  • Similar to the last plan, withdrawals before 59 ½ are penalized.
  • Also similar to the last plan, distributions must begin at 70 ½
  • There’s a weird quirk with the Simple, as well. If you withdraw funds earlier than 2 years after your first contribution, you’re penalized 25%.

401(k)

The 401(k). The plan that most people are familiar with, and if you have an employer-sponsored plan, it’s more than likely, this one.

The 401(k) gained popularity as companies switched from defined benefit plans (pensions) to defined contribution, where it became the responsibility of the employee to save for retirement instead of the employer.

Here are the characteristics of the 401(k):

  • Contribution limit is $19,000 with a catch-up of $6,000 for people 50 or older.
  • Total contribution limit, including employer contributions, is $54,000.
  • The 401(k) is an expensive plan to set up and administer, especially when compared to the previous two plans.
  • Like the previous two plans, the 401(k) penalizes you if you withdraw before 59 ½ unless your reason for withdrawal qualifies for an exemption. And you must begin withdrawing funds when you turn 70 ½.
  • With this plan, however, you are able to take a loan out against your savings. This loan has to be paid back, usually in the form of increased monthly contributions.
    • If you are let go from your job while you have a loan on the plan, you will be forced to pay it back with 60 days. If you don’t you’ll be taxed on the amount, and if you’re under 59 ½, you’ll be penalized 10%.
  • This type of plan is designed for larger employers, though there is no maximum or minimum on how many employees you can have.
    • They have a type of 401(k) called the solo 401(k). It has all the same rules and quirks as the standard 401(k), but it’s designed for someone who works by themselves OR their only employee is a spouse.

How to choose

Unfortunately, I can’t say which plan is the best. Each one has its own unique advantages and disadvantages.

When deciding which plan is best for you and your business, there are a few things I would take into consideration.

  1. Number of employees – some plans disqualify you if you have too many employees.
  2. Matching ability – Most 401(k) plans match up to 6%. The SIMPLE requires you to match up to 3% or contribute a flat 2% for every employee.
  3. Cost – Some plans are less expensive to set up and service than others. In terms of the 401(k), the more participants and assets you have in the plan, the less expensive (per user) it becomes.
  4. Attracting talent – More and more employers are using benefits packages to attract employees rather than salary, in what’s called all-in compensation. If you want to get qualified candidates in the door, you have to offer good benefits.

Conclusion

It should be known that whatever you decide, it’s not set in stone. If you set up a SIMPLE and you need to hire more employees than you anticipated, you can set up a 401(k). The SIMPLE will have to stay in place, and you’d just have current and new employees contribute to the 401(k).

For more information on all of these plans and others, read this article here.

Be advised: The numbers and figures listed in this article are for 2019. Contribution limits tend to change over time. Please review the IRS website for up to date information.

Why I Love The Roth IRA

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The Roth IRA started in 1997 and it changed the retirement savings game.

It’s probably my most recommended retirement savings vehicle, other than your employer-sponsored plan of course. You have to get that match!

The Roth IRA can be your primary retirement account or a nice complement to a work-based plan.

Here’s why I love the Roth IRA.

Tax-free withdrawals! That’s right, if you save for retirement using the Roth IRA, you get to take that tax-deferred (don’t pay taxes while money grows) savings out of your account without paying taxes.

While you’re working, you generally have two options (besides contributing to your 401k or Simple IRA) do I contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA? The amount of money you make plays a little bit of a factor, as the Roth IRA has an income limit ($137,000 – single, $203,000 – married filing jointly).

However, a back-door contribution is available. That’s where you make a contribution to a traditional IRA and roll the money from there into a Roth IRA. Be advised: You’ll be taxed at the time of the rollover.

That aside, contributions to a traditional IRA are tax-deductible (an income limit applies here). Conversely, contributions to a Roth IRA are not tax deductible.

Here’s why I like to recommend the Roth. I’d save for retirement, without getting that tax-deduction and pay $0 taxes upon withdrawal in retirement. At that point in time, your ability to earn more money is either dramatically reduced or gone completely.

It’s at this point when you need that money the most. I’d rather pay for it now and benefit from it later.

With all that said, I suppose I should list all the characteristics of a Roth IRA.

  • For 2019, the contribution limit is $6,000. If you are 50 or older, you can contribute an extra $1,000. Be advised: these contributions limits change often. Consult the IRS website for up to date information.
  • Because the money in the account was already taxed, there are no mandatory withdrawals. Uncle Sam got his cut already so you can let that baby grow for as long as you want.
  • If you withdraw before 59 1/2, you’ll pay a 10% tax penalty
  • There are exceptions to this penalty, however.
    • Death
    • Disability
    • Use up to 10% on your first home purchase
    • Pay for higher education
    • Medical costs are more than 7.5% of your AGI
    • Can pay health insurance premiums if you’re unemployed
    • The IRS has a tax levy against you
  • You can make contributions for the prior “tax” year up to April 15th.
  • If you withdraw your savings within 5 years of your first contribution, you’ll pay some taxes on your withdrawal.
    • Note: The 5-year clock starts ticking on January 1st of the year you made your first contribution

Conclusion

As I said, the Roth IRA is a great savings vehicle. Whether you use it on its own or use it as a complement to an employer-sponsored plan, it has a place in everybody’s retirement plan.

One last thing I want to mention. My reasoning behind why I recommend the Roth IRA so often is my personal belief. Please use your situation and your money/retirement philosophy when making this decision. It also pays to talk to a professional to see what they’re thoughts are, as well.

Creating A Financial Plan You Can Stick To

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The more I read and the more I meet with people, the more I realize that setting up a financial plan is more than dollars and cents.

Yes, the better financial plans have your typical items. Save this much, invest in these things, and contribute to this retirement plan.

But the best plans not only have this to take care of your financial needs but they’re also set up in a way that your psychological needs are met as well.

Can you stick with it?

The best plan is anyone that you can stick with. When setting up your plan, go through it slowly. Take each item one step at a time and consider possible scenarios when determining a particular section.

For example, when setting up a plan for your emergency fund, figure out what’s realistic for how much you’ll need and how long it will take you to get there.

Also, figure out how it will be replenished if/when it’s ever used. Perhaps you’ll have an automatic deposit setup indefinitely?

Another thing to keep in mind is including some flexibility in your plan. For example, if part of the process is setting up a budget and your weakness is eating takeout, include a little bit of money for it.

I generally advocate for eating your meals at home, but if it’s inevitable that you’ll go out to eat, it’s better to include a little bit of it, rather than trying to avoid it.

Will you gasp every time the market dips?

Investing is a vital part of your financial plan. Investing is what helps your savings grow, but at times, your investments can lose value.

Our psychology plays a big role in our success as an investor. It’s said that we experience the pain of a loss two times stronger than we experience the joy of a gain.

That said, you need to plan accordingly to keep your emotions in check. If you let them take control of your decisions, you could end up selling your investments after you’ve already lost value, at which point it may be better for you to stay in.

Most investable assets are in a retirement plan of some sort, so your time horizon is, more than likely, long-term. 20+ years for instance. Your risk tolerance is the other part to take into consideration.

How much are you willing to lose until you say, uncle? In a six month period, would you have to sell after you lost 10%, 20%, 30%, or more? Your answer to this will help determine what you are able to stomach.

The next thing to do is to stress test your portfolio. The popular investing/research websites will have this. You plug in your portfolio with dollar amounts and ticker symbols, and then (depending on the site) you can select a variety of scenarios to see how your portfolio would do during that scenario.

The 2008 Financial Crisis is a common one.

Conclusion

Creating a financial plan that has the potential to meet your goals is important, and having a plan that you’re comfortable with and one that will help you sleep at night is optimal.

Make sure, when you are developing your plan, that you are factoring in your behavior as an investor and as a human. We are emotional creatures, and that makes investing a little more difficult.

If you’d like to learn more about what was discussed here and for our disclosures, visit our website.

 

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How To Pump Up Your Finances

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By “pump up,” I mean to do something that improves your financial situation in any way. Reduce expenses, start a rainy day fund, invest for the future, etc.

With that said, let’s take a look at some simple strategies to pump up your finances.

Cut the fat

I’d start by creating a budget. Look at the past three months of income and expenses. Total the expenses, total your income and compare the two. This will give you a clear picture of how much you are spending versus how much you make.

After that, you can go back with a magnifying glass and see exactly where your money is going, and stop spending money where it is necessary, or at least reduce it.

You can also reduce the fees you pay to invest. Mutual funds and ETFs are the most popular vehicles used today, but they come with a cost. It’s listed as an expense ratio. That ratio should be as low as possible. Ideally, it’ll be under .20%.

A quick tip to cut your expenses – get rid of cable/dish. There are too many services available now. You don’t need to spend $100+ on TV anymore.

Increase savings rate

Hopefully, you are saving something. If you are having trouble setting money aside because of limited resources, give this article a read for some help.

You should be saving in at least two places. An emergency fund and a retirement plan.

  • Emergency fund – Say you are contributing $20 per month. This is a good place to start, but you’re going to want to save more so you have enough in case your car breaks down or you lose your job. After three months of saving $20/month. Increase that amount by $5. After another three months, at which point you’ll have gotten used to not having that extra $5, increase it again. Rinse and repeat.
  • Retirement plan – If you have a retirement plan with your employer and they match, you’ll want to contribute at least enough to get that match. That’s your starting point. Then you’ll follow the same steps as the emergency fund. After a few months, increase the contribution percentage. If you don’t have a plan with your employer, set up an IRA, start contributing what’s comfortable for you, and follow those same steps.

I mentioned you should have AT LEAST these two accounts. Personally, I have several savings accounts. They are set up for different reasons. I have one for holiday spending, one for car repairs, and one for travel expenses. Giving your money a “job” makes it more likely that you’ll use that money for that “job.”

Switch to an online bank

Most online banks have higher interest rates on savings accounts. They also, typically, have lower rates on loans (based on credit score).

If you are saving money for a rainy day and putting it with a brick and mortar bank, you’re most likely earning next to nothing. Better to put that money in an account where you’ll earn a little interest.

Refinance high-interest rate loans

I’m going to dedicate this section to credit cards because that’s what most people think of when they hear high-interest rates.

There are three strategies you can use.

  1. Balance transfer – Many credit card companies offer a 0% APR on balance transfers for a certain period of time. Some have terms for 21 months. The interest rate will jump after the 21st month, though, so make sure your balance is paid off before then.
  2. Personal loan – If you have credit card debt and don’t, or can’t, utilize a 0% balance transfer, then a personal loan is your next option. You get a loan for the total amount of outstanding credit card debt. Then the institution will send a payment to each credit card company and pay off your credit card debt. You’ll be left with one payment. Be advised, credit matters here (also for balance transfers) so if the interest rate on the personal loan is higher than the average interest rate of your credit cards, don’t do it.
  3. The last option is to call the credit card company and ask for a lower rate. More often than not, if it’s available, they’ll give it to you. It won’t lower your payment a whole lot, but it’ll definitely help.

If you want to learn more about credit cards, click here.

Improve your credit

Your credit score makes a difference. It can impact what loans you qualify for, the interest rate, where you live, and where you work.

If you want to start making moves in your financial life, you need to improve your credit.

There are three really simple ways to do this.

  1. Pay more than the minimum on your outstanding debt and pay on time – on time payments is the #1 factor when calculating your score.
  2. Call your utility company and see if they report to the credit agency. It’ll count as another credit account (a factor) and it’ll influence your on-time payments.
  3. Open a secured credit card – You open this type of card with a deposit. The deposit will act as your credit limit. If you deposit $500, you’ll have a credit limit of $500. Make regular, small purchases and pay the entire balance right away. Credit agencies like to so activity and, as I’ve said, on-time payments.

If you want to learn more about improving your credit, click here.

Conclusion

If you want to improve your financial life, it’s actually pretty straight forward. Spend less than you make, save money for the future, pay down debt, and improve your credit. If you do these four things (obviously, easier said than done), goals that once seemed far fetched, can be within reach.

Please visit my website for our disclosures.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

How much do I need in retirement?

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Conventional advice tells you that, for retirement, you need $1 million to $1.5 million saved, or that you need 10 to 12 times your current annual salary.

For example, if you make $100,000 per year, you’ll need $1 million to $1.2 million saved for retirement.

Are these numbers and calculations good enough? Is there a better, more accurate way to figure out what you’ll need to save for retirement?

In this post, we’ll look into that and more.

Check out retirement calculators

There’s a huge number of them out there. I recommend trying a few different ones, that way you can compare and average out the numbers. They’ll ask you things like age, current savings, current income, future contributions, etc.

Here are a few of the better ones.

Using some or all of these calculators, you can probably get a good idea of where you’re at currently, how to improve, and where you’ll need to be at the end.

What are the factors?

There are a variety of different factors at play. You’ll have different expenses and different income levels, and some of those numbers won’t stay steady throughout retirement.

For example, a couple’s health care costs in retirement are said to be $275,000 (Source). However, not all of that will hit you in the first few years of retirement.

More than likely, you’ll have minimal costs in the beginning, and they’ll slowly increase as you age.

Where will you live?

This can be a huge variable in retirement. Its widely known that different areas of the country have a higher cost of living. San Francisco is more expensive than Lincoln, Nebraska.

Another important factor regarding your living situation is if you have a mortgage or not. No mortgage means fewer expenses, which is less going out of your pocket, and more that can be saved for the future.

Not having a mortgage can also give you some leverage. If you decide that your current home is too big and would like to downsize, you can use the proceeds from the sale of your previous home to, hopefully, buy your new one outright.

Living Expenses

We’ve talked briefly about health care expenses during retirement and we talked about housing. Without a doubt, these are the two largest expenses during retirement. There are a few more to consider, however.

  • Transportation – did you relocate? Or do you have family in other parts of the country? Transportation and lodging need to be taken into account when figuring out your expenses for retirement, especially if you’ll be traveling regularly.
  • Entertainment – you might be looking for something to fill your time. It could be filled with expensive hobbies or other activities. If you are looking for something to do, or are looking to start a hobby, be sure your budget will allow for it.
  • Remaining expenses – the leftover expenses are ones you deal with right now (food, clothes, utilities, bills, insurance, etc.)

A budget is just as important in retirement as it is now, if not more so. Keeping track of your expenses and your income is very essential to your finances during retirement.

You often hear people in retirement say they are on a fixed income. What that means is they have lost their ability to earn more money. What they have is it. If you are spending more than your savings and your income allows, you are setting yourself up for failure.

Income

Your income from retirement could come from a variety of places.

  • Social security – provided by the government. The normal advice regarding social security is that it shouldn’t replace more than 40% of your income. Meaning 60% should come from another place. Your monthly payout from Social Security does increase the longer you delay taking it, and the reverse is true if you take it early.
  • Pension – these are becoming less and less popular as time goes on. They were huge back in the day when workers would stay with one company until they retired, but because people switch jobs so often nowadays, employers don’t want to take the chance. If you have one, consider yourself lucky.
  • Retirement savings – more than likely, this is where the other significant portion of your income will come from. This is where having a financial advisor is beneficial because you have to use enough of your savings to afford your retirement, but not too much so you don’t run out of money. Tricky.
  • Other areas – there can be other sources of income during retirement. You could have some dividend or interest income from your investments, you could work part-time to stay active and earn a little extra, or you could possibly have a rental property or several.

If you want to learn more about where your income could come from in retirement, click here.

Wherever your income comes from, it’s important to coordinate effectively so you maximize your current income without jeopardizing your savings.

What will you do in retirement?

How you spend your time will also have a huge effect on your expenses.

If you plan on spending most of your time with your grandkids, retirement could be more affordable than if you planning on golfing a few times per week. Although it could quite possibly be much more expensive than golf, we all know how grandparents are with their grandchildren.

If money is tight and you are looking for things to fill your day, there are many free or low-cost activities available to you.

  • Volunteer – not only is this a free activity. You’ll feel useful, you’ll get to use your brain, and you’ll have a sense of community, all are shown to increase longevity.
  • Go to the park – take a walk, bring a book, or just interact with nature and the community.
  • Community center – not all municipalities have one, but go to your local community center or go to your municipality’s website. There you will find local events, most of which are free.
  • Discounts – most places offer senior discounts. If you aren’t offered one, make sure you ask for it. This really could save you a lot of money on activities, food, etc.

How long will you live

The most depressing point in this post, but one of the most important. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it), no one knows how long we are going to live for.

One way to get a little indication, but not really, is your family history. If your grandparents or parents lived into their 80s, 90s, or 100s, the chances of you living a long life are a little higher.

On the flip side, if most of your relatives passed away in their 60s or 70s, your odds of living into your 80s and 90s are lower.

However, this really is no indication on how long you’ll live for. One of the most important things you can do for yourself is to live a healthy lifestyle. Take a walk once or twice per day, do something daily that will engage your mind, interact with friends and people in your community, and eat better.

The 4% Rule

You’ve probably heard this before too. Here’s what it is. Once you retire, you withdraw 4% of your retirement savings every year. This is considered a safe withdrawal rate, as the withdrawals would consist mostly of interest, dividends, and unrealized gains from your investments.

Let’s say you have $1 million saved for retirement. The 4% rule would allow you to withdraw $40,000 per year. All else staying the same, you have 25 years worth of withdrawals using this method. Be advised that no growth was factored into this calculation.

Conclusion

I suppose you’d like an answer to the question we proposed in the beginning. Here it is. It depends. It depends on your current and future expenses, it depends on where you’re income will come from, it depends on how much income you expect (outside of retirement savings), and it depends on how you live your life during retirement.

Most importantly, you need to work with a financial professional, ideally someone that specializes in retirement planning.

To learn more about retirement planning and for our disclosures, visit www.crgfinancialservices.com.

How does Investment Strategy Change with Age?

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As we all know, as we age and our lives change. Our financial responsibilities and investment strategies change along with it.

In most cases, there are two truths to abide by. You have saved as much as you can and invest according to your risk tolerance, time horizon, and goals.

But what else is there? How do my financial life and my investment strategy change with time?

Starting career

Either you are just out of school or have been in the workforce for a few years. Regardless of which path you came from, there are two things on your list. Get rid of debt, or at least get it under control, and save for retirement.

There are several ways to plan for debt repayment.

  • Debt Snowball
  • Debt Avalanche
  • Balance transfers (credit cards)
  • Personal Loan (loan consolidation)
  • Refinance (student loans)

Check out this post on paying off your debt, here.

Step two is saving for retirement. If the company you work for offers a retirement plan, sign up for it. Max out your contributions if you can, but at the very least, contribute enough to get the employer match (if it’s offered).

Also, open a Roth IRA. If you have a little extra, contribute some to a Roth IRA in addition to your workplace plan.

Your investments. Time is your best friend at this point. Most of your investment allocation should be focused towards growth. Don’t put all of your eggs in one basket, diversify among stocks and bonds.

Again, the majority (at least 70%) of your portfolio should be in stocks, in some form or another.

Starting family

If you’re like the average American, your family starts to form around your 30th birthday. Hopefully, you’ve got a good head start on paying down your debt and saving for your retirement. Continue on that path.

With a family, comes saving for your kid’s college education, as well as other expenses (house, car, etc.). Contribute a little every month to a 529 College Savings Plan. The funds within this account can be invested aggressively, similar to your allocation in your twenties.

Your retirement savings is still in a good spot. Similar to your twenties, regarding the stock and bond allocation.

One last thing, get some disability and life insurance. If you have people that count on you, you need to protect them.

High earning years

More than likely, this will be your forties and fifties. At this point in your life, the average American is in their peak earning years, so take advantage of that and increase your retirement savings.

This will also be the time that your kids either go off to college or enter the workforce. Congratulations (kind of) you are empty nesters. You no longer have a college education to save for. More can go towards your retirement.

More than likely, though, you will have miscellaneous expenses from your kids that you will continue to pay for.

Your investment strategy will change slightly. You are getting closer to retirement so it’s time to start protecting what you’ve saved. A little less in stocks and a little more in bonds. Think 60/40 or 50/50.

Near retirement

You are in the home stretch! At this point, your debts (including your house, hopefully) should be paid off. All assets and your retirement savings should be looking healthy.

Your investment allocation will be similar to the last section. Definitely 50/50 if not 40/60, stocks to bonds.

Retirement

Congratulations, you’ve made it to your retirement. This can be liberating for some, but for others, this is an emotional challenge.

You’ve spent the last 40 or so years saving for retirement and now you are expected to start spending it. This is very tough for a lot of people.

From my experience and in my opinion, you should retain some sort of activity. Something that gets you out of the house, something that forces you to socialize, and something that makes you use your brain.

Staying social and sharp mentally could add some extra time to your life.

Your investments should be conservative. At least 40/60, but the more conservative the better. And it’s usually not a bad idea to keep some of your savings in cash, for emergencies such as health expenses (which will certainly go up at this point).

You don’t have many or any, more chances to earn more money, so it’s very important that you protect what you’ve saved.

Conclusion

The above information can be very useful to the average person. Paying off your debt and making your retirement savings a priority is very important.

Unfortunately, there is a retirement savings crisis in America. People aren’t saving nearly enough for retirement. They are counting on other sources, like Social Security or pensions to fund their retirement.

This isn’t enough. You won’t receive enough from Social Security to support yourself and pensions are few and far between, nowadays. We all need to do a better job of saving.

This article was created for informational purposes only. The above items are not to be taken for personal financial advice. Please consult with a professional about your personal situation.

To learn more about retirement savings and investing, and for our disclosures, visit our website: www.crgfinancialservices.com.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.