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Life Insurance: What’s the Right Type of Life Insurance?

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I’m not a big television watcher, so I’m sorry to say that I don’t see much Dancing with the Stars. I know, you had such high hopes for me. My wife watches the show, so sometimes when I’m playing around on “the Twitter” I’ll sit with her on the sofa. On more than one occasion, I’ve half-witnessed a total breakdown by the “star” because the workouts were too hard. What’s interesting is that these “stars” end up achieving nothing on the show while the harder working pairs continue on. Even if they don’t win, those stars that worked hard talk about how rewarding it was to learn something new.

That’s what we’re going to do today: throw out rules of thumb and learn how insurance works. I am totally an analogy ninja.

He did so well last time, The Other Guy is back to write another scintillating post on insurance. If you missed his last one, you may want to start here: Find the Right Amount of Life Insurance in 10 Minutes.

Everyone wants to use rules of thumb, or “what I heard from my friend” to decide which insurance is best. Why throw a dart when it’s nearly as easy and far more profitable to just do the homework?

I hear experts tell us to always buy term insurance. Or they moan that universal life coverage is a rip-off. I agree that there is one type of insurance that’s best for everyone, but:

The best type depends on what you’re going to use the coverage for and how long you’ll need it.

Decisions …so before you believe someone telling you that one type of insurance is better than another, minions, know the available types and how they work! Last week I shared a quick formula to determine how much coverage you’ll need. Let’s use another quick method to understand your choices when it comes to life insurance.

Just as a carpenter needs to know the difference between a hammer and a drill, you’ll need to know all the types of insurance to pick the best kind. Don’t worry, I’ll keep it entertaining.

Term Insurance is probably that most well known type of coverage. Because it’s stripped down coverage, it’s often the only type available in workplace plans. Term insurance is nearly as easy to understand as first grade math: you pay for a specific amount of insurance which covers a set amout of time, called a ‘term’.

Helpful example: Barry Manilow purchases a $250,000 10-year term policy. If he dies during the term, Mandy, his beneficiary would receive $250,000 tax free simoleons. If Barry expires one minute after the term ends, the insurance company owes Mandy nothing.

Whole Life Insurance is equally well known. These plans began decades ago as an alternative to term coverage mainly because the coverage lasts…wait for it…your whole life. Awesome, huh? I know. Marketing and naming wizards, those insurance companies. Most whole life policies contain a “cash value” component that can be cashed in by the owner. Whole life policies require payment for their…drum roll please…whole life, unless you buy a policy that can be “paid up” early. Generally speaking, whole life = coverage for your whole life and premiums for your whole life.

What’s awesome about whole life insurance? Guarantees! If you continue to pay the premium to the insurance company and keep your account in good standing, it’s guaranteed to last. The cash value grows at a guaranteed rate, so you don’t need to worry about interest rate fluctuation much. It’s a wonderful policy type for the super-nervous people of the world.

Universal Life Insurance is a variation on whole life – at some point insurance people said, “Wouldn’t it be cool if the payments to the policy and death benefit could be partially flexible?” Maybe they didn’t ask that exact question, but it makes the point. People who own this insurance pay extra (just like with whole life coverage) to add money to a cash value portion of the policy.

Once enough cash value accumulates, you can sit back and let the cash cover the costs instead of paying more money from your wallet. Many policies allow you to raise or lower the amount of coverage without having to purchase another one.

What’s another key difference between universal life and whole life insurance? Okay, I’ll tell you: universal policy interest rates on cash often float with interest rates. Awesome during 1980 when CDs were paying over 10 percent. Now, though, with the value of savings through the floor, universal policy rates are Coyote Ugly. And no, that’s not code for awesome, like the model-bar.

Variable Universal Life is the newest of the 4 major types. Those crazy insurance companies were getting smoked because the average saver decided to invest money into the financial markets. Marketing people said, pulling their hair out, “what will we do to keep business coming in?” Once again, the phrasing is off, but VUL policies (as they’re known in insurance lingo) were a reaction to the widespread use of mutual funds and other investment tools.

Initially developed in the late 70’s and early 80’s, these types of contracts allow for investment in various stock/bond accounts (similar to mutual funds, but not the same). The major draw of VUL? Flexibility of investments became the name of the game – and the opportunity to have market-like returns right inside your very own life insurance policy. In the go-go 1990’s, this was awesome. Since then, many investors have had middling returns and unpredictable results.

Which is best for the salesman?

In the interest of fair disclosure, I’m going to let you in on a little secret. Life insurance is a BIG commission check…I mean GIGANTIC. You wouldn’t believe how much. Let me give you an example: If you’re a 40-year old man buying a term policy that costs $100/mo; your insurance sales person gets around $850-$900 cash for the first year of your premium payments. Yes, you read that right, you basically pay a year’s worth of premiums to cover the commission amount. I don’t mean to infer that this is bad…it’s just how things operate.

Just thought you’d like to know.

Whole Life, Universal Life, and Variable Universal Life are even bigger payers. I remember receiving a check for over $25,000 for a single $400,000 Variable policy I sold early in my career. I also remember a $70,000 commission check for a $2 million policy. Big money.

My goal isn’t to make you angry. It’s to help you know the broker’s game.

…which brings brings us to the “One Question You Should Ask Before You Buy Anything”:

“Mr. Broker, how much money are you going to make if I buy this insurance?”

I was never ashamed to admit to my clients how much money I’d earn…a good advisor has no reason to be deceptive. But, if he hems and haws…maybe this “complex insurance investment strategy” that sounded pretty cool benefits him more than you. In my opinion, the actual commission is irrelevant – it could be $2 or $20,000, I don’t care – it’s how he answers the question.

All Insurance Types Cost The Same

Sometimes insurance agents will mention that permanent policies, such as universal or whole life, are less expensive than term insurance. I’ll lay it out and let you decide:

Sure, like some margarines are saltier than others, some carriers offer better premiums for smokers, race-car drivers, or 45-year olds. That’s true. However, insurance ‘costs’ among competitors are far closer than you’d initially imagine.

In the above example you’ll see the differences between permanent and term. Notice additional fees (in the right chart, 5 percent is deducted as an additional charge—this fee can be higher or lower depending on the carrier).

Here’s how all insurance costs are similar:

Insurance is sold in $1,000 increments. Imagine pulling up to the insurance store drive thru and ordering 500 $1,000 units of insurance. The cashier calculates the cost based on two factors: your age and the number of $1,000 units you’re purchasing. I hate to disclose this secret: actuarially you’re more likely to die every year you age.

With permanent life insurance, your “cash value” grows over time, reducing the amount of life insurance you buy from the insurance company – which makes it seem like you’re paying less for coverage.

A second handy example: if Jeff Gordon races to buy $500,000 of coverage and he stuffs $50,000 of cash into the policy – his beneficiary would receive $450,000 of insurance and $50,000 OF JEFF’S OWN MONEY to total $500,000.

Permanent life insurance is only cheaper because you’re paying extra into cash when you’re young, which lowers the amount you’re buying later on when it’s expensive.

Whole life, UL and VUL insurances in many ways are forced savings accounts added to life insurance.

Which Should You Buy?

So…which one is best? Well, that’s a loaded question – but here’s what I think. Start by determining how long you’ll need coverage. For the vast majority of savers, maxing out a Roth IRA and 401(k) plan and buying term insurance is the right answer. If you have a long term need and have a maxed out Roth IRA, 401(k) and you still have money left over…well then maybe a permanent policy may be a better choice.

For this reason, using term insurance for succession planning needs at work or estate liquidity needs to cover estate taxes usually ends in disaster. These policies need to be in-force when you die, so permanent insurance works best.

If you’re a worrier about outliving your insurance and want forced savings, whole life, UL and VUL aren’t the enemy. I’ve had clients purchase permanent insurance only because they wanted security and were comfortable paying a lot of money for it. These policies work, but for a cost.

Because most families need life insurance for a fixed amount of time and have other ways to save money, term is often the best choice.

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Find the Right Life Insurance Amount in 10 Minutes

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Another note from AverageJoe’s Thanksgiving visit to the in-laws:

Dear blog diary,

I’ve just trounced my mother-in-law at Scrabble again. It was absolute luck that the triple word score was open for my play of “austerity.” Of course, I had to hide a U and Y in my sleeve to place a nine-letter score. Luckily, we’ve both had enough “holiday cheer” that she didn’t notice. I know that to be a good son-in-law I should let her win, but not until I get a chance to play the word “bailout.”

Between all this winning and making Rice Krispies Turkey Pop Treats, I totally can’t be bothered to post anything today. Instead, I’ve opened the basement and let out The Other Guy, so named because he’s still a practicing financial advisor and doesn’t understand that being associated with me would totally be good for business. Whatever.

We’ll have a special piece tomorrow, but will completely understand if you don’t have time to read it. Safe travels, everyone!

Now, on to the Other Guy:

 

 

A couple of weeks ago, after being sick for about 10 days, I finally went to the doctor. Apparently, I have ‘walking pneumonia.’ I told the doctor that I don’t do any physical exercise, including walking, so I couldn’t possibly have “walking” anything.

In any event, I didn’t feel well. I began to contemplate my own mortality and then an idea popped in my mind: let’s spend a couple of days talking about life insurance! It’s obviously everyone’s favorite topic…and as a financial advisor who doesn’t like to be sold some insurance, I make the perfect teacher. As AverageJoe did with the “evaluate a mutual fund in 10 minutes” post, I’m going to break it down nice and easy for ya’.

Here goes:

Before anything, let’s not waste time evaluating coverages if we don’t have to. All too often, insurance sales professionals and financial advisors will just make the assumption that you need it and proceed to sell it to you. Here’s an easy way to determine if you need life insurance at all:

Questions to ask:

Does anyone rely on you for financial support, either right this moment or if you got hit by lightning?

If you’re single and/or have no dependents, there’s almost a zero point zero percent chance that you need life insurance. I might be convinced that a small group policy so that someone can bury you is adequate. If you have charitable intentions, there are insurance strategies that work really well….but that’s all. Nothing more.

Don’t let an insurance salesman tell you otherwise.

For those of you who have people relying on you for financial support here’s an easy way to calculate how much you need. Is this the best way? Nope. However, once we walk through these steps you’ll be on your way to making a good insurance decision.

Every life insurance discussion contains assumptions. You’ll need to make some to decide what amount is right for you. At the least, you’ll need to know where assumptions have been made, so you’re able to change directions if you need to.

Here are a few assumptions:

If married, I usually assume with clients that they’ll want the mortgage paid off when they die. Even if both spouses have a full time job and can still afford the house, I’ve seen too many people “go off the deep end” when their spouse dies to determine whether everything will remain stable at work and home. I can understand leaving this out, but at the least I’d evaluate your insurance cost with and without this cost before deciding to drop it.

You may find the additional cost is worth the pain.

If you have children, I assume you’ll want them to go to college, and you’ll want it paid for . Maybe not Harvard or Yale, but you want them to have some level of in-state public university education. Since college costs increase 8-10 percent per year on average, this is one of the most expensive budget items a family can face.

Let’s have the discussion here that we’ll have in client meetings: Maybe you paid for your own college expenses. Evaluate your children and savings and not your personal situation when you went to school. With costs rising quickly, do you want them to have this burden?

Here’s how much life insurance you’ll need…plus or minus the assumptions above plus a few more below.

Add together all of your debts, including your mortgage: $__________________

I’ve done the math on an average in-state tuition in the chart below. Add in these costs: $__________________

Next, we’re going to give your family basic income to live on. Here are where we need to make some large assumptions. Take your annual post tax (take home) income and multiply by 80%. This assumes that your family will live on 80 percent of your current salary if you’ve died. There are better ways to do this. Instead, determine what percent your family would need in the event of your death and use that percentage.

Divide this amount by .05. This means that you’ll need to peel off 5 percent to live on. This single number creates (again) huge assumptions. The biggest? It’s that you’ll continue to live on this income stream even as inflation skyrockets. Once again, we’re trying to get in the ballpark, so if you’re trying to do this the “quick and dirty” way, we’ll be close, but there are better ways.

Place your answer here: $__________________

Add up these 3 lines, that’s how much you need.
$__________________

Now, often, I’ve seen insurance salespeople stop at this point. Not good. Remember, you have some current savings! The goal of insurance in most situations is to replace income that you don’t yet have.

Subtract the amount of money you already have saved from the final number.

$__________________
Buy the difference.

Education Chart

Age $ needed today Age $ needed today
0 $78,855.87 11 $64,200.32
1 $77,395.57 12 $63,011.43
2 $75,962.32 13 $61,844.55
3 $74,555.61 14 $60,699.28
4 $73,174.95 15 $59,575.22
5 $71,819.86 16 $58,471.98
6 $70,489.86 17 $57,389.16
7 $69,184.50 18 $56,326.40
8 $67,903.30 19 $34,071.75
9 $66,645.83 20 $23,139.91
10 $65,411.65 21 $11,792.45

Later, we’ll have a discussion on the various types of insurance you should consider and the #1 question you should ask before you buy anything from any insurance sales person.

As always, this exercise is more about understanding the variables that go into making a good decision as much as it is about the final product. Plug in your own unique situation and evaluate many types of coverage thoroughly before buying life insurance.

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Exchange Traded Fund: A Low Cost Tool to Reach Your Goals

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If you’ve been living under a rock and haven’t heard of exchange traded funds (ETFs), today’s lesson is for you (though I still can’t figure out how you managed to get a wi-fi signal under there). An exchange traded fund is:

– often referred to as a “basket” of investments. This means a single ETF includes a collection of investments, so to some degree, you’re already diversified.

– investments that share a similar quality, such as all large companies, all oil companies, or all value-oriented firms. Sometimes they’re really quirky: all water companies, for example.

– usually aligned with an index, which is an unmanaged benchmark set of investments that people use to gauge the economy or success of their own investments. Some popular indexes are the Dow Jones Industrial Average, the S&P 500 and the NASDAQ 100. Some unpopular indexes are the Joe’s Favorite Boardgame Index and Best Doughnuts Ever Index, though I tried diligently to gain support for both products.

– unmanaged OR managed on “autopilot” based on predetermined criteria, not based on the whims of a manager.

According to Clark Howard, exchange traded funds are the fastest growing investment type, and with good reason. Although they compare favorably with mutual funds, they’re more attractive in many portfolios for a few reasons:

– Lower fees. Some investors believe that lower fees equal better results. I’m not that guy. But I do think that if I’m going to get middling results, why not pay less money for it? The average mutual fund fee is around 1.4 percent, while the average ETF fee is only 0.32. That’s a HUGE difference in fees. Think it isn’t a big deal? Check out this:

Story Problem!

Sally just sold her illegal street-rod and wants to invest the $10,000 profit. Over one year, an exchange traded fund will add an additional $108 more to her account than that average mutual fund her friend Jimmy uses. That $108 cost savings, invested for 30 years at 7 percent nets Sally an extra $11,738.01 for free, which she plans to invest in new headers and purple undercarriage lighting when she’s 65 years old. ….stuff Jimmy won’t be able to afford. HAHAHAHA

– Many investment options. A few years ago there were limited choices. Now if you can dream it, someone has probably created an ETF to emulate that investment idea.

– Downside protection. As a side benefit, exchange traded funds trade like a stock, meaning that you can use protection measures such as stop losses on an ETF. Stop losses can’t be used with mutual funds, because they only trade once daily.

Exchange traded funds aren’t the end-all, be-all. There are downsides:

– You’ll pay trading costs when you buy and sell exchange traded funds. This will take some of the $822 back out of your pocket.

– You won’t beat the index you’re competing against. Because your investment is tied to the performance of the applicable index, your returns will most often be slightly lower than that index (because of fees).

– In fact, your results will be pretty ordinary. The only way to beat the index is to invest in the hottest investments only. By capturing the returns of the entire index, you’re getting the best and worst picks of the crowd.

There are other downsides, but they’re more technical (such as dividends and volatility due to stop-losses). For the beginner, this is what you should know.

When is an exchange traded fund in order?

Just like you don’t bring your own hot dogs to a wedding reception (lesson learned), there is a time and place for exchange traded funds. Here’s where they really shine:

– ETFs are a great “hull” of a portfolio. Think of a ship’s hull. It holds the rest of the ship above water and cuts a straight path. Any position that you need in the portfolio to mimic market conditions AND you aren’t going to trade often is perfect for an ETF for two reasons: 1) trading fees won’t kick your butt (you don’t trade in and out of the “hull” of your ship) and 2) you’ll get the same diversification as a mutual fund at a lower cost.

– You want market-like results but fear volatility. I love psychology. Everyone wants two things from their portfolio (what’s with the two things today?): 1) Big returns and 2) no risk. Am I right? Of course I am. The market doesn’t give you Burger King (have it your way), but you can limit volatility. As I explained earlier, exchange traded funds trade all day long, while mutual funds only trade once per day. Why’s this a big deal? Mutual fund investors can’t limit volatility during a trading session. ETF investors can use instruments like stop losses to curb losses. Sure, you’ll pay trading fees, but if the market tanks, your nest egg will only have dropped to your stop loss point.

– You want to take a risk, but don’t want to bet on a single company. Because some ETFs emulate sectors of the market, you can gain exposure to precious metals, commodities and other risky asset classes without betting the farm on a single stock, bond or commodity. Sure, you can do this with mutual funds also, but with the ability to buy and sell all day long (as described above), ETF investors enjoy a greater degree of flexibility.

– Wrap and low cost trading accounts. If you have an account where you don’t pay for individual trades or pay a minimal amount, trading fees on ETFs are no longer a bridle on your results.

So, minions, that’s our Exchange Traded Fund lesson for the day.  Here’s my question to you: If you use exchange traded funds in your portfolio, how do you deploy them? Why do you like them? If you don’t use ETFs, it may be a marvelous idea to read the comments and see if some of our brilliant readers have additional ideas. Enjoy!