Jacob Sensiba, Author at The Free Financial Advisor

Jacob Sensible is a financial advisor with decades of experience in the financial planning industry. His journey into finance began out of necessity, stepping up to support his grandfather during a health crisis. This period not only grounded him in the essentials of stock analysis, investment strategies, and the critical roles of insurance and trusts in asset preservation but also instilled a comprehensive understanding of financial markets and wealth management. Jacob can be reached at: jake.sensiba@mygfpartner.com.

What are UGMA and UTMA accounts?

May 8, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

What is a UGMA account? What is a UTMA account? How are they different? What is the purpose of using one over other savings vehicles?

We’re going to dive into those questions and a few others in the following piece.

What are they?

The UTMA and the UTMA are custodial accounts. An adult (the custodian) opens an account for the benefit of a minor.

UTMA stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act. UGMA stands for Uniform Gift to Minors Act. The difference has to do with the age of majority, but more on that later.

Characteristics

For all intents and purposes, these accounts are treated the same. As I said, an adult opens the account for the benefit of a minor.

The account itself does not have a limit of how much you can contribute to it, however, there is a gift tax exclusion for the custodian or anyone else that contributes to the account. While I’m here, I should mention that anyone can put money into the account, not just the custodian.

Anyway, the gift tax exclusion is $15,000 per recipient. If the person doing the gifting this amount, they could owe the gift tax.

As far as the age of the majority goes, generally the UGMA is 18 and the UTMA is 21. However, every state is different, so make sure you check to see what the age of majority is in your state.

Prior to the age of majority, the minor is unable to use the funds in the account UNLESS it’s for the benefit of said minor. Once they hit the age of majority, they can use the funds however they want.

Disadvantages

Two of the more common vehicles for education savings are the 529 plan and the Coverdell ESA. Now, I’m not going to go into those two, but they each share one key advantage. Any funds withdrawn for education-related expenses, come out tax-free.

The UTMA/UGMA does not have this capability. What’s more, the taxes on any capital gains made and/or dividends received throughout the year must be paid by the minor.

Also, funds sitting in a UTMA/UGMA, for the sake of the FAFSA, are considered the minor’s assets, and can negatively affect financial aid.

Advantages

There’ve been a lot of negatives so far, and if I’m being honest, there are other savings vehicles available that have more advantages.

The one thing I can think of as an advantage is accessibility.

With the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, any funds not used for education-related expenses are subject to a penalty.

With a UGMA/UTMA, the beneficiary can use the funds for anything that benefits them (while they’re a minor), or they can use them for anything at all once they’ve hit the age of majority.

Conclusion

If you are looking for accounts that are designed around saving for college, then a UTMA/UGMA is not for you. However, if you are looking for an account that is easy to set up, easy to use, and gives you more control, then I definitely would recommend utilizing one.

To make a formal recommendation, I’d go with the UTMA. Again, depending on your state’s rules, this enables you to save more for the beneficiary and prolongs when they can have access to those funds.

If you have any questions about what was said here and for my disclosures, go to my website.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

Saving Money With Regular Maintenance

May 1, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

When was the last time you exercised, had your furnace worked on, or had your oil changed? Performing regular maintenance, in any part of your life, can be quite annoying at times, but it can really make a difference.

The difference can come in the form of money saved, longevity, and/or decreased stress. That said, let’s look into why maintenance is important.

Health

As a nation, the United States is unhealthy. We put junk food into our bodies and lead a sedentary lifestyle that is causing more problems than gaining weight.

Not only is physical exercise good for your body, with benefits like preventing bone loss, increasing muscle strength, improving coordination and balance, and reducing your risk of cardiovascular disease, but it also helps your mind.

Just over half of all Americans are meeting the physical aerobic exercise requirement (Source). The requirement is either 150 minutes of moderate aerobic activity per week or 75 minutes of vigorous aerobic activity per week. Not a lot, right?

Americans spend $3.4 trillion per year on healthcare (Source), and I believe this number could drop dramatically if we all just took better care of ourselves.

Bottom line, regular exercise, and a well-balanced diet can (depending on other genetic risk factors, etc.) can dramatically reduce your long-term healthcare costs.

Home

Regular maintenance of your home has a number of benefits.

It saves you money because all the mechanical components are running optimally. Efficient use of utilities is less expensive. It also increases the longevity of that equipment.
Maximizes your home’s value and resale potential
Peace of mind knowing your home is well-cared for. Stress has negative health effects. Reducing it can improve your health and lower healthcare-related costs.

Car

Keeping your car in optimal running condition will extend its life. It also makes the vehicle more safe to operate because the odds that something breaks while driving is reduced.

A poorly tuned vehicle can use up to 50% more fuel (Source). Spending $50-$100 every three months on an oil change is definitely worth it.

For example, let’s say you fill up once per week at $25. Over a three month period, you’d normally spend $325 on gas. If you’re driving a poorly tuned vehicle, you’ll spend $487.50. Over 1 year, that’s a difference of over $600.

Budget

Creating a budget and regularly checking in to make sure that a) you’re sticking with it and b) it’s still appropriate.

Often when people start budgeting, they find themselves with more money to play with. If they have outstanding debt, they can use that extra money to pay it off.

This could free up more cash that can be used for saving, investing, or getting that cable TV back.

Another thing you should do is cut or eliminate expenses that are otherwise unnecessary. The average American spends almost half of their food budget on eating out (Source).

Investing

This section will revolve around asset allocation and not about picking stocks and the like, specifically, in ones’ retirement plan.

If you have a retirement plan (you really should) my advice is to allocate your assets according to your risk tolerance, time horizon, and comfort level (from a psychological perspective).

If you have a retirement plan through your employer, I strongly recommend utilizing a target-date fund. This takes the worry and the guesswork out of the equation.

Where was I, oh yeah, asset allocation? Unless we’re in a bear market, your stock allocation will do better than your bond allocation.

Over time, the stock part of your portfolio will take up a larger share of your overall portfolio. It’s wise to regularly (though opinions differ) to rebalance back to your original allocation, otherwise, you risk being more aggressive than you intended.

Conclusion

Whether you’re talking about your home, car, or anything else, regular maintenance can save you a lot of money.

Please visit our website to learn more and for our disclosures.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

Creating A Financial Plan You Can Stick To

April 24, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

The more I read and the more I meet with people, the more I realize that setting up a financial plan is more than dollars and cents.

Yes, the better financial plans have your typical items. Save this much, invest in these things, and contribute to this retirement plan.

But the best plans not only have this to take care of your financial needs but they’re also set up in a way that your psychological needs are met as well.

Can you stick with it?

The best plan is anyone that you can stick with. When setting up your plan, go through it slowly. Take each item one step at a time and consider possible scenarios when determining a particular section.

For example, when setting up a plan for your emergency fund, figure out what’s realistic for how much you’ll need and how long it will take you to get there.

Also, figure out how it will be replenished if/when it’s ever used. Perhaps you’ll have an automatic deposit setup indefinitely?

Another thing to keep in mind is including some flexibility in your plan. For example, if part of the process is setting up a budget and your weakness is eating takeout, include a little bit of money for it.

I generally advocate for eating your meals at home, but if it’s inevitable that you’ll go out to eat, it’s better to include a little bit of it, rather than trying to avoid it.

Will you gasp every time the market dips?

Investing is a vital part of your financial plan. Investing is what helps your savings grow, but at times, your investments can lose value.

Our psychology plays a big role in our success as an investor. It’s said that we experience the pain of a loss two times stronger than we experience the joy of a gain.

That said, you need to plan accordingly to keep your emotions in check. If you let them take control of your decisions, you could end up selling your investments after you’ve already lost value, at which point it may be better for you to stay in.

Most investable assets are in a retirement plan of some sort, so your time horizon is, more than likely, long-term. 20+ years for instance. Your risk tolerance is the other part to take into consideration.

How much are you willing to lose until you say, uncle? In a six month period, would you have to sell after you lost 10%, 20%, 30%, or more? Your answer to this will help determine what you are able to stomach.

The next thing to do is to stress test your portfolio. The popular investing/research websites will have this. You plug in your portfolio with dollar amounts and ticker symbols, and then (depending on the site) you can select a variety of scenarios to see how your portfolio would do during that scenario.

The 2008 Financial Crisis is a common one.

Conclusion

Creating a financial plan that has the potential to meet your goals is important, and having a plan that you’re comfortable with and one that will help you sleep at night is optimal.

Make sure, when you are developing your plan, that you are factoring in your behavior as an investor and as a human. We are emotional creatures, and that makes investing a little more difficult.

If you’d like to learn more about what was discussed here and for our disclosures, visit our website.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

How To Pump Up Your Finances

April 17, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

By “pump up,” I mean to do something that improves your financial situation in any way. Reduce expenses, start a rainy day fund, invest for the future, etc.

With that said, let’s take a look at some simple strategies to pump up your finances.

Cut the fat

I’d start by creating a budget. Look at the past three months of income and expenses. Total the expenses, total your income and compare the two. This will give you a clear picture of how much you are spending versus how much you make.

After that, you can go back with a magnifying glass and see exactly where your money is going, and stop spending money where it is necessary, or at least reduce it.

You can also reduce the fees you pay to invest. Mutual funds and ETFs are the most popular vehicles used today, but they come with a cost. It’s listed as an expense ratio. That ratio should be as low as possible. Ideally, it’ll be under .20%.

A quick tip to cut your expenses – get rid of cable/dish. There are too many services available now. You don’t need to spend $100+ on TV anymore.

Increase savings rate

Hopefully, you are saving something. If you are having trouble setting money aside because of limited resources, give this article a read for some help.

You should be saving in at least two places. An emergency fund and a retirement plan.

Emergency fund – Say you are contributing $20 per month. This is a good place to start, but you’re going to want to save more so you have enough in case your car breaks down or you lose your job. After three months of saving $20/month. Increase that amount by $5. After another three months, at which point you’ll have gotten used to not having that extra $5, increase it again. Rinse and repeat.
Retirement plan – If you have a retirement plan with your employer and they match, you’ll want to contribute at least enough to get that match. That’s your starting point. Then you’ll follow the same steps as the emergency fund. After a few months, increase the contribution percentage. If you don’t have a plan with your employer, set up an IRA, start contributing what’s comfortable for you, and follow those same steps.

I mentioned you should have AT LEAST these two accounts. Personally, I have several savings accounts. They are set up for different reasons. I have one for holiday spending, one for car repairs, and one for travel expenses. Giving your money a “job” makes it more likely that you’ll use that money for that “job.”

Switch to an online bank

Most online banks have higher interest rates on savings accounts. They also, typically, have lower rates on loans (based on credit score).

If you are saving money for a rainy day and putting it with a brick and mortar bank, you’re most likely earning next to nothing. Better to put that money in an account where you’ll earn a little interest.

Refinance high-interest rate loans

I’m going to dedicate this section to credit cards because that’s what most people think of when they hear high-interest rates.

There are three strategies you can use.

Balance transfer – Many credit card companies offer a 0% APR on balance transfers for a certain period of time. Some have terms for 21 months. The interest rate will jump after the 21st month, though, so make sure your balance is paid off before then.
Personal loan – If you have credit card debt and don’t, or can’t, utilize a 0% balance transfer, then a personal loan is your next option. You get a loan for the total amount of outstanding credit card debt. Then the institution will send a payment to each credit card company and pay off your credit card debt. You’ll be left with one payment. Be advised, credit matters here (also for balance transfers) so if the interest rate on the personal loan is higher than the average interest rate of your credit cards, don’t do it.
The last option is to call the credit card company and ask for a lower rate. More often than not, if it’s available, they’ll give it to you. It won’t lower your payment a whole lot, but it’ll definitely help.

If you want to learn more about credit cards, click here.

Improve your credit

Your credit score makes a difference. It can impact what loans you qualify for, the interest rate, where you live, and where you work.

If you want to start making moves in your financial life, you need to improve your credit.

There are three really simple ways to do this.

Pay more than the minimum on your outstanding debt and pay on time – on time payments is the #1 factor when calculating your score.
Call your utility company and see if they report to the credit agency. It’ll count as another credit account (a factor) and it’ll influence your on-time payments.
Open a secured credit card – You open this type of card with a deposit. The deposit will act as your credit limit. If you deposit $500, you’ll have a credit limit of $500. Make regular, small purchases and pay the entire balance right away. Credit agencies like to so activity and, as I’ve said, on-time payments.

If you want to learn more about improving your credit, click here.

Conclusion

If you want to improve your financial life, it’s actually pretty straight forward. Spend less than you make, save money for the future, pay down debt, and improve your credit. If you do these four things (obviously, easier said than done), goals that once seemed far fetched, can be within reach.

Please visit my website for our disclosures.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

A Few Tax Tips Suitable for Anyone

April 10, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

Seeing as how next Monday is tax day, I thought it would be fitting to write about taxes. This article will have little to do with income taxes, however.

Instead, I’ll be focusing on the taxability of retirement accounts and brokerage accounts.

Qualified Accounts

A qualified account is pretty much anything that has a tax advantage. Tax advantage simply means that the investments inside the account grow tax-deferred – you aren’t taxed on the growth within the account, and/or the money can be withdrawn tax-free.

There are several different kinds of qualified accounts. Instead of listing them all, I’m going to list a few of the common ones and link to an article containing all the accounts and what they’re about.

401k – The most common employer-sponsored retirement account. It’s not offered by all employers, but the money going into the account is pre-tax. Additionally, the money grows tax-deferred. However, when withdrawn, the money is taxable as income according to your tax bracket.
Traditional IRA – This is an individual retirement account. This type of account is contributed to using post-tax money, but most people are able to deduct the contribution on their taxes. However, there is a level of income when you no longer qualify for that deduction. The money is taxable when withdrawn as income.
Roth IRA – Also an individual retirement account, but with three key differences. One, the money that’s contributed is not tax-deductible. Two, the money is tax-free when withdrawn. Three, not everyone is eligible to open a Roth IRA once a certain level of income is reached.

Each of these plans has unique characteristics and rules. I encourage you to give this article a read to learn more about them. (Note: income eligibility for IRAs is listed in this article)

Non-qualified accounts

No bells or whistles. These accounts are designed to hold your cash, securities, and give you the ability to invest and trade.

Qualified accounts do the same thing, but have tax-advantages. Non-qualified accounts don’t.

There are usually two types of accounts: individual and joint. An individual account is for one person. A joint account is for two or more.

With a non-qualified account, there are two things you have to pay attention to.

Capital gains/losses – A capital gain is when you sell an investment for more than what you paid for it and a capital loss is the exact opposite. A capital gain comes in two variations. Short-term, which is when you held an investment for less than one year and is taxed at your income tax bracket. Long-term, when you held an investment for longer than one year and is taxed at a reduced tax rate.
Dividends/interest – These are paid by the company or fund and are taxed as income.

Tax return as savings

The last thing I wanted to talk about is your tax return and how you use it/view it. There are three types of returns. When you owe, when you break even, and when you get money back.

What I try to do, and what I generally recommend people do, is get as close to breaking even as you can. This just means you paid about the exact amount in taxes that you should have. No more, no less.

Here’s when I’m okay with people getting money back.

As a collective, we are horrible at saving money. The statistics show it. Now if you go through the year and pay more taxes than you need to and want to use that tax return as a makeshift savings account, then have at it.

My philosophy is if it helps you save money and it works for you, then do it. Some people need that type of set up.

Regular savings account don’t work for everyone because often, they are able to access the money whenever they want/need to. If you’re using your tax return as your savings vehicle, you don’t have that opportunity.

Conclusion

Love it or hate it, taxes are a part of life, and they won’t go away. There are certain strategies and certain accounts you can utilize to help make them more manageable/bearable.

If you’d like to learn more about anything discussed here and for my disclosures, visit my company’s website!

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

How to Make Long-Term Investing Decisions

April 3, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

One of the most valuable attributes of successful investors is being able to stick to their guns and trust their analysis even when the market is tanking.

How do you invest for the long-term? Are there certain strategies and mindsets that can be used to your advantage?

We’ll explain that and more in the following article.

Know what you are willing to risk

Whether you are someone that allocates your assets between a select few mutual funds but are looking to use a small portion of your account to enhance your returns or an investor that owns a handful of stocks, you need to be wary of how much of your total portfolio is in one security/strategy.

With either scenario, the decision of how much of your portfolio you are willing to risk in an individual security is whatever you are comfortable with. Personally, if I were in your position, I wouldn’t use more than 5% in this type of situation.

Taxes matter

If you are investing in a qualified account (tax-advantaged account) taxes don’t really have any effect on whether you should buy or sell something, or what type of security you invest in.

You’re either taxed before you deposit the funds or you pay taxes when you withdraw, otherwise the account grows tax-deferred.

If you’re investing in a non-qualified account (standard brokerage/investment account) the taxes and what securities you invest in, matters.

For example, when you invest in a mutual fund, at the end of the year, that fund will pass capital gains to the investors. It’ll come in similar to a dividend, but a much bigger number (depending on the year). You have to pay taxes on that, just like you would a dividend.

Another example, if you invest in a security and sell it for more than you bought it, you have a capital gain. If you held the security for less than 1 year, it’s a short-term capital gain. If you held it for more than 1 year, it’s a long-term capital gain. A long-term capital gain is taxed at a lower rate than a short-term gain.

Asset allocation is important

Stocks/bonds/cash. They are the three most important asset classes in investing.

I’ve written about stocks and bonds before, but the cliff notes version is stocks are risky and can reward you with high returns. They get hit hard during bear markets.

Bonds are generally less risky so you usually get a lower return. However, they tend to hold up a little better during bear markets.

Depending on where you are in life and what you’re comfortable with determines how much (by percentage) you should have in each asset class.

Someone in their 20s should have almost all stocks and a little in bonds. Maybe 90/10 or 80/20. I’d only recommend cash if they were waiting for a significant pullback and wanted to put money to work at lower prices.

Conversely, someone in their 60s that has less time to make back what they lose, would be much more conservative. Their allocation could be 40/50/10 or somewhere around there.

Keep in mind these are general rules of thumb. The most important thing with any investment is your comfort level. If you are 25 and aren’t comfortable with hanging on to your stocks during a 40% decline, be more conservative.

Fees will eat your returns

There’s no denying that trading fees, advisor fees, and the various other types of fees will reduce your returns over the long-term.

On average, expense ratios on mutual funds are much higher than expense ratios on ETFs. Though I believe paying your advisor their fee (I don’t think it should be higher than 1%) is well worth the expense, not everyone needs an advisor.

If your financial situation is relatively simple, you’re comfortable and confident with how you handle things, and you don’t foresee making any significant changes, then it’s probably not worth it.

However, it might not be a terrible idea to see one every few years to have an objective set of eyes review everything.

What’s your exit strategy?

When you invest in a security, and this is more than just asset allocation, you need to have your exit already planned. Too often, people will invest in a stock, see it climb 10% higher and then fall back down. Instead of selling with a small gain or at cost, they’ll hang onto it in hopes it’ll climb back up, even if it keeps falling.

Our emotions and our behavior is our worst enemy in investing. Having a plan and a strategy in place before you even get started is a great way to help mitigate those things from getting in the way.

Regular contributions

If you have time to ride out down markets and are comfortable with the investments you chose/the asset allocation you picked, then hang onto what you have.

An added bonus is if you are regularly contributing and adding to those positions. In a down market, those securities you invested in will get cheaper. When you regularly invest at lower prices, you effectively lower your average purchase price.

Conclusion

Investing can be very difficult, but it doesn’t have to be. In my opinion, keeping your investment plan as simple as possible paired with a unique ability to keep your emotions out of the equation is a recipe for success.

For more information about investing and for my disclosures, visit www.crgfinancialservices.com.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

Protecting Assets from Probate

March 25, 2019 by Jacob Sensiba 1 Comment

In a time when your loved ones are grieving, often they are tasked with organizing, coordinating, and sometimes fighting over your estate.

Make it easier on them and plan ahead using some of the tools below.

What is Probate?

Probate is the process by which a deceased person’s will is validated, and the general organization and distribution of that person’s estate.

During probate, if a person died with a will, the court validates the will and then formally appoints the person named in the will to direct (executor) the deceased person’s estate. This includes collecting assets, paying any outstanding taxes and debt, and distributing whatever is left to the beneficiaries listed in the will.

If a person died without a will, the court will appoint an executor to collect the assets, pay the taxes and debt, and distribute the remaining assets according to state law. What needs to be done with any real estate is determined by the county that person lived in.

The probate process is expensive, so anything you can do to speed up the process or avoid it, the better. You will go through probate whether you have a will or not, though it takes a lot more time when the individual died without a will.

Transfer on Death Designation

A transfer on death designation also referred to as a payable on death designation, is something you add to an account so your assets immediately go to your beneficiaries when you pass away without having to go through probate.

A TOD designation can be added to a brokerage account, individual stocks and bonds, and bank accounts.

When the individual with the TOD designation passes, the beneficiaries usually have to create an account in their name in order to transfer the assets.

Will

A will is a legal document, usually created by an estate attorney, in which the individual or couple list who will be the executor of the estate, guardianship of any minor children, arrangements for surviving pets, assets and property owned, insurance policies, beneficiaries, and what is to be done with the assets and property when the creators have passes.

A will lists all of the property and assets, even the ones that do not need further instructions for distribution to the beneficiaries (retirement plans, life insurance policies, TOD designated accounts).

Trust

A trust is a legal entity created by an estate attorney where the grantor (person creating the trust) appoints a trustee (or several) to follow the rules of the trust.

In a trust, the grantor can very specifically list what they want to be done with their assets while they are alive and/or when they pass away. They can list each asset separately and which beneficiary receives that asset or they can list them all at once and pick how those assets will be distributed to the beneficiaries.

They also have the ability to dictate how the care and financing for a minor, or a child with disabilities will be implemented.

Trusts are costly to set up but are a very useful estate planning tool. It’s also the only way to avoid probate, as long as the trust is the owner of the assets.

Life insurance proceeds

The majority of the time, life insurance avoids probate. There are two exceptions, however.

If the beneficiary named in the life insurance policy passes away and there are no contingent beneficiaries, the estate will receive the proceeds. The other is if the estate is directly named as the beneficiary.

Joint ownership

There are two types of joint ownership:

With rights of survivorship – when one of the owners dies, the surviving owner receives the decedent’s portion.
Tenants in common – when one of the owners dies, their portion is included in their estate. The other joint owner(s) have no right to that portion.

Conclusion

Probate is time-consuming and expensive. For the sake of your loved ones, namely the ones who will be taking care of things when you pass, plan ahead and make things as easy as possible.

I previously wrote an article about where your money goes when you die that goes into much more detail about wills and trusts. Give it a look.

If you’d like to learn more about estate planning, send me an email! I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Please visit our website for our disclosures.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

How to improve your finances on a low income

September 19, 2018 by Jacob Sensiba Leave a Comment

Improving your financial situation is hard for anybody. It can be even more difficult if you have less to work with.

This is an all too common problem in America, as 78% of full-time workers live paycheck to paycheck (Source). Even scarier, 34% don’t have any money saved whatsoever (Source).

That said, there are steps you can take and resources you can utilize to better your financial picture.

Budget

The first and one of the most important things you should do is, create a budget. This is a great way to figure out where you are at. Here are the steps:

Write down your expenses for the last few months (month-by-month breakdown)
Line items for expenses – housing, utilities, debt, food, transportation, bills, discretionary spending.
Write down your monthly income
Compare the two numbers to see exactly how much you have left over.

Here’s another way to look at it.

Write down your income
Write down your necessary expenses (housing, utilities, bills, transportation, food, debt)
If there is any left over, do you want to save it, pay down more debt, or have fun with it

If there isn’t any left, you need to figure out how to lower your expenses and make adjustments as needed.

Lower expenses

Move closer to work – this should reduce your transportation costs
Take public transportation – much less expensive than driving a car
Walk or ride a bike – if you live close to work, this could save you tons on commuting costs
Move to a less expensive place to live – if you work in a metropolitan area, housing probably isn’t super cheap, look for a cheaper place to live
Shop at discount stores
Shop at thrift stores
Use coupons – Or coupon sites like Coupons.com
Use apps – A great list by LifeHack
Find a side hustle – Again, solid list on BudgetsareSexy
Only buy necessities

Automate

Automating your finances is an important step, though not possible for everyone. If you have a lower income, you may be afraid that the money won’t be in your account for that automatic withdrawal.

Automate what you are comfortable with, or voraciously set reminders. Don’t forget to pay a bill. You can damage your credit score and incur late penalties.

Additionally, having a small transfer from checking to savings once a month can be a great way to save up for emergencies.

Take advantage of social programs

Open a credit card

There’s no denying it, your credit score is important. It determines your interest rate on loans, it can influence where you live, it can even play a factor when applying for a job.

Start small and start slowly. Open up a credit card. Look for one with no annual fee and a great rewards program. Make small, necessary purchases each month and pay them off right away.

Don’t carry a balance month-to-month. Doing this will inevitably cost you money via interest charges. And never miss a payment.

Start an emergency fund

If you don’t have one, set one up today. Having some sort of safety net available is vital. If you don’t have that, you’ll probably charge an emergency expense, which will cost you more money in the long run.

Start small and stay consistent. Contribute a little bit each month or each week to build up that emergency fund.

Get rid of debt

This will have a huge impact on your financial life. Once you are free from debt, you will have more money available for savings, fun money, or for improving your situation in other ways.

There are a few methods to help with debt repayment.

Debt avalanche – This method targets high-interest debt. You will pay the minimum to your other debt accounts and pay as much as you can towards your debt with the highest interest. Once that is paid off, you refocus that money towards the debt with the next highest interest
Debt snowball – This method targets low-balances. You pay the minimum on your other debts and pay as much as you can on the debt with the lowest balance. Once it’s paid off, you redirect that money towards the next lowest balance.
Balance transfer – If you have credit card debt and have a high-interest rate, it may be beneficial to transfer your balance to another card. Many cards have 0% interest, introductory offers on balance transfers.

This will also save you a lot of money on interest payments! Debt is very annoying, and getting rid of it will feel so liberating. Work towards this goal.

Go to the library

There are two ways the library can help you.

One, it’s filled with knowledge. If you want to get a different job, but don’t know much about your target industry, there are resources to help you. If you want to get promoted at your current company, and need to learn about different job roles and responsibilities, you can learn more.

Two, the more time you spend at the library, the less you have to spend at home. You can turn off the heat or air conditioning, and your lights while you are gone. This could drastically lower your utility bill.

Conclusion

One thing I forgot to mention, is the benefit of small rewards. When you are trying to better your financial situation, and are focusing everything on that goal, it can feel discouraging and you can quickly lose motivation.

If you meet a milestone, like paying off a debt account or you cut a balance in half, reward yourself.

Now, don’t go crazy, but a small reward for a job well done can keep you motivated.

You can improve your situation, but it has to be a priority. Do your best to improve a little bit each day. These improvements will compound over time and you’ll be amazed where you stand in a year or two.

If you’d like to learn more about improving your financial situation and for our disclosures, visit www.crgfinancialservices.com.

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

How much do I need in retirement?

August 22, 2018 by Jacob Sensiba 5 Comments

Conventional advice tells you that, for retirement, you need $1 million to $1.5 million saved, or that you need 10 to 12 times your current annual salary.

For example, if you make $100,000 per year, you’ll need $1 million to $1.2 million saved for retirement.

Are these numbers and calculations good enough? Is there a better, more accurate way to figure out what you’ll need to save for retirement?

In this post, we’ll look into that and more.

Check out retirement calculators

There’s a huge number of them out there. I recommend trying a few different ones, that way you can compare and average out the numbers. They’ll ask you things like age, current savings, current income, future contributions, etc.

Here are a few of the better ones.

Using some or all of these calculators, you can probably get a good idea of where you’re at currently, how to improve, and where you’ll need to be at the end.

What are the factors?

There are a variety of different factors at play. You’ll have different expenses and different income levels, and some of those numbers won’t stay steady throughout retirement.

For example, a couple’s health care costs in retirement are said to be $275,000 (Source). However, not all of that will hit you in the first few years of retirement.

More than likely, you’ll have minimal costs in the beginning, and they’ll slowly increase as you age.

Where will you live?

This can be a huge variable in retirement. Its widely known that different areas of the country have a higher cost of living. San Francisco is more expensive than Lincoln, Nebraska.

Another important factor regarding your living situation is if you have a mortgage or not. No mortgage means fewer expenses, which is less going out of your pocket, and more that can be saved for the future.

Not having a mortgage can also give you some leverage. If you decide that your current home is too big and would like to downsize, you can use the proceeds from the sale of your previous home to, hopefully, buy your new one outright.

Living Expenses

We’ve talked briefly about health care expenses during retirement and we talked about housing. Without a doubt, these are the two largest expenses during retirement. There are a few more to consider, however.

Transportation – did you relocate? Or do you have family in other parts of the country? Transportation and lodging need to be taken into account when figuring out your expenses for retirement, especially if you’ll be traveling regularly.
Entertainment – you might be looking for something to fill your time. It could be filled with expensive hobbies or other activities. If you are looking for something to do, or are looking to start a hobby, be sure your budget will allow for it.
Remaining expenses – the leftover expenses are ones you deal with right now (food, clothes, utilities, bills, insurance, etc.)

A budget is just as important in retirement as it is now, if not more so. Keeping track of your expenses and your income is very essential to your finances during retirement.

You often hear people in retirement say they are on a fixed income. What that means is they have lost their ability to earn more money. What they have is it. If you are spending more than your savings and your income allows, you are setting yourself up for failure.

Income

Your income from retirement could come from a variety of places.

Social security – provided by the government. The normal advice regarding social security is that it shouldn’t replace more than 40% of your income. Meaning 60% should come from another place. Your monthly payout from Social Security does increase the longer you delay taking it, and the reverse is true if you take it early.
Pension – these are becoming less and less popular as time goes on. They were huge back in the day when workers would stay with one company until they retired, but because people switch jobs so often nowadays, employers don’t want to take the chance. If you have one, consider yourself lucky.
Retirement savings – more than likely, this is where the other significant portion of your income will come from. This is where having a financial advisor is beneficial because you have to use enough of your savings to afford your retirement, but not too much so you don’t run out of money. Tricky.
Other areas – there can be other sources of income during retirement. You could have some dividend or interest income from your investments, you could work part-time to stay active and earn a little extra, or you could possibly have a rental property or several.

If you want to learn more about where your income could come from in retirement, click here.

Wherever your income comes from, it’s important to coordinate effectively so you maximize your current income without jeopardizing your savings.

What will you do in retirement?

How you spend your time will also have a huge effect on your expenses.

If you plan on spending most of your time with your grandkids, retirement could be more affordable than if you planning on golfing a few times per week. Although it could quite possibly be much more expensive than golf, we all know how grandparents are with their grandchildren.

If money is tight and you are looking for things to fill your day, there are many free or low-cost activities available to you.

Volunteer – not only is this a free activity. You’ll feel useful, you’ll get to use your brain, and you’ll have a sense of community, all are shown to increase longevity.
Go to the park – take a walk, bring a book, or just interact with nature and the community.
Community center – not all municipalities have one, but go to your local community center or go to your municipality’s website. There you will find local events, most of which are free.
Discounts – most places offer senior discounts. If you aren’t offered one, make sure you ask for it. This really could save you a lot of money on activities, food, etc.

How long will you live

The most depressing point in this post, but one of the most important. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it), no one knows how long we are going to live for.

One way to get a little indication, but not really, is your family history. If your grandparents or parents lived into their 80s, 90s, or 100s, the chances of you living a long life are a little higher.

On the flip side, if most of your relatives passed away in their 60s or 70s, your odds of living into your 80s and 90s are lower.

However, this really is no indication on how long you’ll live for. One of the most important things you can do for yourself is to live a healthy lifestyle. Take a walk once or twice per day, do something daily that will engage your mind, interact with friends and people in your community, and eat better.

The 4% Rule

You’ve probably heard this before too. Here’s what it is. Once you retire, you withdraw 4% of your retirement savings every year. This is considered a safe withdrawal rate, as the withdrawals would consist mostly of interest, dividends, and unrealized gains from your investments.

Let’s say you have $1 million saved for retirement. The 4% rule would allow you to withdraw $40,000 per year. All else staying the same, you have 25 years worth of withdrawals using this method. Be advised that no growth was factored into this calculation.

Conclusion

I suppose you’d like an answer to the question we proposed in the beginning. Here it is. It depends. It depends on your current and future expenses, it depends on where you’re income will come from, it depends on how much income you expect (outside of retirement savings), and it depends on how you live your life during retirement.

Most importantly, you need to work with a financial professional, ideally someone that specializes in retirement planning.

To learn more about retirement planning and for our disclosures, visit www.crgfinancialservices.com.

Jacob Sensiba

mygfpartner.com/jacob-sensiba-wisconsin-financial-advisor/

Are you taking on to much investment risk?

August 15, 2018 by Jacob Sensiba 4 Comments

Investment risk doesn’t apply to only a select few investments, it applies to everything because every investment has its own sets of risk.

Do you know what they are? Are there ways to avoid them, or at least limit how they affect you?

Let’s dive deep into this topic and learn more.

What is investment risk?

I suppose in its simplest form, investment risk is the chance that your investment will lose value.

If you have a stock or a bond, your investment could lose value. If you have cash, inflation could eat away at your purchasing power.

There are many other types of investment risk.

Types of investment risk

Interest rate risk – The chance that an increase or decrease in interest rates could affect your investment. This specifically pertains to fixed income investments, like bonds. Interest rates and price are inversely correlated, so if rates go up prices go down, and vice versa.
Business risk – This involves a particular security. If you are investing in a company’s stock, the chance of them going out of business and you losing some or all of your investment is the risk.
Industry risk – As you can imagine, this relates to an investment within a particular industry. There are industries that are affected as a whole by certain events. If oil prices drop, the energy industry will suffer. If the economy is booming, the consumer staples sector will underperform. If tariffs are levied on steel and aluminum, the automotive and industrials sectors will be negatively affected.
Credit risk – This relates to a debt issuers ability to make good on their obligations. If you invest in a bond that matures in 10 years, you are supposed to receive two payments per year, plus your principal in the tenth year. The chance that, that debt issuer can’t make those interest payments or pay you back the principal is credit risk. I should mention that there is also a risk to stock investors. When a company goes bankrupt, it has to pay back lenders, investors, and others, but there is an order to which people are paid back, and stockholders are last on that list.
Taxability risk – This refers to a municipal bond. If a muni bond is issued with tax-exempt status, the risk is that it could lose that status before maturity.
Call risk – The chance that an investment is called back. A callable bond is the most common example. More often than not, a company will issue and call back a bond if interest rates have lowered. The issuer is refinancing in a sense. They buy the bonds back in order to reissue them at a lower interest rate, and this will cost them less money in the long run. Fear not, however, because you have the added risk of your investment being called away, you are usually compensated with a higher interest rate.
Inflation risk – Essentially, how severely inflation could eat away at the purchasing power of your investment. Cash is most at risk because you are getting zero return and inflation at any level is costing you money. Stocks, historically, are the best investment to outpace inflation.
Liquidity risk – Your ability to sell your investment when you want to. Some investments trade more frequently, thus have higher liquidity. Stocks are a great example of an investment with high liquidity. An investment with low liquidity, depending on the market environment, is real estate, or physical items, such as precious metals, guns, or art.
Market risk – The risk that at any point in time your particular investment, whether it’s stocks, bonds, real estate, gold, etc. will lose value. Prices in all of those investments can and will fall at one point or another, and no amount of diversification can save you from it.
Geopolitical risk – Think war, terrorist acts, tariffs being levied on certain countries or products, etc. Geopolitical risk happens in your country or in other countries that yours is involved with. When 9/11 occurred, the NYSE and NASDAQ closed in anticipation of panic selling. On the first day of trading, the Dow fell 7.1% and closed the week down 14% (source). Heck, just this year the threat of tariffs has put investors on edge and increased volatility.
Currency risk – This usually affects people who have investments or business operations in other countries. If the value of a currency compared to the USD (U.S. Dollar) goes up, that could negatively affect the bottom line for businesses.
Mortality risk – The chance that you will die before fees, premiums, and payments will have been worth it. This usually revolves around insurance products, but could also relate to social security or money you’ve stashed away for retirement through the years. If you worked and saved for 30 years, but passed away in your sixties, and were unable to enjoy the fruits of your labor, that’s mortality risk.

Three asset classes and associated risks

There are many other asset classes and investments available, but these are the three that most people are associated with.

Stocks – Market risk, business risk, industry risk, credit risk, geopolitical risk.
Bonds – Market risk, business risk, industry risk, credit risk, geopolitical risk, inflation risk, interest rate risk.
Cash – Inflation risk

Diversification

Though not all risk can be diversified away, and you will take on some risk in every investment, no matter how careful you are, it’s important to diversify.

Each asset class and each investment have its own unique risks. In any portfolio, it’s important to diversify between stocks, bonds, real estate, cash, physical assets, and geographic location.

The allocation to each set of assets will vary depending on your risk tolerance. Traditionally, stocks are the riskiest of these but offer the most reward, then bonds, and then cash. Holding real estate and physical assets, like gold is just another way to diversify your assets. Gold, however, is usually a good investment to have when the market tanks, as it’s often referred to as a safe haven asset.

With regard to geographic location, the U.S. is only one-quarter of global GDP (source) and the U.S. stock market is only 43% of global market value (source) so you’d be silly not to invest money in other countries. Besides, if the U.S. market/economy tanks, not every country will follow.