401(k) Archives - The Free Financial Advisor

Bond Yields Are Surging Again — What That Means for Savings Accounts, Loans and 401(k)s

September 16, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

Bond yields are surging again, and that movement reaches far beyond Wall Street. The 10-year Treasury yield climbed above 5% on September 15, reaching about 5.04%, its highest level since 2007, as investors reacted to inflation concerns, higher oil prices and worries about government borrowing.

That matters because Treasury yields help set the tone for many other interest rates. A rising yield can create opportunities for savers while making life more expensive for borrowers, and it can even shake up what happens inside a 401(k). The financial world loves complicated vocabulary, but the basic idea is surprisingly simple: when the bond market moves, household money can feel the ripple.

Why a Rising Bond Yield Matters to Regular Households

A bond yield represents the return investors can demand from a bond at its current price, and bond prices and yields generally move in opposite directions. When investors demand higher yields, existing bonds typically lose value because newer bonds can offer more attractive returns.

The 10-year Treasury receives particular attention because investors use it as a benchmark for many longer-term financial products, including mortgages and other forms of borrowing. Rising yields can signal concerns about inflation, economic growth, government borrowing or the future path of interest rates, and the current jump has reflected several of those concerns at once.

Savings Accounts Could Get More Interesting

Higher bond yields can create a more competitive environment for savers, but a Treasury yield does not automatically determine what a bank pays on a savings account. Banks consider their own funding needs, competition and broader interest-rate conditions when setting deposit rates, which explains why one bank can offer a much better rate than another even during the same market environment.

That creates a useful reason to check where cash sits, especially for money that needs to remain accessible rather than invested in the stock market. A household that keeps a large emergency fund in a low-paying traditional savings account could miss an opportunity to earn more elsewhere, while a high-yield savings account or other appropriate cash option may offer a more competitive return without requiring stock-market risk. Current high-yield savings offers can reach around 4.50%, although rates vary and can change.

Loans Can Become More Expensive

Borrowers usually feel the less charming side of rising yields because higher market rates can push borrowing costs upward. Mortgage rates, auto loans and other consumer financing can respond to broader market conditions, although each loan carries its own pricing factors and does not simply copy the 10-year Treasury yield.

That distinction matters for anyone shopping for a home or car right now because a higher benchmark can raise the cost of financing even when the Federal Reserve has not just announced a matching rate increase. Existing borrowers with fixed-rate loans generally do not see their rate change simply because Treasury yields climbed, but people seeking new financing or refinancing may face different quotes. A borrower who focuses only on the monthly payment can miss the bigger cost hiding in the interest rate.

Your 401(k) Could Feel the Bond Market Move

A 401(k) does not automatically lose money whenever bond yields rise, but the investment choices inside the account can react very differently. Bond funds and other fixed-income investments generally face price pressure when yields climb because older bonds become less attractive compared with newly issued bonds carrying higher yields.

Stocks can also feel pressure because higher bond yields give investors a more attractive alternative to riskier assets and can raise financing costs for companies. That does not mean a worker should suddenly sell investments because Treasury yields crossed a particular threshold, especially since a 401(k) usually serves a long-term goal rather than a short-term trading account. Instead, the move provides a useful reason to check whether the account still matches the intended mix of stocks, bonds and other investments.

The Smart Money Move May Be Paying Attention, Not Panicking

Rising yields create a financial tug-of-war that can benefit one part of a household budget while hurting another. Someone with substantial cash may welcome better savings opportunities, while someone shopping for a mortgage could wish the bond market would take a very long vacation. Meanwhile, a retirement account can experience both bond-market losses and stock-market volatility depending on its investments.

The practical response starts with knowing which side of the equation matters most personally. Savers can compare deposit rates, borrowers can shop financing offers rather than accepting the first quote, and retirement investors can review their allocation without making a dramatic move based on one market headline. With the 10-year Treasury yield recently moving above 5%, the bond market deserves attention, but a single yield level should not dictate an entire financial plan.

Could rising bond yields change how you save, borrow or invest over the next few months?

You’re Maxing Out Your 401(k) but Have No Emergency Fund. Is That Backwards?

September 14, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

Putting every available dollar into a 401(k) can feel like the ultimate financial gold star. The problem starts when retirement savings look fantastic but a broken furnace, surprise car repair, or sudden income interruption would send the household scrambling for a credit card. In that situation, the question is not whether retirement savings matter. It is whether putting so much money toward a future retirement leaves too little cash for the very real financial emergencies happening between now and then.

For 2026, the IRS allows employees to contribute up to $24,500 to a traditional 401(k), before considering applicable catch-up contributions. That creates a tempting target for aggressive savers, especially when an employer offers matching contributions. But a healthy financial plan needs more than a retirement account with an impressive balance. It also needs money that can handle life’s occasional financial ambush without forcing a retirement withdrawal or a pile of expensive debt.

A 401(k) and an Emergency Fund Have Completely Different Jobs

A 401(k) exists for long-term retirement savings, while an emergency fund exists to handle expenses that cannot wait until retirement. Money in a retirement account can grow over time, but accessing it early can create taxes, penalties, or other financial consequences depending on the circumstances. An emergency fund, meanwhile, should sit somewhere safe and accessible so the money can actually do its job when the water heater decides to retire. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau recommends keeping emergency savings available for unexpected expenses such as car repairs, home repairs, medical bills, or a loss of income. That makes the two accounts less like competing siblings and more like a toolbox with two very different tools.

Consider someone who contributes aggressively to a 401(k) but keeps almost nothing in savings. A transmission problem could force that person to reach for a credit card, borrow money, or consider tapping retirement assets. Suddenly, the impressive retirement contribution rate has not eliminated financial stress. It has simply pushed the household toward a more expensive solution when an ordinary emergency arrives.

The Employer Match Can Change the Equation

There is one big reason someone without much emergency savings might hesitate to reduce a 401(k) contribution: the employer match. If the employer contributes matching money when the employee contributes, reducing contributions too far could mean leaving part of that benefit on the table. The exact matching formula depends on the employer’s plan, so employees should check their plan documents rather than guess at the rules. The IRS notes that employer matching contributions count toward the overall contribution limits that apply to defined contribution plans. In plain English, free employer contributions can make maintaining at least enough 401(k) contributions to receive the full available match a compelling priority.

That does not mean someone needs to max out the account at all costs. There is a meaningful difference between contributing enough to capture an employer match and directing every possible dollar toward retirement. If a household has no accessible savings, temporarily redirecting some additional retirement contributions toward an emergency fund can create breathing room. Once the cash cushion reaches a comfortable level, the person can increase retirement contributions again.

How Much Emergency Savings Makes Sense?

There is no universal emergency-fund number that fits every household, because expenses, income stability, insurance coverage, family obligations, and job security all differ. The CFPB specifically recommends considering the types of unexpected expenses that have occurred in the past and using those experiences to help set a savings goal. Someone with an older car may face very different emergencies from someone with a newer vehicle and strong warranty coverage. Likewise, a household with highly predictable income may approach cash reserves differently from someone whose income changes substantially from month to month.

That means the goal does not need to appear as one enormous, intimidating number on a spreadsheet. A person starting from almost nothing can first focus on creating a small cash buffer, then gradually build toward a larger reserve. The important part involves keeping the money separate from everyday spending so a restaurant splurge does not quietly consume the furnace fund. The CFPB recommends a dedicated emergency savings account that remains safe and accessible. A useful emergency fund should feel boring until the exact moment it becomes extremely useful.

What If the 401(k) Is Already Maxed Out?

If someone already maxes out a 401(k) but has little or no emergency savings, the answer does not necessarily involve dismantling the entire retirement strategy. A better approach may involve temporarily reducing contributions beyond the amount needed to capture an employer match and directing that cash toward accessible savings. Automatic transfers can make that process much easier because the money moves before it has a chance to wander into the spending account. The CFPB recommends automatic savings as one practical way to build a consistent savings habit. Once the emergency fund reaches its target, retirement contributions can move higher again.

Another option involves examining other cash-flow decisions before touching retirement contributions at all. A household might redirect a tax refund, bonus, side-income payment, or other irregular money toward emergency savings rather than immediately increasing long-term investments. The right choice depends on the household’s entire financial picture, including high-interest debt and upcoming expenses. Someone carrying expensive credit card debt may need a different priority order from someone with manageable debt and highly stable income. The goal involves creating enough financial flexibility that one bad Tuesday does not turn into a six-month money problem.

The Best Financial Plan Leaves Room for Tomorrow and Tuesday

Maxing out a 401(k) while keeping no emergency fund is not automatically wrong, but it can create a surprisingly large gap in a financial plan. Retirement accounts protect the future, while emergency savings protect the present, and a household needs both forms of protection. If an unexpected expense forces someone into high-cost debt or an early retirement withdrawal, aggressive retirement saving may not look quite so heroic anymore. The CFPB notes that emergency savings can help people avoid relying on credit cards or loans when financial shocks occur. A balanced strategy can therefore mean contributing enough to take advantage of an employer match, building accessible savings, and then pushing retirement contributions higher as the cash cushion grows.

The most important question is not whether a 401(k) contribution should beat an emergency fund contribution on some imaginary financial scoreboard. It is whether the household can handle a realistic emergency without wrecking its larger financial plan. Retirement may sit decades away, but the next car repair certainly does not care about the calendar.

If you were maxing out your 401(k) with almost nothing in emergency savings, would you reduce retirement contributions temporarily or keep pushing toward the maximum?

Retirement Limits That Changed in 2026 That Savers Still Have Time to Use

September 6, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

Retirement contribution limits changed in 2026, and some savers could still have room to take advantage of those higher limits before the year disappears into the rearview mirror. Workers can put more into many workplace retirement plans, IRA savers get a larger annual limit, and older workers have more room for catch-up contributions.

That sounds like a reason to crank up the contributions immediately, but retirement accounts come with rules, deadlines, income limits, and the occasional tax-law curveball. A quick review now can reveal whether a bigger contribution fits the budget, whether an employer match remains on the table, and whether a saver qualifies for one of the year’s more interesting changes.

1. The 401(k) Limit Got a Nice Little Raise

The employee contribution limit for 401(k), 403(b), governmental 457 plans, and the federal Thrift Savings Plan increased to $24,500 for 2026, up from $23,500 in 2025. That extra $1,000 may not sound like a retirement revolution, but it gives workers another chunk of tax-advantaged savings space to use.

For someone who already contributes heavily, the practical question involves payroll rather than paperwork: can the contribution percentage increase before the final paychecks of 2026 arrive? Employer plans can set their own terms and may impose lower limits, so the plan administrator or benefits portal deserves a quick visit before making changes.

2. Catch-Up Contributions Became More Generous

Workers age 50 or older can generally make an additional $8,000 in catch-up contributions to many 401(k), 403(b), and governmental 457 plans in 2026, bringing the potential employee contribution to $32,500 when the regular and catch-up limits both apply. Workers who turn 60, 61, 62, or 63 during 2026 get an even larger catch-up limit of $11,250, creating a potential total of $35,750.

That higher age-based limit deserves attention because it creates a temporary opportunity that can easily get overlooked amid everyday payroll decisions. The catch-up amount does not require someone to prove that they fell behind in previous years, although the employer’s plan must permit the applicable contributions and the worker still needs enough compensation to make them.

3. IRA Savers Got More Room, Too

The combined annual contribution limit for traditional and Roth IRAs rose to $7,500 in 2026, compared with $7,000 in 2025, while people age 50 or older can contribute another $1,100 for a total of $8,600. That combined limit matters because someone who splits money between a traditional IRA and Roth IRA cannot treat each account as having its own separate $7,500 allowance.

There is another useful wrinkle: IRA contributions for 2026 generally remain available until the federal tax filing deadline in 2027, rather than disappearing when December ends. That gives eligible savers more breathing room than workplace-plan participants, although waiting until the last minute can turn a simple contribution into an annual tax-season scavenger hunt.

4. Higher Earners Need to Watch the New Roth Catch-Up Rule

A significant 2026 change affects catch-up contributions for certain higher-paid workers who participate in workplace retirement plans with Roth features. Beginning in 2026, workers whose prior-year wages from the plan sponsor exceeded $150,000 generally must make catch-up contributions on a Roth basis, meaning those catch-up dollars go into the Roth side of the plan rather than receiving the traditional pre-tax treatment.

This rule can make a noticeable difference in how a contribution strategy looks on a paycheck, particularly for someone accustomed to sending every available retirement dollar into a traditional account. The regular 401(k) contribution limit does not suddenly become Roth-only for these workers, so the change specifically targets eligible catch-up contributions rather than the entire workplace contribution.

5. SIMPLE Plans and Self-Employed Savers Have Changes Worth Checking

Small-business employees and owners using SIMPLE plans also received higher limits in 2026, with the standard contribution limit rising to $17,000 and the general catch-up limit increasing to $4,000. Certain SIMPLE plans can use higher limits, and workers ages 60 through 63 can qualify for a special $5,250 catch-up amount.

Self-employed savers should also look at SEP plans, where the 2026 maximum contribution increased to $72,000, subject to the plan’s compensation rules and other requirements. These accounts operate differently from a standard employee 401(k), so a business owner should not assume that one retirement limit automatically applies to every account on the financial menu.

The Calendar Is Moving, So Put the New Limits to Work

The most useful 2026 retirement change may not involve a complicated strategy at all: it may simply mean checking the contribution rate before another paycheck goes out. Someone who can afford to save more may have an opportunity to use additional tax-advantaged space, while someone already near a limit needs to make sure payroll deductions do not accidentally push contributions past the applicable rules.

A sensible review starts with the type of account, the amount already contributed, age, income, employer-plan rules, and the remaining pay periods or IRA contribution window. The IRS limits provide the ceiling, but a household budget still provides the floor, and retirement savings should not come at the expense of essential bills or a cash cushion.

2026 gave retirement savers more room, but extra room only helps if someone actually uses it. Which 2026 retirement limit or catch-up opportunity are you planning to take advantage of before the year ends?

Should You Pay $25,000 in Taxes Today to Avoid a Bigger Tax Bill in Retirement?

August 28, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

Paying $25,000 in taxes today to potentially save more money on taxes decades from now sounds a little like volunteering to get punched before the fight even starts. Yet that strategy can make sense for some retirement savers, especially when it involves converting money from a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA. The catch sits in the details, because paying a giant tax bill now does not automatically create a giant tax savings later.

A Roth conversion essentially moves money from a traditional retirement account into a Roth account, and the untaxed portion generally counts as income in the year of the conversion. That can hurt today, but qualified Roth withdrawals can avoid federal income tax later, and the original owner of a Roth IRA does not face required minimum distributions during their lifetime. So when does paying $25,000 now actually make sense?

The $25,000 Tax Bill Could Buy Something Valuable

The first thing to recognize involves what that $25,000 actually buys: future tax flexibility. Someone who converts traditional IRA money to a Roth IRA generally adds the taxable portion of that conversion to current-year income, which can push more income into higher tax brackets. That makes the size and timing of the conversion enormously important, because dumping a large amount into one tax year can create a much nastier tax bill than spreading conversions across several years. A person with a temporarily low-income year may have a particularly interesting opportunity, such as someone who recently retired but has not started collecting large amounts of taxable retirement income. The same strategy could look much less attractive for someone already sitting near the top of a tax bracket.

There also sits a psychological advantage that financial spreadsheets rarely capture: paying the tax now can remove some uncertainty from future retirement planning. Traditional IRA withdrawals generally count as taxable income, and required minimum distributions generally begin at age 73 for traditional IRAs and many workplace retirement plans. Roth IRAs follow a different path for the original owner, since the account does not require lifetime RMDs. That difference can give a retiree more control over which accounts provide income in a particular year. Still, tax flexibility does not equal guaranteed savings, so the $25,000 payment needs a real reason behind it.

Retirement Taxes Could Look Very Different Later

Nobody can know exactly what tax rates will look like decades from now, which makes the decision more complicated than a simple today-versus-tomorrow calculation. Current 2026 federal income tax rates range from 10% to 37%, with different income thresholds for different filing statuses. A retiree who expects substantially lower taxable income later could save money by leaving traditional retirement funds alone and paying taxes when withdrawals occur. On the other hand, someone who expects substantial retirement income from pensions, Social Security, investments, rental property, or large retirement accounts could face a very different tax picture. The key question does not involve whether taxes will rise or fall in the abstract, but whether the household expects its own taxable income to make a Roth conversion worthwhile.

Consider a fictional worker named Karen who retires at 60 and has several years before RMDs enter the picture. Her income drops sharply after retirement, creating room for a carefully sized Roth conversion without pushing every converted dollar into the highest possible bracket. She could convert part of her traditional IRA, pay the resulting tax, and repeat the process in later years if the numbers continue to work. That approach can look far more sensible than converting a huge balance in one dramatic tax-year fireworks show. The IRS also notes that a Roth conversion creates taxable income from untaxed traditional IRA amounts, so the tax bill deserves careful calculation before anyone moves the money.

Paying the Tax From Retirement Money Can Change the Math

Here comes a detail that can quietly make or break the strategy: where the $25,000 comes from. Using money outside the retirement account to pay the tax can allow the full conversion amount to remain inside the Roth, while using retirement funds for the tax can reduce the amount that actually reaches the Roth. That distinction matters because the converted money could otherwise continue growing inside the Roth under its applicable rules. A person considering a large conversion therefore needs to look beyond the tax bill and examine the source of the cash used to pay it. Paying $25,000 from a savings account can produce a very different long-term result from pulling that $25,000 out of a retirement account.

Cash flow matters for another reason, too: a large conversion can create a tax bill that arrives before the retirement benefit arrives. The IRS notes that people with taxable conversion income may need to increase withholding or make estimated tax payments. Nobody wants to discover that the brilliant Roth strategy also produced an unpleasant tax-payment surprise because the money sat in the wrong account at the wrong time. A conversion plan should therefore include the federal tax, possible state tax, payment timing, and the money available outside retirement accounts. The goal involves controlling the tax bill, not simply moving it from one account to another and hoping for the best.

A Roth Conversion Should Fit the Whole Retirement Plan

A Roth conversion can look fantastic in isolation and still make little sense when the rest of the financial picture enters the room. The decision should account for current income, filing status, existing retirement balances, expected future withdrawals, other taxable income, and the money available to pay the conversion tax. It also helps to consider how much money the household actually needs in retirement rather than converting money simply because a Roth sounds tax-friendly. The IRS limits annual IRA contributions, but those contribution limits do not prevent qualifying Roth conversions from moving larger amounts from traditional retirement accounts into Roth accounts. That distinction matters because a conversion and a regular Roth IRA contribution follow different rules.

For someone facing a potential $25,000 tax bill, the smartest move may involve converting less, converting over several years, or skipping the conversion entirely. A tax professional can model several scenarios instead of treating the decision like a yes-or-no referendum on Roth IRAs. A useful comparison should show what happens if the money stays in the traditional account, what happens under a partial conversion, and what happens under a larger conversion. It should also account for the tax payment itself, because that money has an opportunity cost if it leaves an investment account or savings account. The right answer depends less on the scary size of today’s tax bill and more on what that payment accomplishes for the household’s future tax flexibility.

The Real Question Behind That $25,000 Check

Paying $25,000 in taxes today can make sense when it deliberately trades a known current cost for meaningful future tax flexibility. It makes less sense when someone treats a Roth conversion as an automatic tax-saving trick without examining current and future income. Traditional accounts can provide valuable tax benefits now, while Roth accounts can provide valuable tax characteristics later, so neither account deserves the title of universal winner. The most attractive conversion opportunities often appear when income temporarily falls and the taxpayer can control how much additional income enters the tax return. That makes timing one of the most powerful pieces of the puzzle.

The bigger lesson involves resisting the temptation to judge the strategy by the tax bill alone. A $25,000 payment can feel painful, but the relevant comparison involves the taxes paid today, the amount converted, the potential future withdrawals, the tax treatment of those withdrawals, and the investment growth that occurs along the way. Nobody gets a crystal ball for future tax rates, which makes flexibility particularly valuable in retirement planning. A carefully designed conversion can create more options, while an oversized conversion can simply create a very expensive headache. Before writing that $25,000 check, the numbers should prove that the money actually earns its keep.

Would paying $25,000 in taxes today make sense for your retirement plan, or would you rather keep the money in a traditional account and deal with the taxes later?

At 55, Should You Still Be Investing Like You’re 35?

August 27, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

At 55, should you still be investing like you’re 35? Maybe. The better answer depends less on the number candles on the birthday cake and more on when the money needs to do its job. Someone planning to work until 70 has a very different investment timeline from someone hoping to leave the workforce at 60, and treating both portfolios exactly the same makes about as much sense as wearing winter boots to a beach picnic.

That does not mean a 55-year-old needs to panic, dump stocks and stuff every investment into cash. In fact, going too conservative too soon can create its own problem: the portfolio may struggle to keep pace with inflation and support a retirement that could last decades. The goal involves finding a balance between growth and protection, then adjusting that balance as retirement gets closer.

Age Matters, But Your Timeline Matters More

Turning 55 does not automatically flip an investing switch from “growth” to “hide under the mattress.” The SEC points out that asset allocation should reflect an investor’s time horizon and risk tolerance, which means the same age can lead to very different investment choices. A 55-year-old with a paid-off home, steady income and plans to work another 10 or 15 years may have more room for stock-market volatility than someone who expects to start withdrawals next year. That distinction matters because investments for near-term expenses generally need more stability than money earmarked for goals that sit far into the future.

Consider two hypothetical 55-year-olds with identical account balances. One expects a pension, plans to delay retirement and has several years of income ahead, while the other expects investments to cover most living expenses almost immediately after leaving work. Giving both people the same stock-and-bond mix simply because they share a birth year misses the bigger picture. A portfolio should match the job the money needs to perform, not merely the investor’s age. That makes 55 less of a finish line and more of a checkpoint.

No, You Probably Shouldn’t Invest Exactly Like a 35-Year-Old

A 35-year-old typically has a long runway before retirement, which gives that investor more time to recover from market declines. A 55-year-old may still have a long investment horizon, but the portfolio now faces a more immediate possibility of withdrawals, which can make a major downturn much more uncomfortable. FINRA recommends reassessing investment risk as retirement approaches because investors may have less time to recover from significant losses. That does not mean stocks suddenly become radioactive at 55, but it does mean the portfolio deserves a closer look.

The biggest mistake involves treating “less aggressive” as “almost no stocks.” A portfolio that leans heavily toward cash and other low-risk investments can reduce volatility, but it can also sacrifice growth that may help cover a long retirement and rising expenses. Inflation creates a sneaky problem here because a dollar that sits safely today may buy considerably less later. The better question asks how much market risk the portfolio can handle while still giving the money enough opportunity to grow.

Think in Buckets Instead of One Giant Retirement Pile

One useful way to rethink the portfolio involves separating money according to when you expect to need it. Money earmarked for expenses in the near future may deserve more stability, while money intended for later retirement years can potentially tolerate more market movement. FINRA notes that retirees often need a combination of income-producing investments and growth investments, rather than relying entirely on one category. This approach can make a market slump less terrifying because the portfolio does not need to sell every investment at precisely the wrong moment.

Imagine a household approaching retirement with enough stable assets to cover near-term spending while keeping a diversified stock allocation for later years. A market drop could still sting, but the household might not need to sell stocks immediately to pay the grocery bill or electric bill. That flexibility can matter enormously during rough markets. It also gives investors a practical reason to keep growth assets rather than making a dramatic all-or-nothing move.

The Real Goal: Make the Portfolio Match the Life Ahead

The smartest move at 55 usually involves replacing an age-based reflex with a plan. Review when retirement might begin, how much income investments may need to provide, which other income sources could help, and how much of a market decline the household could realistically tolerate. The SEC notes that investors may need to change asset allocation when their time horizon, financial situation, goals or risk tolerance changes. That gives investors plenty of room for adjustment without demanding a dramatic portfolio makeover every time a birthday arrives.

A portfolio also deserves regular maintenance because market performance can quietly change its risk level. A portfolio that starts with a carefully chosen mix of dividend and growth stocks can drift toward a much larger stock allocation after a strong market run, while a major downturn can push it in the opposite direction. Rebalancing can bring the portfolio back toward its intended mix instead of letting market movements make the decision. At 55, the objective is not to invest like a 35-year-old or a 75-year-old, but to invest like a 55-year-old with a clear picture of what comes next.

The Birthday Isn’t the Strategy

Fifty-five should trigger a portfolio checkup, not a financial fire drill. Some investors may need more protection from market volatility, while others may need to preserve substantial stock exposure because retirement still sits many years away. The right mix depends on the timeline, income needs, risk tolerance and other resources that surround the investment accounts.

The best retirement portfolio rarely wins a beauty contest, and that is perfectly fine. It simply needs to give today’s money a reasonable chance to grow while giving tomorrow’s spending enough protection to avoid unnecessary damage from a badly timed market slump. At 55, the question is not whether to invest like 35, but whether the portfolio still makes sense for the life ahead.

What changes have you made to your investment strategy as retirement gets closer, and what would you do differently if you could start the process again?

At What Point Does Saving More for Retirement Stop Improving Your Life?

August 27, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

Saving more for retirement usually sounds like one of those financial rules that nobody should question. More money in the account can mean more flexibility later, but pushing every spare dollar toward retirement can also leave the present feeling strangely underfunded. The real question is not whether saving more helps, but when another dollar saved stops making enough difference to justify what that dollar could do today.

That line looks different for everyone because retirement planning involves more than an account balance. Someone carrying expensive debt, someone with a healthy emergency fund, and someone already saving aggressively may each have a very different answer. The trick involves building a future that looks secure without turning the present into an endless waiting room.

Retirement Saving Has a Point of Diminishing Returns

The first dollars directed toward retirement often accomplish something important because they can capture an employer match, build tax-advantaged savings, and give investments more time to grow. Those benefits can make increasing contributions a smart move, particularly when a household still has plenty of room in its budget. The IRS raised the 2026 employee contribution limit for most 401(k), 403(b), and governmental 457 plans to $24,500, while the IRA contribution limit rose to $7,500.

But retirement accounts cannot pay for a broken furnace next Tuesday or a family vacation next summer, and that distinction matters. If every raise immediately disappears into an investment account, current life can start feeling unnecessarily cramped even when the long-term plan looks excellent. A contribution that creates serious financial stress today may deliver less practical value than a smaller contribution that leaves room for ordinary life.

The Present Still Deserves a Seat at the Table

A useful retirement plan should leave enough money for housing, food, transportation, emergencies, and the occasional expense that arrives with impeccable comedic timing. Investor.gov specifically recommends building an emergency fund, controlling high-interest credit card debt, and setting aside money for long-term goals such as retirement. Those priorities can change the answer dramatically because someone without cash reserves may gain more security from building accessible savings than from squeezing another dollar into a retirement account.

The same idea applies to quality-of-life spending that actually matters to the household. Replacing unsafe tires, visiting family, taking a meaningful trip, paying for a hobby, or reducing an exhausting financial squeeze can provide real value instead of merely creating another line on a brokerage statement. Retirement planning should protect future choices, not require someone to eliminate every enjoyable choice until retirement finally arrives.

More Saving Makes Less Sense When the Basics Still Need Work

Extra retirement contributions deserve a second look when high-interest debt continues to consume money every month. Investor.gov notes that no investment offers guaranteed returns that outweigh the high interest rate associated with high-interest credit card debt, which makes debt reduction an important part of building financial security. A household also may need to prioritize an emergency reserve before aggressively increasing retirement contributions, especially when an unexpected bill could force a credit card balance.

Other financial goals can compete for the same dollars without becoming irresponsible distractions. Saving for a home, helping with a child’s education, replacing an aging vehicle, or preparing for a major upcoming expense may deserve space in the plan. Retirement savings should remain a major priority, but treating every other goal as an enemy can create a strange situation where someone owns a growing retirement account while constantly worrying about the next $2,000 expense.

The Better Question Involves What the Extra Money Buys

Instead of asking whether saving 15%, 20%, or some other percentage counts as enough, it helps to ask what another dollar actually accomplishes. If increasing contributions means giving up an employer match, the extra saving may offer a clear benefit, while pushing contributions higher after the household already handles its major priorities may produce a smaller improvement in financial security. The value of additional saving also depends on age, income, existing assets, expected retirement spending, and how long the money can remain invested.

A practical test involves imagining two versions of the same year: one that sends the extra money toward retirement and one that uses some of it for another meaningful priority. If the retirement contribution would barely change the long-term picture but would noticeably improve current financial pressure or quality of life, keeping some money outside retirement may make sense. The goal does not involve finding the largest possible retirement account at any cost, but creating enough financial security that future freedom and present-day life can coexist.

Retirement Should Fund a Life, Not Replace One

There will always be another contribution limit to chase, another investment goal to hit, and another financial milestone that makes the previous milestone look suspiciously small. The IRS already increased several retirement limits for 2026, including the higher 401(k) limit and catch-up provisions, which gives diligent savers plenty of room to keep pushing when their finances support it. But hitting every available limit does not automatically make someone financially healthier if the strategy leaves important current needs unfunded.

The sweet spot usually appears when retirement saving happens consistently without forcing every other worthwhile goal into exile. A solid emergency cushion, manageable debt, appropriate insurance, meaningful current spending, and steady retirement contributions can work together rather than compete for the title of Most Responsible Financial Decision. The best retirement plan does more than prepare someone to stop working someday because it also helps make the years before retirement worth having.

What balance do you think makes the most sense between saving aggressively for retirement and enjoying the money earned today?

Would You Rather Have $1 Million in a 401(k) or $800,000 in a Brokerage Account?

August 26, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

A $1 million 401(k) sounds like the obvious winner against an $800,000 brokerage account. After all, $200,000 is a pretty serious gap, and nobody needs a financial calculator to recognize that bigger usually beats smaller. But retirement money comes with a catch that makes this matchup far more interesting: the account holding the money can matter almost as much as the amount sitting inside it.

A traditional 401(k) generally lets investments grow tax-deferred, but withdrawals of taxable money generally count as ordinary income. A taxable brokerage account offers no upfront deduction for contributions, yet it can give an investor considerably more control over when and how gains become taxable. So the real question isn’t simply which pile looks bigger today, but which pile gives a future retiree more useful money, flexibility, and control.

The $1 Million 401(k) Has a Big Head Start

The 401(k) starts this race with a substantial advantage because $1 million is simply more money than $800,000. If both accounts hold similar investments and produce similar returns, the larger balance gives the 401(k) more capital working toward future expenses. The 401(k) also gets an important tax benefit during the accumulation years because traditional contributions can reduce taxable income when the employee makes them, subject to the rules of the plan. In 2026, employees can generally contribute up to $24,500 to a 401(k), with additional catch-up amounts available to eligible older workers.

That does not mean the entire $1 million belongs to the retiree free and clear. A traditional 401(k) generally turns taxable withdrawals into ordinary income, so Uncle Sam eventually gets an invitation to the party. The tax bill depends on the retiree’s circumstances, including other income and deductions, which makes the account balance alone an incomplete measure of spending power. A retiree who needs large withdrawals could face a very different tax picture from someone who takes smaller distributions over time. The $1 million therefore represents a larger pool of assets, but not necessarily $1 million of spendable cash.

The $800,000 Brokerage Account Has a Secret Weapon

The brokerage account gives up the 401(k)’s tax-deferred structure, but it gains something retirees often value enormously: flexibility. An investor can generally sell investments, withdraw cash, or leave the money invested without waiting for a retirement-plan distribution rule to give permission. Tax treatment also works differently because investors generally pay taxes on realized investment income and gains rather than treating every withdrawal as ordinary income. That distinction can matter when someone needs money for an irregular expense, wants to manage taxable income, or plans to retire before traditional retirement-account access becomes convenient.

Consider a retiree who needs money for a new roof one year and much less the next. A brokerage account can provide a flexible source of funds without forcing the same type of retirement-account distribution decision every time. Long-term investments that have appreciated may qualify for capital-gains tax treatment when sold, depending on the investment, holding period, income, and other circumstances. That flexibility can become particularly valuable when a retiree wants to coordinate withdrawals from several account types instead of relying on one giant bucket.

The Tax Question Changes the Math

This comparison gets spicy when taxes enter the room. Suppose someone looks at the two balances and thinks the $1 million 401(k) automatically beats the $800,000 brokerage account by $200,000, because the arithmetic says exactly that. The problem comes from treating the two balances as if they follow identical tax rules, which they do not. Traditional 401(k) withdrawals generally enter taxable income, while a brokerage account may contain a mixture of original contributions, gains, dividends, and other amounts with different tax consequences.

That difference makes the retiree’s tax strategy incredibly important. Someone with substantial taxable income from pensions, Social Security, retirement accounts, or other sources may value the brokerage account’s ability to control which investments get sold and when. Someone with modest taxable income may find the larger 401(k) balance much more attractive, particularly if withdrawals stay within favorable tax brackets. The IRS sets federal income-tax brackets annually, and the 2026 brackets range from 10% to 37%, so the size and timing of withdrawals can influence the final bill.

Flexibility Could Be Worth More Than It Looks

A brokerage account can also serve as a bridge between full-time work and traditional retirement-account access. That matters for someone who wants to leave a job earlier than planned or simply wants more control over the timing of retirement income. A 401(k) does offer legitimate access strategies and exceptions, so it would be a mistake to treat the account as completely locked away until age 59½. However, taxable distributions before that age can trigger a 10% additional tax unless an exception applies, which makes careless early withdrawals an expensive hobby.

The brokerage account therefore earns serious points for optionality. It can help fund a large purchase, cover an income gap, or provide spending money during a year when taking additional retirement-account income would create an undesirable tax result. The investor still needs to manage capital gains, investment risk, and taxes, so flexibility does not mean free money. It simply means the investor has more control over the timing and source of withdrawals. In retirement planning, that control can prove extremely useful when real life refuses to follow a neat spreadsheet.

So, Which Fortune Would Be Better?

For someone focused primarily on having the larger investment portfolio, the $1 million 401(k) wins the opening round. For someone who values access, tax flexibility, and control over investment sales, the $800,000 brokerage account can punch well above its weight. Neither account automatically produces a better retirement because the winner depends on the owner’s age, income, tax bracket, investment mix, withdrawal needs, and other sources of money. A retiree with a carefully designed withdrawal strategy could make excellent use of either account, while a poorly planned strategy could turn either one into a tax headache.

The most useful lesson involves the word “or.” Retirement planning rarely works best when every dollar lives in one account type, because different accounts can serve different jobs at different stages. A mix of traditional retirement money and taxable investments can create more opportunities to manage taxes and cash flow as circumstances change. The $1 million 401(k) looks better on paper, but the $800,000 brokerage account may offer tools that make its smaller balance surprisingly powerful. The smartest choice ultimately depends less on picking the biggest number and more on figuring out which dollars can do the most useful work when they are needed.

The Bigger Balance Isn’t Always the Whole Story

A $1 million 401(k) certainly deserves attention, and it would be foolish to dismiss the extra $200,000. But retirement assets do not exist in a vacuum, and taxes, withdrawal rules, timing, and flexibility can change the practical value of an account. The brokerage account may offer greater control, while the 401(k) may offer stronger tax advantages during the saving years and a larger starting balance. The best retirement strategy often uses those differences instead of pretending they do not exist.

Which would you rather have for retirement: $1 million in a 401(k) or $800,000 in a brokerage account, and why?

The “One More Year” Retirement Question: How Much Difference Can Working 12 More Months Really Make?

August 24, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

The “one more year” retirement question sounds simple until that extra year sits directly between a person and the retirement they have pictured for years. Working another 12 months can mean another salary, another round of retirement contributions, another year for investments to grow, and potentially a larger Social Security benefit. It can also mean postponing the freedom, travel, hobbies, family time, or sheer joy of never hearing the phrase “performance review” again.

That makes the decision far more complicated than simply asking whether another year of work adds money to the bank account. For some people, that extra year can materially strengthen a retirement plan. For others, it can amount to trading away a valuable year of healthy, energetic retirement for a financial cushion they may not actually need. The trick involves figuring out which side of that line applies to the household.

One More Year Adds More Than a Paycheck

The most obvious benefit comes from keeping the salary for another year instead of replacing it with retirement withdrawals. That can create a powerful double effect because the household continues bringing money in while avoiding a full year of drawing money out. Someone who planned to retire with a modest cash reserve, for example, could use that additional income to build an emergency fund, pay down expensive debt, cover a major home repair, or simply add breathing room to the retirement budget.

Retirement accounts can get another boost, too, and 2026 offers fairly generous contribution limits. Workers can contribute up to $24,500 to a 401(k), 403(b), governmental 457 plan, or federal Thrift Savings Plan in 2026, while eligible workers age 50 and older generally get an $8,000 catch-up contribution allowance; people ages 60 through 63 can qualify for the higher $11,250 catch-up limit under current rules. The 2026 IRA contribution limit stands at $7,500, with a $1,100 catch-up contribution for eligible older savers.

Social Security Can Make the Extra Year More Interesting

Working longer can also change the Social Security calculation, particularly for someone who has not yet reached full retirement age. Social Security uses a worker’s earnings history when calculating benefits, so replacing a lower-earning year with a higher-earning year can help in some situations. The effect varies considerably from person to person, which makes a personal benefit estimate much more useful than a retirement rule of thumb.

Delaying Social Security after full retirement age can create another potential advantage. For people born in 1943 or later, Social Security provides delayed retirement credits of 8% per year for delaying benefits beyond full retirement age, with credits stopping at age 70. That does not mean every person should automatically delay benefits, because health, longevity expectations, household income, taxes, and the needs of a spouse can all change the calculation. Still, for someone in good health who can comfortably cover expenses without Social Security, another year can potentially increase the size of a benefit that may last for life.

The Hidden Benefit: A Shorter Retirement Has Fewer Years to Fund

Here comes the part that retirement calculators sometimes make sound much less exciting than it really is: working one additional year also means funding one fewer year of retirement. That distinction matters because retirement planning involves both the size of the portfolio and the number of years that portfolio needs to support withdrawals. A person who retires at 66 instead of 65, for example, spends one fewer year relying on investments for living expenses before the next phase of retirement begins.

That can improve the odds of keeping withdrawals manageable, especially during a rough market period. A bad market early in retirement can create more damage when someone withdraws money from a shrinking portfolio, so postponing retirement can reduce the number of years exposed to that particular risk. It also gives the household another year to watch expenses, test a proposed retirement budget, and discover whether that dream retirement budget actually works outside a spreadsheet. Sometimes the best retirement plan involves discovering that the golf budget needs work before the golf clubs arrive.

But “One More Year” Can Cost Something, Too

Money does not provide the only measure of a successful retirement. Working another year can postpone time with a spouse, children, grandchildren, friends, or aging relatives, and it can delay travel or hobbies that depend on good health and mobility. A person who feels physically and mentally drained may gain financially from another year while paying a very different price in quality of life.

That does not mean leaving work immediately makes the smarter financial choice. Instead, it means the decision needs a broader scorecard than account balances alone. Someone who enjoys the job, likes the routine, and wants additional financial security may find another year almost painless. Someone who feels miserable every Monday morning may place a much higher value on the year itself, and no retirement calculator can assign a universal dollar value to that.

The Best Answer Might Be a Half-Step Instead

Retirement does not always need to follow the dramatic script of “work full time until Friday, retire Monday.” A person could explore part-time work, consulting, seasonal employment, reduced hours, or another arrangement that produces income without demanding the same schedule. That middle ground can preserve some earnings while giving the household more time for the things that made retirement attractive in the first place.

A gradual transition can also reveal whether full retirement really feels right. Someone who worries about losing structure or social interaction may appreciate keeping a few workdays on the calendar, while someone who desperately wants more freedom may discover that even a reduced schedule feels like too much. The key involves running the numbers on several versions of retirement instead of treating age 65, 66, or 67 as some magical financial finish line. A useful comparison should include retirement-account balances, expected Social Security, debt, health insurance and Medicare costs, taxes, planned spending, and the amount of cash available for unexpected expenses. For 2026, the standard Medicare Part B premium is $202.90 per month, although higher-income beneficiaries can pay more, so healthcare costs deserve a place in that comparison rather than an afterthought.

Give That Extra Year a Job Before Giving It Away

The smartest “one more year” decision starts with a specific reason for staying. If the extra year will eliminate a high-interest debt, build a cash reserve, maximize retirement contributions, increase future Social Security income, or move a shaky retirement plan into safer territory, the sacrifice may have a clear payoff. If the only reason involves vague fear that retirement might somehow go wrong, the better move involves identifying exactly what feels risky and putting a number on it.

Would working one more year make your retirement plan stronger, or would you rather take the retirement time while you can enjoy it? Share your thoughts in the comments.

Your Financial Advisor Wants You to Roll Over Your 401(k) – Ask These 7 Questions First

August 23, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

A financial advisor recommending a 401(k) rollover can make the move sound almost laughably simple: transfer the money, open the new account, pick investments, and carry on with retirement planning. But moving retirement money changes more than the account number on a statement, so the decision deserves more scrutiny than a quick signature and a friendly handshake. The Department of Labor specifically recommends asking why a rollover serves your interests and comparing your existing plan with the proposed IRA before moving the money.

That does not mean every rollover represents bad advice, either. An IRA can offer investment choices, services, or other features that make sense for a particular situation, but the important question involves what you gain and what you give up along the way.

1. Why Should the Money Leave the 401(k)?

Start with the simplest question because it can produce the most revealing answer: What specifically makes the rollover better for this particular retirement account? A vague response about “more flexibility” does not tell you much, while a useful answer should identify actual differences in investments, services, fees, withdrawal options, or other features. Rollover recommendations should consider alternatives, including leaving the money in the employer plan when that option remains available.

Ask the advisor to put the comparison in writing if the recommendation sounds complicated. For example, an old 401(k) might offer low-cost investment choices that already fit your strategy, while an IRA could provide a broader menu that you do not actually need. The best rollover case should make sense even after someone strips away the sales pitch and looks strictly at what changes for the account owner.

2. What Will the Rollover Cost?

Fees deserve their own interrogation because retirement accounts can collect costs in several different ways, and the cheapest-looking option does not automatically tell the whole story. 401(k) costs can include administrative expenses, investment management fees, sales charges, and other investment-specific expenses. Ask for the total cost of the current 401(k) and the proposed IRA, including advisory fees, fund expenses, transaction costs, and any other charges that apply.

Then ask the wonderfully awkward follow-up: “How much will you make from this rollover?” An advisor should explain how the firm gets paid and whether compensation changes depending on which account or investment products you choose. The Department of Labor specifically recommends asking about payments, conflicts of interest, and whether the advisor or firm receives compensation from other sources connected to the recommendation.

3. Are You a Fiduciary for This Advice?

The word “fiduciary” carries real weight in retirement planning, but it should never become a magic word that ends the conversation. Ask the advisor directly whether they act as a fiduciary under the federal laws that apply to retirement accounts when providing this specific rollover recommendation.

Also ask whether the advisor has any limitations on the investments they can recommend. Some professionals or firms may restrict recommendations to certain products or proprietary investments, which can narrow the menu considerably. A broad statement about being “independent” matters less than knowing exactly which investments the advisor can recommend and how those recommendations affect compensation.

4. What Happens to The Investment Choices?

A rollover can open doors, but more doors do not automatically create a better house. Ask the advisor to compare the actual investment choices available in the 401(k) with the investments proposed for the IRA, including expense ratios and any services attached to them.

This is where a little homework can prevent a lot of regret. A plan with a modest selection of low-cost funds may already provide everything needed for a sensible retirement portfolio, while an IRA could introduce hundreds of choices that make decision-making harder rather than easier. More choices can be useful, but “more” should never substitute for “better.”

5. What Retirement Features Could Be Lost?

The account may contain features that deserve attention before anyone moves the balance. Ask whether the existing 401(k) offers distribution options, investment choices, or other plan features that the IRA would not replicate. Employer plans can have protections under ERISA that generally do not extend to IRAs, making the rollover decision more complicated than a simple investment comparison.

This question becomes especially important for someone approaching retirement or someone who may need access to retirement funds under specific circumstances. The answer depends on the plan and the individual’s situation, so the advisor should explain exactly which features disappear after the transfer. “You can always move it back later” is not a substitute for examining the consequences before moving it in the first place.

6. How Will the Rollover Affect Taxes?

A properly handled rollover can generally move eligible retirement money without creating current income tax, but the mechanics matter enormously. The IRS says a direct rollover from a retirement plan to another eligible retirement plan or IRA avoids mandatory withholding, while a distribution paid directly to the account owner from a retirement plan generally faces 20% federal withholding.

That makes “Who handles the transfer?” an excellent follow-up question. A direct rollover can avoid the headache of receiving the money personally and then scrambling to replace withheld funds within the required rollover window. Before signing anything, ask the advisor and plan administrator to explain exactly where the check or electronic transfer goes and what tax reporting will follow.

7. Can the Advisor Show the Math Behind the Recommendation?

This final question ties everything together: Can the advisor demonstrate why the rollover makes financial sense over time? A serious recommendation should compare the existing plan and proposed IRA using actual fees, investment expenses, services, and relevant account features rather than relying on generic claims about flexibility.

If the explanation requires a fog machine and three buzzwords, pause. A good recommendation should survive straightforward questions about compensation, costs, investment choices, lost features, taxes, and alternatives, and the advisor should be able to explain those answers in plain English. Retirement money deserves that level of scrutiny because once a rollover happens, the account may look familiar on a statement while functioning very differently underneath.

Give That Rollover a Thorough Once-Over

A 401(k) rollover can absolutely make sense, but “my advisor recommended it” should mark the beginning of the investigation, not the end. Compare the current plan with the proposed IRA, ask who gets paid, examine the fees, check the investment choices, identify lost features, and make sure the transfer follows the appropriate tax rules.

The goal is not to reject every rollover or distrust every financial professional. The goal is to make sure the recommendation works for the retirement account owner rather than simply making the advisor’s job or compensation structure more convenient.

Has a financial advisor ever recommended rolling over a 401(k), and what question helped you decide whether to move the money?

The Retirement Tax Trap Married Couples Rarely Plan For: What Changes When One Spouse Dies

August 21, 2026 by Brandon Marcus Leave a Comment

The death of a spouse can create a retirement tax trap that has nothing to do with a surprise tax law. The problem often starts when one household loses one income source, then discovers that the surviving spouse must file under a less favorable tax status while still paying taxes on much of the same retirement income.

That shift can feel especially strange because the household may have less money coming in, yet the tax bill can take a larger bite. A couple who spent years planning withdrawals, Social Security and investments together suddenly needs to make those decisions around one person’s income, one set of tax brackets and one filing status. The good news: couples can spot many of these pressure points before a crisis turns tax planning into a scavenger hunt.

The Tax Brackets Can Change the Retirement Math

The year a spouse dies generally receives special treatment because the surviving spouse can file a joint return for that year if the couple meets the normal requirements. After that, the picture can change quickly, although a surviving spouse with a qualifying dependent child may use the qualifying surviving spouse filing status for up to two additional years.

For 2026, the standard deduction sits at $32,200 for married couples filing jointly and qualifying surviving spouses, compared with $16,100 for single filers. The tax brackets also narrow for single taxpayers, so the same retirement income can occupy a larger share of higher tax brackets after the surviving spouse loses the joint-filing status.

One Retirement Account Can Become a Much Bigger Tax Problem

Consider a couple who both receive retirement income and regularly withdraw money from a traditional IRA or 401(k). After one spouse dies, the survivor may continue receiving personal retirement income, Social Security and withdrawals from inherited accounts, but only one person remains to use the tax brackets. Traditional retirement account distributions generally count as taxable income, so taking a large withdrawal without considering the survivor’s future filing status can create an unpleasant tax bill.

Inherited retirement accounts add another layer because the surviving spouse has options that other beneficiaries may not have. A surviving spouse who becomes the sole beneficiary can generally roll an inherited IRA into their own IRA or use inherited-account rules, and the choice can affect when required distributions begin and how much taxable income reaches future returns.

Social Security Can Change While the Tax Treatment Changes Too

A surviving spouse may qualify for Social Security survivor benefits, and the benefit can range from 71.5% to 100% of the deceased spouse’s benefit depending on when the survivor claims it. The survivor also cannot simply stack a full survivor benefit on top of a full retirement benefit from their own record, because Social Security generally pays the higher eligible benefit rather than adding both payments together.

Then comes the tax wrinkle that often gets overlooked: Social Security benefits can become taxable depending on other income. The IRS uses different income thresholds for joint filers and single or qualifying surviving spouse filers, so the survivor’s filing-status change can alter the amount of Social Security that enters taxable income.

The Smartest Planning May Happen Before Anyone Needs It

Couples can make this transition easier by looking at what happens to taxable income under a one-spouse scenario rather than planning only around their current joint return. That exercise can reveal whether gradually taking money from traditional retirement accounts during lower-income years makes more sense than leaving every taxable dollar for the surviving spouse to withdraw later. It also gives the couple a chance to compare traditional and Roth assets instead of treating every retirement dollar as interchangeable.

Beneficiary forms deserve the same attention because a beautiful estate plan cannot fix an outdated beneficiary designation sitting at a financial institution. Couples should review IRAs, employer retirement plans, insurance policies and other accounts after major life changes, while also checking exactly who receives each account and what options that beneficiary will have. A surviving spouse may have more flexibility than a non-spouse beneficiary, but the rules depend on the account, the beneficiary and the timing of the owner’s death.

Build a One-Spouse Retirement Plan Before Life Forces the Issue

The most useful retirement plan has two versions: the plan for two spouses and the plan for one. Run the numbers using only the survivor’s expected income, then look at traditional retirement withdrawals, Social Security, investment income and deductions together instead of examining each piece in isolation. That simple exercise can expose a tax gap while there is still plenty of time to make thoughtful changes.

Death already creates enough paperwork without adding a surprise tax puzzle to the pile. Couples who review their filing status, retirement accounts, beneficiary designations and potential taxable income ahead of time give the surviving spouse something incredibly valuable: options. A retirement plan should not merely answer how much money a couple can spend, but also what happens to the tax bill when the household suddenly has only one taxpayer left.

Has the potential tax impact of becoming a single-income household changed the way retirement planning looks for your family? Share your thoughts in the comments.

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1. Why Should the Money Leave the 401(k)?

2. What Will the Rollover Cost?

3. Are You a Fiduciary for This Advice?

4. What Happens to The Investment Choices?

5. What Retirement Features Could Be Lost?

6. How Will the Rollover Affect Taxes?

7. Can the Advisor Show the Math Behind the Recommendation?

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