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Your Wealth: What You Shouldn’t Do

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Establish an emergency fund, pay down debt, save for retirement, and grow your wealth! Much of your financial life is focused on the things you should do.

However, what I think to be more important are the things you shouldn’t do!

Educational Debt

There’s been a lot of literature/news over the last few years about how much of a problem student loan debt is. As of 2018, total student loan debt was $1.47 trillion. With a T! (Source)

That said, here are some things you should avoid.

  • Taking on too much – Some degrees/professions require a lot of schooling, which can lead to large amounts of student loan debt. And I don’t mean to speak ill of any degrees/professions, but if your desired career requires a “basic” 4-year degree, it’s probably best to find an in-state university to cut costs. Better yet, start at a local 2-year university or tech school until your Gen. Eds. are complete, then transfer.
  • Not having a plan for after – I think this is a common fear for Millennials and Gen Z, but you have so much time to figure things out. Don’t just go to college to get a degree. If you need time, take time. Once you figure out what you want, determine what you need to do to get there.
  • Not researching options – There are SO many student loan options. Depending on what type of loan you choose (private or public), you could have a wide range of payback methodologies. I wrote about student loan options and payback options in two previous posts. Check them out!

Credit cards

There are two BIG problems with credit cards. People who use them irresponsibly and people who don’t use them at all.

  • Using irresponsibly – This one pretty much speaks for itself. This pertains to people who spend way more than they ought to. A good rule of thumb is to only buy something using a credit card if you have the funds readily available to pay the balance off. Don’t have the money, don’t put it on the card. Doing so will cost you in interest and can really set you back.
  • Not using at all – Better than the first point, but still not great. Using a credit card can help your financial situation if you use it correctly. Most of them have rewards of some sort. It’s another credit account on your report. Charging and paying off right away establishes a good payment history. All good things for your credit score.

No emergency fund

Establishing an emergency fund is Step 1. If you don’t have money set aside for unexpected expenses, you’ll have to charge it. This leads to the point above about irresponsible use.

Save $1,000 for emergencies, turn your attention to high-interest debt (credit cards), and then shift your focus back to your emergency fund once that debt is paid off.

Spending

  • Paying bills late – Not paying your bills on time, especially ones shown on your credit report is a big mistake. The #1 factor in calculating your credit score is payment history. Paying ONE bill late will knock your score down. Just one. Don’t do it.
  • Spending too much – (See irresponsible credit card use) This is especially harmful if you frivolously spend BEFORE taking care of important “budget items”. Things like saving, debt payments, and bills.
  • Being too frugal – Though frugality is helpful in building wealth, it can also hurt you. There comes a point when you are too frugal. A vital life skill is doing things in moderation. If you pinch pennies and forego rewarding yourself, you run the risk of breaking the bank on a “bender”.

Investing

  • Waiting – I cannot stress enough the importance of investing early. What helps you make the most of your retirement savings is compound interest. The more time you have to invest, the more compound interest works in your favor.
  • Panic selling – This is a timely point since the market dropped almost 5 percent in the last week. Selling out of fear is always bad. More often than not, when you “panic sell,” you’ve already experienced the majority of the drawdown. Now, this depends on your particular situation, but it behooves you to stay invested during that period.
  • Using generalities when setting up an investment plan – Your investment plan needs to reflect your goals, risk tolerance, time horizon, and behavior. Using generalities is good for someone who writes about this stuff, but it’s not good for YOU. Your plan has to be tailored to YOU.

Life and Wealth

  • Sticking with a job you hate – Sometimes money and comfort makes us do things we don’t want to do. Being unhappy at your job is not worth it. It’s important, however, to thoroughly think through this decision. Quitting is tough, but if your family counts on you for income, you need to have a plan in place before you jump ship.
  • Comparing yourself to others – I’m going to encourage you to develop a new mindset because society taught us that wealth looks like fancy cars and big houses. I want you to think about stealth wealth. It’s probably my most favorite phrase/term. Someone with stealth wealth lives within their means. They live in a modest home, drive a car for transportation only, but saves more than the average person. They don’t “look” wealthy, but their retirement account says otherwise.

Further reading:

What it takes to be a successful investor

How to pay off credit card debt

Creating a financial plan you can stick to

What It Take To Be A Successful Investor

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What makes a successful investor? Is it your ability to beat the market or to beat your competition?

In my opinion, being a successful investor doesn’t have to do with out-earning your peers or leaving the S&P in the dust. No, my definition is very simple.

Develop an investment plan using a variety of factors, and be able to execute and follow that plan indefinitely.

Suitability

This is step 1. You need to figure out what your “suitability” is. Your suitability will lay a very good foundation upon which you build your investment plan. Suitability involves three things:

  • Risk tolerance – This is your ability to handle drawdowns in your portfolio. If you crumble with fear every time you lose 5 percent, then you’ll probably want a fairly conservative portfolio*. On the other hand, if you have no problem seeing your portfolio drop 50 percent, then you’re ready for a more aggressive allocation.
  • Time horizon – Probably the most important factor of the three. Your time horizon is basically when you’ll need the money. A long time horizon allows an investor to take on more risk because there’s more time for them to recover from drawdowns. The inverse is true for short time horizons. You’ll want to be conservative because you have little time to earn back what’d you lost.
    • Long time horizon – 10+ years
    • Medium time horizon – 2-5 years
    • Short time horizon – Less than 2 years
  • Goals – What’s your plan? Is this savings going to be used as a down payment for a house? If so, there’s probably a minimum dollar amount you have in mind and you’ll want to tip the odds in your favor that you don’t go below that. Similarly, if this is for retirement and you have 30 years to invest, you have the green light for risk assets.

Keep in mind that all three of these things, plus one other, need to be used together when determining your asset allocation. If you are tolerant of risk, but need the money in 5 years, somewhere in the middle between aggressive and conservative is probably better. That one other thing is your behavior as an investor.

Investor behavior

The finance/investment world is coming around to this, but your psychology is a HUGE factor as an investor.

Obtaining a high return on assets is one of your goals, but it should not be the primary goal. When you create an investment plan you have to make sure it’s something you can actually stick with.

I wrote about it previously, here.

You could be tolerant to risk and you could have a long time horizon, but if you lay awake at night every time the market drops, then you need to rethink your approach.

That kind of fear and anxiety hinders your ability to follow your plan. What normally happens, is someone sets an unrealistic investment plan, one where they take on too much risk.

Thereafter, volatility picks up. They check their portfolio and it’s declined 15 percent. They wait a day and check the next.

Another 2 percent drop. Then the thought of 2008 creeps into their heads and the panic sell.

You can set up a great investment plan, but your behavior will ultimately make the decisions. Keep that in mind.

Asset allocation

Using your suitability and behavior, you can then determine your asset allocation. The types of assets you use in your allocation can vary. If you wanted to invest a small percentage of your portfolio in gold, for instance.

The three most common assets are stocks, bonds, and cash. With risks ranging from high risk to virtually (there’s always some risk) no risk.

Speaking very generally, people with long time horizons and are more tolerant of risk, have a more aggressive portfolio. The inverse is true for people with short time horizons and a low-risk tolerance.

That said, the ultimate goal is to develop a plan that meets your goals in the smoothest fashion possible.

Ignore the noise

Throughout your investment “career” you’ll run into people, friends, family, or even random people on the street that will tell you the sky is falling or that the newest IPO will go gang-busters and you need to get in now!

Put your blinders on. There are two things that hurt investors. Their own behavior and their ability, or lack thereof, to tune out what’s happening around them.

This is extremely difficult because we, as humans, have evolved to use our peers to compare or judge, our standing in society.

Stay in your lane and focus on your goals.

Never stop learning

Every single experience in your life is a learning opportunity, especially the bad one. I recommend journaling daily, recount your day, and dig little nuggets of knowledge from your experiences.

Additionally, take in some form of content every day that improves your understanding in your line of work, or in an industry that you’re interested in.

With regard to your finances, give our Toolkit page a look. There you’ll find a number of books and resources to enhance your financial know-how.

Please be advised: Everything written in this article is for informational purposes only and should not be taken as investment advice. Opinions are my own and do not reflect the opinions of this publisher or my employer.

Further reading:

The Psychology Of Money

 

Strategies For Improving Your Credit Score

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Your credit score is extremely important, nowadays. It determines whether or not you qualify for other credit accounts, and if so, what terms. It plays a factor in where you live, and it can even impact job opportunities.

That said, it’s crucial you do everything you can to improve and keep your score high.

What impacts your score?

There are five factors that play a role in calculating your credit score. They are listed below with percentages to discern how big of a role each one plays.

  1. Payment history (35%) – How frequently do you make on-time payments. This number should be 100%
  2. Credit utilization (30%) – How much credit have you used compared to how much you have available. For example, if you have $20,000 of credit available and used $5,000, you have a utilization rate of 25%. Credit rating agencies want to see it below 30%, but the lower, the better.
  3. Credit age (15%) – How old are your current credit accounts? The older, the better. This means that every time you open a new credit account, your credit age drops.
  4. Types of credit (10%) – Credit cards, loans, student loans, etc. Variety helps here.
  5. Number of credit inquiries (10%) – Hard credit inquiries negatively affect your score. Like the utilization, low numbers are better.

(Source)

What hurts your score

There are a few things that negatively impact your score. I’ll list the bad things from the list above, then I’ll list a few others.

  • Poor payment history – If your payment history is below 100%, you’re already starting from behind. Anything under 100% gets notched down.
  • High utilization rate – As I said, rating agencies want to see utilization rates under 30%, so anything over that will bring your score down.
  • Low credit age – Older accounts are better for your score
  • Only one type of credit account
  • A large number of credit inquiries
  • Bankruptcy – Negatively affects your credit score and stays on your credit report for 10 years.
  • Liens and judgments taken out against you – Negatively affects your score and stays on your report for 7 years

Starting from a low score

If you are starting from a lower score, it could be from past experiences (bankruptcy or liens), and if that’s the case, you can only improve. Unfortunately, time is your enemy right now until those drop off.

The first place I would start is to pay off your current debt. If you don’t have any open credit accounts, the next step is to open one.

Individuals with low scores will have trouble opening credit accounts, so I would start with a secured credit card.

A secured credit card is like a regular one, except you establish the credit limit with a deposit. The amount of your deposit is the amount of your limit.

This is a slow and steady way to improve your payment history and show the credit rating agency that you’re responsible.

Current credit accounts

Speaking generally, I advise people to keep their credit accounts open. The one exception is you do plan on closing a credit account, make it one you recently set up.

Getting rid of a new account will increase your credit age, which should increase your score.

New credit accounts

If you’re looking to increase your score, I’d recommend abstaining from opening any new accounts, unless you’re someone that needs to open that secured credit card to rebuild your score.

The other two exceptions would be opening an account for a credit card balance transfer or a personal loan for debt consolidation.

Opening new accounts hurt twice. One, you effectively lower your credit age. And two, when you apply for a credit account, it counts as a hard credit inquiry.

Don’t do it unless you have to, and if the long-term benefits outweigh the short-term penalties.

Pay down debts

Paying down debt is a slow way to improve your credit score, but it’s a tremendous way to improve your finances overall.

Less debt means less money needed to service that debt. Less debt means a lower utilization rate (number 2 factor).

Also, when you make debt payments [on time], you’re strengthening your payment history (number 1 factor).

I recently wrote an article, linked here, about paying down debts. Give it a read. In that article, you’ll also find helpful resources on similar topics.

Utilities

The last thing I would do is check to make sure your utility provider (for me, my local municipality has its own utility company) is listed on your credit report.

My previous utility company (WE Energies) did come up on my credit report. It’s another “credit type” and another way to strengthen your payment history.

Further reading:

Save Money on Legal Fees

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Don’t get me wrong – when you need legal advice, cheaper is not always better. Shopping for an attorney by price alone may not be the best strategy when you are facing important, life-changing events such as a criminal charge, a serious personal injury, or a difficult divorce. Nevertheless,  you can save yourself some money by following a few of these tips.

  1. Don’t assume that the largest law firm in town is the best. Large law firms tend to charge more than small firms and sole practitioners. If your legal needs don’t involve large corporate mergers, international business deals, or complex class action litigation, you may not need to hire a law firm whose billing rate starts at $500 per hour. Look for a smaller local firm that may be able to offer more personalized service while billing at a much more affordable rate.
  2. Sign up for a free consultation. Not all lawyers offer free consultations, but many do, especially those in the personal injury field. If you are in upstate New York and need a Niagara Falls personal injury lawyer, you may want to talk to more than one firm before you choose the one that is right for you. Be sure to ask about their fee schedule and the possible costs that could be involved with your case.  If you’re Virginia, consider ReidGoodwin personal injury lawyers. They’re a solid Richmond based firm and will do a good job for you.
  3. Be wary of slick TV ads. If you are injured by a medical device or product, you have probably seen ads on television for lawyers who handle cases like yours. You may even receive advertisements in the mail from law firms who want your business. Look at the fine print – Usually, the law firms that advertise on TV have to hire local attorneys to handle cases in your state, so why not eliminate the middleman? If you are in Massachusetts, for example, only a Massachusetts attorney may represent you in a Massachusetts court. Find an attorney in your state who has experience in the type of litigation you may need.
  4. Make sure you really need an attorney. Some states allow non-attorneys to handle certain tasks, like title searches and real estate closings. These services may be less expensive through a title company or other authorized provider.
  5. Remember: When you are being billed by the hour, the clock starts ticking as soon as your attorney picks up the phone, or as soon as you walk into his/her office. There is nothing wrong with that, but you have some control over how long your meetings and phone calls will take. Don’t waste your attorney’s time. In a divorce matter, for example, you do not want to pay $250 per hour to make your attorney listen to petty complaints about your spouse. Save that for your friends. Your attorney needs to know facts that are relevant to your case. Try to separate those from petty annoyances that will have no significance to your final outcome.

Write down a list of questions before you talk to your attorney. The less time you spend talking aimlessly while trying to remember what you wanted to ask, the less expensive your visit or phone call will be.

Don’t ask your lawyer to do tasks that you might be able to do. If you need to produce bank statements, for example, you can get them yourself rather than paying your attorney to do it. Ask your attorney if there is anything you can do; if the answer is “no,” then stand back and let him do his job!

How To Cut Your Spending

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Do you know what could really help you reach your financial goals? Answer: If you had more money to work with! Cutting your spending is an integral part of your finances.

I’m not saying you need to cut out the things you love (insert Starbucks coffee, avocado toast, etc.). I’m saying you need to splurge on those things wisely, either by reducing their frequency or cutting out something else.

Let’s figure out ways we can cut our spending.

Track spending

How are you supposed to know what to cut spending on if you don’t know where your money is going?

Go back a few months and look for a “pattern.” Where is all of your money going? Bills, housing, transportation, debt payments, etc. are in their own category. Everything else that’s not considered necessary spending (minus groceries) goes in the discretionary spending category. Everything else that’s not considered necessary spending (minus groceries) goes in the discretionary spending category. Keep in mind, things will change if you’re living in an affordable city like Columbus, Ohio, rather than an expensive place like New York City.

This discretionary spending is what you need to pay attention to.

Grocery spending is necessary, but the amount can vary. Figure out what you typically spend, each month, on groceries and determine if that amount can be lowered. More often than not, it can. Just don’t go hungry.

Budget (and budget alternative)

The classic budget lists the necessary expenses (housing, groceries, debt, utilities, savings, and other bills). You then assign dollar amounts for other “unnecessary” expenses (take-out, clothes, etc.).

The dollar amount is what you’d like to spend on that item/category, and not go over. The purpose of a budget is to come to a total expenditure that’s less than your monthly income.

My approach is similar. I list the necessary expenses (excluding debt payments and savings). Just the things I need to pay (housing, streaming, utilities, insurance, and transportation).

Next is my grocery budget. This is a necessary expense, but I try to keep it relatively low. Between my son and I, the limit is $300 per month. Then I list debt payments and savings.

I calculated how much I needed to pay per month to pay off my debt by a certain date. My savings is automated and partitioned.

I have one savings account for emergencies, one for car repairs, one for holiday spending, and one for vacations. Once a week, money is automatically transferred from my checking to each savings account.

The amount of each transfer is less mathematical and is more about comfort. My retirement savings is done right away at the beginning of the month so I don’t have the chance to spend it away.

Whatever remains is mine to do with as I please.

No spend days

Have one day per week or a few days per month where you don’t spend any money.

I’ve seen some people go as far as having a no spend week! Implement these days at your discretion because obviously, you’ll still want to pay your bills and such.

Another cool idea is to restrict paying for certain items during particular times of the year. For example, you don’t buy any clothes during the month of September, or you don’t have any take-out/restaurant food in April.

Coupons/rewards/etc.

With smartphones, applying coupons to your purchases has never been easier. I use coupons.com. You can save which coupons apply to you and they can be scanned at checkout. From your smartphone!

Also, wherever you do your shopping, make sure you are a member/rewards member. There’s usually a sale for members. Excluding paid memberships (like Costco), being a rewards member is free and can save you money.

By the way, it costs money to shop at Costco, but their goods are very reasonably priced. They make their money on the memberships, and they sell all of their goods at cost. That means they sell a product at whatever price they paid to get it in the store.

Use price per unit/item

When you are making a decision about how much of something you need to buy, always use price per unit as your factor. The overall price of something may look less expensive than the bulk item, and it is at the time of purchase, but more often than not, the price per unit is lower for the bulk item.

It’ll cost you more when you check out, but through time, you’ll spend less money.

Quick hacks to cut expenses

  • Negotiate a lower interest rate on your credit cards
  • Balance transfer to 0% introductory APR
  • Personal loan to lower average credit card APR
  • Unplug unused electrical devices
  • Cancel unused subscriptions
  • Reduce entertainment expenses
  • Carpool to work
  • Keep tires properly inflated (better gas mileage)
  • Use LED light bulbs
  • Use a programmable thermostat
  • Lower the temperature on your hot water heater
  • Eat at home more/eat out less
  • Buy generic

Conclusion

Achieving financial success doesn’t have to be difficult and boring, though it does take some discipline. Small rewards are important. Without them, you’ll go crazy!

Cut the fat off of your budget, and you’ll see how much better it feels to make significant progress in your financial life.

Why I Love The Roth IRA

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The Roth IRA started in 1997 and it changed the retirement savings game.

It’s probably my most recommended retirement savings vehicle, other than your employer-sponsored plan of course. You have to get that match!

The Roth IRA can be your primary retirement account or a nice complement to a work-based plan.

Here’s why I love the Roth IRA.

Tax-free withdrawals! That’s right, if you save for retirement using the Roth IRA, you get to take that tax-deferred (don’t pay taxes while money grows) savings out of your account without paying taxes.

While you’re working, you generally have two options (besides contributing to your 401k or Simple IRA) do I contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA? The amount of money you make plays a little bit of a factor, as the Roth IRA has an income limit ($137,000 – single, $203,000 – married filing jointly).

However, a back-door contribution is available. That’s where you make a contribution to a traditional IRA and roll the money from there into a Roth IRA. Be advised: You’ll be taxed at the time of the rollover.

That aside, contributions to a traditional IRA are tax-deductible (an income limit applies here). Conversely, contributions to a Roth IRA are not tax deductible.

Here’s why I like to recommend the Roth. I’d save for retirement, without getting that tax-deduction and pay $0 taxes upon withdrawal in retirement. At that point in time, your ability to earn more money is either dramatically reduced or gone completely.

It’s at this point when you need that money the most. I’d rather pay for it now and benefit from it later.

With all that said, I suppose I should list all the characteristics of a Roth IRA.

  • For 2019, the contribution limit is $6,000. If you are 50 or older, you can contribute an extra $1,000. Be advised: these contributions limits change often. Consult the IRS website for up to date information.
  • Because the money in the account was already taxed, there are no mandatory withdrawals. Uncle Sam got his cut already so you can let that baby grow for as long as you want.
  • If you withdraw before 59 1/2, you’ll pay a 10% tax penalty
  • There are exceptions to this penalty, however.
    • Death
    • Disability
    • Use up to 10% on your first home purchase
    • Pay for higher education
    • Medical costs are more than 7.5% of your AGI
    • Can pay health insurance premiums if you’re unemployed
    • The IRS has a tax levy against you
  • You can make contributions for the prior “tax” year up to April 15th.
  • If you withdraw your savings within 5 years of your first contribution, you’ll pay some taxes on your withdrawal.
    • Note: The 5-year clock starts ticking on January 1st of the year you made your first contribution

Conclusion

As I said, the Roth IRA is a great savings vehicle. Whether you use it on its own or use it as a complement to an employer-sponsored plan, it has a place in everybody’s retirement plan.

One last thing I want to mention. My reasoning behind why I recommend the Roth IRA so often is my personal belief. Please use your situation and your money/retirement philosophy when making this decision. It also pays to talk to a professional to see what they’re thoughts are, as well.

What is the Coverdell ESA?

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Introducing the last account type on our quest to find the best way to save for college, the Coverdell ESA.

Without further delay, here’s what you need to know about the Coverdell ESA.

What is it?

Like the 529, the Coverdell ESA is an education savings vehicle for K-12 and secondary education. Coverdell ESA stands for Coverdell Education Savings Account.

It got its name from Senator Paul Coverdell, who introduced the legislation for a similar account, the Education IRA. In 2002, a new piece of legislation was introduced to make the account what it is today.

The 529 and the Coverdell ESA share many of the same characteristics, but there are some things that set it apart. All of these will be listed below.

Advantages

  • Savings and investments in the account grow tax-deferred and are withdrawn tax-free when used for qualified education expenses.
  • When it comes time to withdraw, those funds are not considered income, as long as you are using them for qualified education expenses.
  • Can use in conjunction with other education tax credits, like the Lifetime Learning Credit, as long as there’s no double-dipping.
  • These accounts are self-directed, so your investment options are plentiful. They include…
    • Age-based funds
    • Static mutual funds
    • ETFs
    • Stocks
    • Bonds
    • Real estate

Disadvantages

  • Contribution limit of $2,000 per child per year.
  • The funds inside the account are taken into consideration when you file for financial aid. The assets are considered their parents assets.
  • If the money is not withdrawn from the account by the time the beneficiary is 30, they could be subject to taxes and penalties.
    • After 30, the funds inside the account become fully taxable and you’re penalized 10%.
  • Like the 529, contributions to this account are not tax-deductible.

Unique Characteristics

  • Only eligible to families/individuals that fall below an income threshold ($110,000 for single taxpayers and $220,000 for couples who file jointly).
  • The contribution limit is $2,000 per child per year, so even if a family member opens an account for your child, you still can’t go over that number, or there will be a penalty.
  • Qualified expenses include…
    • Tuition
    • Books
    • Supplies
    • Equipment
    • Tutoring
    • Special needs services
  • And can also include…
    • Room and board
    • Uniforms
    • Supplementary and transportation services
  • With a 529, the account owner has control over the assets. Conversely, with a Coverdell ESA, the beneficiary has control.

Conclusion

Effectively, there are three education savings vehicles used today. The UTMA/UGMA, Coverdell ESA, and the 529 plan. I’ve written about the other two in the past so go check those out.

On paper, the 529 looks like the best option, with a high contribution limit, a large number of qualified expenses, and there’s no penalty for letting funds sit for decades.

That is all true, and honestly, I prefer the 529, but the vast, vast majority of people that are helping their children save for college will not come close to the high contribution limit.

The only drawback to the Coverdell ESA is the penalty if the funds aren’t used before 30. Other than that, I don’t think the $2,000 contribution limit is a factor because most people can’t put that much away, anyway. Not without sacrificing their ability to save for retirement, as well.

That said, they’re both great options and you can’t go wrong with either one.

What Is A 529 Plan?

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Education, especially secondary education, is getting more and more expensive. The cost of a 4-year public university has gone up 110% from 1994 to 2014 (Source).

Conversely, wages have grown an astounding 8 times slower than that (Source).

What can you do to save for college? How can you help your kids? Are there certain vehicles that work better than others?

We’ll take a look at one of those in the following article.

What is a 529?

A college savings plan that is exempt from federal taxes, if you use the funds to pay for qualified education-related expenses.

Those expenses include tuition, books, room and board, computer equipment, and necessary supplies for students with special needs, as long as the student is attending at least half-time.

Advantages

  • Funds can be used for K-12, university, graduate school, and trade schools.
  • Parents can withdraw $10,000 per student per year to pay for tuition ONLY.
  • Other people, besides the account owner, can contribute to a 529 plan.
  • If funds are used for the beneficiary you intended, they can be transferred to a family member.
  • Earnings grow tax-deferred

Disadvantages

  • Gift tax exclusions – You are exempt from paying gift taxes if you keep it under $15,000 per individual per year, or $75,000 as lump sum every 5 years.
  • A penalty of 10% will be assessed for funds used on non-qualified expenses.
  • Limited investment options – most plans offer mutual funds as investments
    • Risk-based – Aggressive, moderate, conservative, etc.
    • Age-based – You can select an age-based fund from the get-go, and the fund company will reallocate into new funds as your child gets older.
    • Self-selected

Miscellaneous

  • All plans come with federal tax advantages, but some states offer tax deductions and credits as well!
  • Every dollar in a 529 plan will deduct 5.6% from your family’s need-based financial aid
    • One way around that is to have a family member act as the custodian for the account, so it isn’t in your name
    • However, once the child begins withdrawing the funds and is still attending school, they could have 50% of their financial aid withheld because those withdrawals are considered income
  • You can open one using other state’s plans, besides your own state

Other types of accounts

  • Coverdell ESA – Similar to the 529 in that you use the funds to pay for education-related expenses, However, there is an annual contribution limit of $2,000 per beneficiary, and there’s also an income restriction (once you make above a certain amount, you can no longer contribute to a Coverdell ESA).
  • UTMA/UGMA – Stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act/Uniform Gift to Minors Act. I’ve written about this in the past, so if you’d like to learn more, check out the article here.
  • IRA – You can use a Traditional IRA or a Roth IRA to pay for education expenses. Similar to the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, the expenses must be qualified and the student must go to a qualified institution, as indicated by the Department of Education. The most beneficial way to use an IRA is to withdraw the funds from a Roth IRA, but only withdraw what you contributed.

Conclusion

Secondary education is expensive! If you start saving for your kids’ college right away, the compounding returns could really help you save a decent amount.

It’s important to use the right vehicle, and, in my opinion, there’s no better option than the 529.

If you’d like to learn more about paying for college, read this article here. Or if you’re a future or current student that need some finance tips, read this one here.

Be advised: Investments in 529 plans involve risks to principal and may involve additional fees such as enrollment charges and annual maintenance fees. 529 plans offer no guarantees. There are exceptions to the gift tax and estate tax exemptions; please contact a qualified tax, legal, or financial advisor for more information prior to investing.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Why Do Interest Rates Matter?

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I was running through my normal Google alerts yesterday and saw a headline that said, “Do interest rates matter?”

My answer is an emphatic YES!

Of course, interest rates matter. It determines how much you pay and how much you get paid!

When you borrow

Whether you’re talking a mortgage, an auto loan, a business loan, or a credit card, you are charged an interest rate when you borrow money.

For example, the average mortgage rate right now is a shade under 4.5%. In 1981, that same rate got to over 18%. To put these numbers into context, here’s a comparison of the same mortgage with different rates.

Loan amount $250,000. Interest rate 4.5%. 30-year fixed rate. Monthly payment – $1,266.71. Total amount paid after 30 years – $456,015.60.

That same mortgage with an 18% interest rate translates into a $3,767.71 monthly payment, and a total amount paid after 30 years – $1,356,375.60.

Obviously, these are extreme examples, but you get my point.

Just 3 years ago, mortgage rates were a full percentage point lower, until the Federal Reserve started to increase interest rates.

The same goes for credit cards. That 18% mortgage rate from ‘81 is close to the average credit card interest rate today. If you’re using credit cards to buy things you can’t afford, you’re definitely paying for it.

When you save

If you are responsible with your money and are able to save it, you should be rewarded for that behavior. Interest rates are creeping higher now, but a year or two ago you were getting paid next to nothing on your savings account.

When interest rates increase, so does the money you earn from your savings.

The Federal Reserve

The FED sets the tone. They raise or lower the Federal Funds Rate and that has a ripple effect on all the other interest rates in the financial system.

They have a tough job, as you can see currently because they have to raise rates enough to keep inflation at bay but keep them low enough as not to cause a recession.

You see, when the FED raises interest rates, all rates that are classified as variable (on existing debt) go up. The most common example is credit cards. As credit card rates increase, so does the cost of servicing those outstanding balances (minimum payments go up).

As people’s debt gets more expensive to service, the number of defaults (failure to make adequate payments) goes up. This will create a domino effect and can bring the economic system to a halt.

This is similar to what happened in 2008, although on a much larger scale. And 2008 wasn’t caused by frivolous spending, it was caused by finance executives giving mortgages to people who couldn’t afford them, as well as signing poorly structured loans that were affordable in the beginning, but became unaffordable a short while later.

Approaching recession

When The Great Financial Crisis happened, the FED lower interest rates to 0%. This encouraged financial institutions to lend money, and incentivized businesses and individuals to borrow money.

People who borrow, spend, and people who spend help grow the economy.

Here’s our current problem. The Federal Funds Rate is currently at 2.5%. When the economy experiences a recession, in order to encourage borrowing and spending to get the economy out of the recession, the FED needs to cut rates by at least 4 percentage points (I got this number from Dr. James Rickards).

The Trump Administration and other parties are calling for the FED to cut rates to continue the current expansion.

The only problem is this expansion will have to come to an end at some point, and when it does (if rates don’t increase) the FED won’t be able to cut rates enough to help the economy.

Conclusion

I’ll say it again. Interest rates matter.

If you’d like to learn more about this topic and for my disclosures, please visit CRG Financial Services.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

What are UGMA and UTMA accounts?

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What is a UGMA account? What is a UTMA account? How are they different? What is the purpose of using one over other savings vehicles?

We’re going to dive into those questions and a few others in the following piece.

What are they?

The UTMA and the UTMA are custodial accounts. An adult (the custodian) opens an account for the benefit of a minor.

UTMA stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act. UGMA stands for Uniform Gift to Minors Act. The difference has to do with the age of majority, but more on that later.

Characteristics

For all intents and purposes, these accounts are treated the same. As I said, an adult opens the account for the benefit of a minor.

The account itself does not have a limit of how much you can contribute to it, however, there is a gift tax exclusion for the custodian or anyone else that contributes to the account. While I’m here, I should mention that anyone can put money into the account, not just the custodian.

Anyway, the gift tax exclusion is $15,000 per recipient. If the person doing the gifting this amount, they could owe the gift tax.

As far as the age of the majority goes, generally the UGMA is 18 and the UTMA is 21. However, every state is different, so make sure you check to see what the age of majority is in your state.

Prior to the age of majority, the minor is unable to use the funds in the account UNLESS it’s for the benefit of said minor. Once they hit the age of majority, they can use the funds however they want.

Disadvantages

Two of the more common vehicles for education savings are the 529 plan and the Coverdell ESA. Now, I’m not going to go into those two, but they each share one key advantage. Any funds withdrawn for education-related expenses, come out tax-free.

The UTMA/UGMA does not have this capability. What’s more, the taxes on any capital gains made and/or dividends received throughout the year must be paid by the minor.

Also, funds sitting in a UTMA/UGMA, for the sake of the FAFSA, are considered the minor’s assets, and can negatively affect financial aid.

Advantages

There’ve been a lot of negatives so far, and if I’m being honest, there are other savings vehicles available that have more advantages.

The one thing I can think of as an advantage is accessibility.

With the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, any funds not used for education-related expenses are subject to a penalty.

With a UGMA/UTMA, the beneficiary can use the funds for anything that benefits them (while they’re a minor), or they can use them for anything at all once they’ve hit the age of majority.

Conclusion

If you are looking for accounts that are designed around saving for college, then a UTMA/UGMA is not for you. However, if you are looking for an account that is easy to set up, easy to use, and gives you more control, then I definitely would recommend utilizing one.

To make a formal recommendation, I’d go with the UTMA. Again, depending on your state’s rules, this enables you to save more for the beneficiary and prolongs when they can have access to those funds.

If you have any questions about what was said here and for my disclosures, go to my website.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.