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Choosing A Retirement Plan For Your Business

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What type of retirement plan to use is a big question for employers. Not only do they want to do what’s right for the business, but they also want to do what’s best for their employees and future employees.

In the following article, we’ll break down three of the most popular options for employer-sponsored retirement plans.

What are your options?

If you’re an individual, your options are pretty straight forward. Outside of your employer-based plan, you can either contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA.

As a business, however, you have many other options. For organizations that are for-profit and not a government body, you the SEP IRA, SIMPLE IRA, and the 401(k).

More than likely, you’re most familiar with the 401(k). We’ll explore each of these below.

SEP IRA

Stands for Simplified Employee Pension Individual Retirement Account.

This retirement account is typically used with one-man shops or small businesses with a couple of employees.

The reason is the money contributed to the employee’s accounts can only come from the business. Employees are not eligible to contribute to their SEP account.

Here the characteristics of a SEP IRA:

  • Must contribute the same percentage of salary for each employee
  • Don’t need to contribute every year
  • Maximum contribution is $54,000 per year or 25% of annual salary, whichever is less
  • Contributions are deductible as a business expense for the entity
  • Money grows tax-deferred
  • When funds are withdrawn, they are taxed as ordinary income
  • Rules similar to a Traditional IRA
    • Withdrawals prior to 59 ½ unless used for a qualified purpose (qualified meaning exempt from the penalty, which is 10%)
    • Required Minimum Distributions must begin at 70 ½

SIMPLE IRA

Stands for Savings Incentive Match for Employee Individual Retirement Account.

Designed for small businesses, and has an employee limit of 100. If you go over 100 employees, you need to switch to a 401(k).

The SEP and SIMPLE (compared to the 401(k)) are inexpensive to set up and administer, and may be a great option for small businesses that want to offer a plan for their employees, but don’t want to pay the costs associated with a 401(k).

Here are the characteristics of a SIMPLE IRA:

  • Contribution limit of $13,000. A catch-up contribution of $3,000 for those 50 or older
  • Employees can contribute to their own plan (unlike the SEP)
  • Employers match contributions
    • Match up to 3% of employee’s contribution (doesn’t have to contribute if the employee doesn’t contribute).
    • Contribute a flat 2% whether or not the employee contributes.
  • Similar to the last plan, withdrawals before 59 ½ are penalized.
  • Also similar to the last plan, distributions must begin at 70 ½
  • There’s a weird quirk with the Simple, as well. If you withdraw funds earlier than 2 years after your first contribution, you’re penalized 25%.

401(k)

The 401(k). The plan that most people are familiar with, and if you have an employer-sponsored plan, it’s more than likely, this one.

The 401(k) gained popularity as companies switched from defined benefit plans (pensions) to defined contribution, where it became the responsibility of the employee to save for retirement instead of the employer.

Here are the characteristics of the 401(k):

  • Contribution limit is $19,000 with a catch-up of $6,000 for people 50 or older.
  • Total contribution limit, including employer contributions, is $54,000.
  • The 401(k) is an expensive plan to set up and administer, especially when compared to the previous two plans.
  • Like the previous two plans, the 401(k) penalizes you if you withdraw before 59 ½ unless your reason for withdrawal qualifies for an exemption. And you must begin withdrawing funds when you turn 70 ½.
  • With this plan, however, you are able to take a loan out against your savings. This loan has to be paid back, usually in the form of increased monthly contributions.
    • If you are let go from your job while you have a loan on the plan, you will be forced to pay it back with 60 days. If you don’t you’ll be taxed on the amount, and if you’re under 59 ½, you’ll be penalized 10%.
  • This type of plan is designed for larger employers, though there is no maximum or minimum on how many employees you can have.
    • They have a type of 401(k) called the solo 401(k). It has all the same rules and quirks as the standard 401(k), but it’s designed for someone who works by themselves OR their only employee is a spouse.

How to choose

Unfortunately, I can’t say which plan is the best. Each one has its own unique advantages and disadvantages.

When deciding which plan is best for you and your business, there are a few things I would take into consideration.

  1. Number of employees – some plans disqualify you if you have too many employees.
  2. Matching ability – Most 401(k) plans match up to 6%. The SIMPLE requires you to match up to 3% or contribute a flat 2% for every employee.
  3. Cost – Some plans are less expensive to set up and service than others. In terms of the 401(k), the more participants and assets you have in the plan, the less expensive (per user) it becomes.
  4. Attracting talent – More and more employers are using benefits packages to attract employees rather than salary, in what’s called all-in compensation. If you want to get qualified candidates in the door, you have to offer good benefits.

Conclusion

It should be known that whatever you decide, it’s not set in stone. If you set up a SIMPLE and you need to hire more employees than you anticipated, you can set up a 401(k). The SIMPLE will have to stay in place, and you’d just have current and new employees contribute to the 401(k).

For more information on all of these plans and others, read this article here.

Be advised: The numbers and figures listed in this article are for 2019. Contribution limits tend to change over time. Please review the IRS website for up to date information.

Why I Love The Roth IRA

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The Roth IRA started in 1997 and it changed the retirement savings game.

It’s probably my most recommended retirement savings vehicle, other than your employer-sponsored plan of course. You have to get that match!

The Roth IRA can be your primary retirement account or a nice complement to a work-based plan.

Here’s why I love the Roth IRA.

Tax-free withdrawals! That’s right, if you save for retirement using the Roth IRA, you get to take that tax-deferred (don’t pay taxes while money grows) savings out of your account without paying taxes.

While you’re working, you generally have two options (besides contributing to your 401k or Simple IRA) do I contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA? The amount of money you make plays a little bit of a factor, as the Roth IRA has an income limit ($137,000 – single, $203,000 – married filing jointly).

However, a back-door contribution is available. That’s where you make a contribution to a traditional IRA and roll the money from there into a Roth IRA. Be advised: You’ll be taxed at the time of the rollover.

That aside, contributions to a traditional IRA are tax-deductible (an income limit applies here). Conversely, contributions to a Roth IRA are not tax deductible.

Here’s why I like to recommend the Roth. I’d save for retirement, without getting that tax-deduction and pay $0 taxes upon withdrawal in retirement. At that point in time, your ability to earn more money is either dramatically reduced or gone completely.

It’s at this point when you need that money the most. I’d rather pay for it now and benefit from it later.

With all that said, I suppose I should list all the characteristics of a Roth IRA.

  • For 2019, the contribution limit is $6,000. If you are 50 or older, you can contribute an extra $1,000. Be advised: these contributions limits change often. Consult the IRS website for up to date information.
  • Because the money in the account was already taxed, there are no mandatory withdrawals. Uncle Sam got his cut already so you can let that baby grow for as long as you want.
  • If you withdraw before 59 1/2, you’ll pay a 10% tax penalty
  • There are exceptions to this penalty, however.
    • Death
    • Disability
    • Use up to 10% on your first home purchase
    • Pay for higher education
    • Medical costs are more than 7.5% of your AGI
    • Can pay health insurance premiums if you’re unemployed
    • The IRS has a tax levy against you
  • You can make contributions for the prior “tax” year up to April 15th.
  • If you withdraw your savings within 5 years of your first contribution, you’ll pay some taxes on your withdrawal.
    • Note: The 5-year clock starts ticking on January 1st of the year you made your first contribution

Conclusion

As I said, the Roth IRA is a great savings vehicle. Whether you use it on its own or use it as a complement to an employer-sponsored plan, it has a place in everybody’s retirement plan.

One last thing I want to mention. My reasoning behind why I recommend the Roth IRA so often is my personal belief. Please use your situation and your money/retirement philosophy when making this decision. It also pays to talk to a professional to see what they’re thoughts are, as well.

What is the Coverdell ESA?

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Introducing the last account type on our quest to find the best way to save for college, the Coverdell ESA.

Without further delay, here’s what you need to know about the Coverdell ESA.

What is it?

Like the 529, the Coverdell ESA is an education savings vehicle for K-12 and secondary education. Coverdell ESA stands for Coverdell Education Savings Account.

It got its name from Senator Paul Coverdell, who introduced the legislation for a similar account, the Education IRA. In 2002, a new piece of legislation was introduced to make the account what it is today.

The 529 and the Coverdell ESA share many of the same characteristics, but there are some things that set it apart. All of these will be listed below.

Advantages

  • Savings and investments in the account grow tax-deferred and are withdrawn tax-free when used for qualified education expenses.
  • When it comes time to withdraw, those funds are not considered income, as long as you are using them for qualified education expenses.
  • Can use in conjunction with other education tax credits, like the Lifetime Learning Credit, as long as there’s no double-dipping.
  • These accounts are self-directed, so your investment options are plentiful. They include…
    • Age-based funds
    • Static mutual funds
    • ETFs
    • Stocks
    • Bonds
    • Real estate

Disadvantages

  • Contribution limit of $2,000 per child per year.
  • The funds inside the account are taken into consideration when you file for financial aid. The assets are considered their parents assets.
  • If the money is not withdrawn from the account by the time the beneficiary is 30, they could be subject to taxes and penalties.
    • After 30, the funds inside the account become fully taxable and you’re penalized 10%.
  • Like the 529, contributions to this account are not tax-deductible.

Unique Characteristics

  • Only eligible to families/individuals that fall below an income threshold ($110,000 for single taxpayers and $220,000 for couples who file jointly).
  • The contribution limit is $2,000 per child per year, so even if a family member opens an account for your child, you still can’t go over that number, or there will be a penalty.
  • Qualified expenses include…
    • Tuition
    • Books
    • Supplies
    • Equipment
    • Tutoring
    • Special needs services
  • And can also include…
    • Room and board
    • Uniforms
    • Supplementary and transportation services
  • With a 529, the account owner has control over the assets. Conversely, with a Coverdell ESA, the beneficiary has control.

Conclusion

Effectively, there are three education savings vehicles used today. The UTMA/UGMA, Coverdell ESA, and the 529 plan. I’ve written about the other two in the past so go check those out.

On paper, the 529 looks like the best option, with a high contribution limit, a large number of qualified expenses, and there’s no penalty for letting funds sit for decades.

That is all true, and honestly, I prefer the 529, but the vast, vast majority of people that are helping their children save for college will not come close to the high contribution limit.

The only drawback to the Coverdell ESA is the penalty if the funds aren’t used before 30. Other than that, I don’t think the $2,000 contribution limit is a factor because most people can’t put that much away, anyway. Not without sacrificing their ability to save for retirement, as well.

That said, they’re both great options and you can’t go wrong with either one.

What Is A 529 Plan?

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Education, especially secondary education, is getting more and more expensive. The cost of a 4-year public university has gone up 110% from 1994 to 2014 (Source).

Conversely, wages have grown an astounding 8 times slower than that (Source).

What can you do to save for college? How can you help your kids? Are there certain vehicles that work better than others?

We’ll take a look at one of those in the following article.

What is a 529?

A college savings plan that is exempt from federal taxes, if you use the funds to pay for qualified education-related expenses.

Those expenses include tuition, books, room and board, computer equipment, and necessary supplies for students with special needs, as long as the student is attending at least half-time.

Advantages

  • Funds can be used for K-12, university, graduate school, and trade schools.
  • Parents can withdraw $10,000 per student per year to pay for tuition ONLY.
  • Other people, besides the account owner, can contribute to a 529 plan.
  • If funds are used for the beneficiary you intended, they can be transferred to a family member.
  • Earnings grow tax-deferred

Disadvantages

  • Gift tax exclusions – You are exempt from paying gift taxes if you keep it under $15,000 per individual per year, or $75,000 as lump sum every 5 years.
  • A penalty of 10% will be assessed for funds used on non-qualified expenses.
  • Limited investment options – most plans offer mutual funds as investments
    • Risk-based – Aggressive, moderate, conservative, etc.
    • Age-based – You can select an age-based fund from the get-go, and the fund company will reallocate into new funds as your child gets older.
    • Self-selected

Miscellaneous

  • All plans come with federal tax advantages, but some states offer tax deductions and credits as well!
  • Every dollar in a 529 plan will deduct 5.6% from your family’s need-based financial aid
    • One way around that is to have a family member act as the custodian for the account, so it isn’t in your name
    • However, once the child begins withdrawing the funds and is still attending school, they could have 50% of their financial aid withheld because those withdrawals are considered income
  • You can open one using other state’s plans, besides your own state

Other types of accounts

  • Coverdell ESA – Similar to the 529 in that you use the funds to pay for education-related expenses, However, there is an annual contribution limit of $2,000 per beneficiary, and there’s also an income restriction (once you make above a certain amount, you can no longer contribute to a Coverdell ESA).
  • UTMA/UGMA – Stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act/Uniform Gift to Minors Act. I’ve written about this in the past, so if you’d like to learn more, check out the article here.
  • IRA – You can use a Traditional IRA or a Roth IRA to pay for education expenses. Similar to the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, the expenses must be qualified and the student must go to a qualified institution, as indicated by the Department of Education. The most beneficial way to use an IRA is to withdraw the funds from a Roth IRA, but only withdraw what you contributed.

Conclusion

Secondary education is expensive! If you start saving for your kids’ college right away, the compounding returns could really help you save a decent amount.

It’s important to use the right vehicle, and, in my opinion, there’s no better option than the 529.

If you’d like to learn more about paying for college, read this article here. Or if you’re a future or current student that need some finance tips, read this one here.

Be advised: Investments in 529 plans involve risks to principal and may involve additional fees such as enrollment charges and annual maintenance fees. 529 plans offer no guarantees. There are exceptions to the gift tax and estate tax exemptions; please contact a qualified tax, legal, or financial advisor for more information prior to investing.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Why Do Interest Rates Matter?

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I was running through my normal Google alerts yesterday and saw a headline that said, “Do interest rates matter?”

My answer is an emphatic YES!

Of course, interest rates matter. It determines how much you pay and how much you get paid!

When you borrow

Whether you’re talking a mortgage, an auto loan, a business loan, or a credit card, you are charged an interest rate when you borrow money.

For example, the average mortgage rate right now is a shade under 4.5%. In 1981, that same rate got to over 18%. To put these numbers into context, here’s a comparison of the same mortgage with different rates.

Loan amount $250,000. Interest rate 4.5%. 30-year fixed rate. Monthly payment – $1,266.71. Total amount paid after 30 years – $456,015.60.

That same mortgage with an 18% interest rate translates into a $3,767.71 monthly payment, and a total amount paid after 30 years – $1,356,375.60.

Obviously, these are extreme examples, but you get my point.

Just 3 years ago, mortgage rates were a full percentage point lower, until the Federal Reserve started to increase interest rates.

The same goes for credit cards. That 18% mortgage rate from ‘81 is close to the average credit card interest rate today. If you’re using credit cards to buy things you can’t afford, you’re definitely paying for it.

When you save

If you are responsible with your money and are able to save it, you should be rewarded for that behavior. Interest rates are creeping higher now, but a year or two ago you were getting paid next to nothing on your savings account.

When interest rates increase, so does the money you earn from your savings.

The Federal Reserve

The FED sets the tone. They raise or lower the Federal Funds Rate and that has a ripple effect on all the other interest rates in the financial system.

They have a tough job, as you can see currently because they have to raise rates enough to keep inflation at bay but keep them low enough as not to cause a recession.

You see, when the FED raises interest rates, all rates that are classified as variable (on existing debt) go up. The most common example is credit cards. As credit card rates increase, so does the cost of servicing those outstanding balances (minimum payments go up).

As people’s debt gets more expensive to service, the number of defaults (failure to make adequate payments) goes up. This will create a domino effect and can bring the economic system to a halt.

This is similar to what happened in 2008, although on a much larger scale. And 2008 wasn’t caused by frivolous spending, it was caused by finance executives giving mortgages to people who couldn’t afford them, as well as signing poorly structured loans that were affordable in the beginning, but became unaffordable a short while later.

Approaching recession

When The Great Financial Crisis happened, the FED lower interest rates to 0%. This encouraged financial institutions to lend money, and incentivized businesses and individuals to borrow money.

People who borrow, spend, and people who spend help grow the economy.

Here’s our current problem. The Federal Funds Rate is currently at 2.5%. When the economy experiences a recession, in order to encourage borrowing and spending to get the economy out of the recession, the FED needs to cut rates by at least 4 percentage points (I got this number from Dr. James Rickards).

The Trump Administration and other parties are calling for the FED to cut rates to continue the current expansion.

The only problem is this expansion will have to come to an end at some point, and when it does (if rates don’t increase) the FED won’t be able to cut rates enough to help the economy.

Conclusion

I’ll say it again. Interest rates matter.

If you’d like to learn more about this topic and for my disclosures, please visit CRG Financial Services.

 

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What are UGMA and UTMA accounts?

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What is a UGMA account? What is a UTMA account? How are they different? What is the purpose of using one over other savings vehicles?

We’re going to dive into those questions and a few others in the following piece.

What are they?

The UTMA and the UTMA are custodial accounts. An adult (the custodian) opens an account for the benefit of a minor.

UTMA stands for Uniform Transfer to Minors Act. UGMA stands for Uniform Gift to Minors Act. The difference has to do with the age of majority, but more on that later.

Characteristics

For all intents and purposes, these accounts are treated the same. As I said, an adult opens the account for the benefit of a minor.

The account itself does not have a limit of how much you can contribute to it, however, there is a gift tax exclusion for the custodian or anyone else that contributes to the account. While I’m here, I should mention that anyone can put money into the account, not just the custodian.

Anyway, the gift tax exclusion is $15,000 per recipient. If the person doing the gifting this amount, they could owe the gift tax.

As far as the age of the majority goes, generally the UGMA is 18 and the UTMA is 21. However, every state is different, so make sure you check to see what the age of majority is in your state.

Prior to the age of majority, the minor is unable to use the funds in the account UNLESS it’s for the benefit of said minor. Once they hit the age of majority, they can use the funds however they want.

Disadvantages

Two of the more common vehicles for education savings are the 529 plan and the Coverdell ESA. Now, I’m not going to go into those two, but they each share one key advantage. Any funds withdrawn for education-related expenses, come out tax-free.

The UTMA/UGMA does not have this capability. What’s more, the taxes on any capital gains made and/or dividends received throughout the year must be paid by the minor.

Also, funds sitting in a UTMA/UGMA, for the sake of the FAFSA, are considered the minor’s assets, and can negatively affect financial aid.

Advantages

There’ve been a lot of negatives so far, and if I’m being honest, there are other savings vehicles available that have more advantages.

The one thing I can think of as an advantage is accessibility.

With the 529 and the Coverdell ESA, any funds not used for education-related expenses are subject to a penalty.

With a UGMA/UTMA, the beneficiary can use the funds for anything that benefits them (while they’re a minor), or they can use them for anything at all once they’ve hit the age of majority.

Conclusion

If you are looking for accounts that are designed around saving for college, then a UTMA/UGMA is not for you. However, if you are looking for an account that is easy to set up, easy to use, and gives you more control, then I definitely would recommend utilizing one.

To make a formal recommendation, I’d go with the UTMA. Again, depending on your state’s rules, this enables you to save more for the beneficiary and prolongs when they can have access to those funds.

If you have any questions about what was said here and for my disclosures, go to my website.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

Saving Money With Regular Maintenance

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When was the last time you exercised, had your furnace worked on, or had your oil changed? Performing regular maintenance, in any part of your life, can be quite annoying at times, but it can really make a difference.

The difference can come in the form of money saved, longevity, and/or decreased stress. That said, let’s look into why maintenance is important.

Health

As a nation, the United States is unhealthy. We put junk food into our bodies and lead a sedentary lifestyle that is causing more problems than gaining weight.

Not only is physical exercise good for your body, with benefits like preventing bone loss, increasing muscle strength, improving coordination and balance, and reducing your risk of cardiovascular disease, but it also helps your mind.

Just over half of all Americans are meeting the physical aerobic exercise requirement (Source). The requirement is either 150 minutes of moderate aerobic activity per week or 75 minutes of vigorous aerobic activity per week. Not a lot, right?

Americans spend $3.4 trillion per year on healthcare (Source), and I believe this number could drop dramatically if we all just took better care of ourselves.

Bottom line, regular exercise, and a well-balanced diet can (depending on other genetic risk factors, etc.) can dramatically reduce your long-term healthcare costs.

Home

Regular maintenance of your home has a number of benefits.

  1. It saves you money because all the mechanical components are running optimally. Efficient use of utilities is less expensive. It also increases the longevity of that equipment.
  2. Maximizes your home’s value and resale potential
  3. Peace of mind knowing your home is well-cared for. Stress has negative health effects. Reducing it can improve your health and lower healthcare-related costs.

Car

Keeping your car in optimal running condition will extend its life. It also makes the vehicle more safe to operate because the odds that something breaks while driving is reduced.

A poorly tuned vehicle can use up to 50% more fuel (Source). Spending $50-$100 every three months on an oil change is definitely worth it.

For example, let’s say you fill up once per week at $25. Over a three month period, you’d normally spend $325 on gas. If you’re driving a poorly tuned vehicle, you’ll spend $487.50. Over 1 year, that’s a difference of over $600.

Budget

Creating a budget and regularly checking in to make sure that a) you’re sticking with it and b) it’s still appropriate.

Often when people start budgeting, they find themselves with more money to play with. If they have outstanding debt, they can use that extra money to pay it off.

This could free up more cash that can be used for saving, investing, or getting that cable TV back.

Another thing you should do is cut or eliminate expenses that are otherwise unnecessary. The average American spends almost half of their food budget on eating out (Source).

Investing

This section will revolve around asset allocation and not about picking stocks and the like, specifically, in ones’ retirement plan.

If you have a retirement plan (you really should) my advice is to allocate your assets according to your risk tolerance, time horizon, and comfort level (from a psychological perspective).

If you have a retirement plan through your employer, I strongly recommend utilizing a target-date fund. This takes the worry and the guesswork out of the equation.

Where was I, oh yeah, asset allocation? Unless we’re in a bear market, your stock allocation will do better than your bond allocation.

Over time, the stock part of your portfolio will take up a larger share of your overall portfolio. It’s wise to regularly (though opinions differ) to rebalance back to your original allocation, otherwise, you risk being more aggressive than you intended.

Conclusion

Whether you’re talking about your home, car, or anything else, regular maintenance can save you a lot of money.

Please visit our website to learn more and for our disclosures.

Read More:

Fuel Up and Save Big: Costco’s Secrets to Slashing Your Gas Expenses!

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Creating A Financial Plan You Can Stick To

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The more I read and the more I meet with people, the more I realize that setting up a financial plan is more than dollars and cents.

Yes, the better financial plans have your typical items. Save this much, invest in these things, and contribute to this retirement plan.

But the best plans not only have this to take care of your financial needs but they’re also set up in a way that your psychological needs are met as well.

Can you stick with it?

The best plan is anyone that you can stick with. When setting up your plan, go through it slowly. Take each item one step at a time and consider possible scenarios when determining a particular section.

For example, when setting up a plan for your emergency fund, figure out what’s realistic for how much you’ll need and how long it will take you to get there.

Also, figure out how it will be replenished if/when it’s ever used. Perhaps you’ll have an automatic deposit setup indefinitely?

Another thing to keep in mind is including some flexibility in your plan. For example, if part of the process is setting up a budget and your weakness is eating takeout, include a little bit of money for it.

I generally advocate for eating your meals at home, but if it’s inevitable that you’ll go out to eat, it’s better to include a little bit of it, rather than trying to avoid it.

Will you gasp every time the market dips?

Investing is a vital part of your financial plan. Investing is what helps your savings grow, but at times, your investments can lose value.

Our psychology plays a big role in our success as an investor. It’s said that we experience the pain of a loss two times stronger than we experience the joy of a gain.

That said, you need to plan accordingly to keep your emotions in check. If you let them take control of your decisions, you could end up selling your investments after you’ve already lost value, at which point it may be better for you to stay in.

Most investable assets are in a retirement plan of some sort, so your time horizon is, more than likely, long-term. 20+ years for instance. Your risk tolerance is the other part to take into consideration.

How much are you willing to lose until you say, uncle? In a six month period, would you have to sell after you lost 10%, 20%, 30%, or more? Your answer to this will help determine what you are able to stomach.

The next thing to do is to stress test your portfolio. The popular investing/research websites will have this. You plug in your portfolio with dollar amounts and ticker symbols, and then (depending on the site) you can select a variety of scenarios to see how your portfolio would do during that scenario.

The 2008 Financial Crisis is a common one.

Conclusion

Creating a financial plan that has the potential to meet your goals is important, and having a plan that you’re comfortable with and one that will help you sleep at night is optimal.

Make sure, when you are developing your plan, that you are factoring in your behavior as an investor and as a human. We are emotional creatures, and that makes investing a little more difficult.

If you’d like to learn more about what was discussed here and for our disclosures, visit our website.

 

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How To Pump Up Your Finances

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By “pump up,” I mean to do something that improves your financial situation in any way. Reduce expenses, start a rainy day fund, invest for the future, etc.

With that said, let’s take a look at some simple strategies to pump up your finances.

Cut the fat

I’d start by creating a budget. Look at the past three months of income and expenses. Total the expenses, total your income and compare the two. This will give you a clear picture of how much you are spending versus how much you make.

After that, you can go back with a magnifying glass and see exactly where your money is going, and stop spending money where it is necessary, or at least reduce it.

You can also reduce the fees you pay to invest. Mutual funds and ETFs are the most popular vehicles used today, but they come with a cost. It’s listed as an expense ratio. That ratio should be as low as possible. Ideally, it’ll be under .20%.

A quick tip to cut your expenses – get rid of cable/dish. There are too many services available now. You don’t need to spend $100+ on TV anymore.

Increase savings rate

Hopefully, you are saving something. If you are having trouble setting money aside because of limited resources, give this article a read for some help.

You should be saving in at least two places. An emergency fund and a retirement plan.

  • Emergency fund – Say you are contributing $20 per month. This is a good place to start, but you’re going to want to save more so you have enough in case your car breaks down or you lose your job. After three months of saving $20/month. Increase that amount by $5. After another three months, at which point you’ll have gotten used to not having that extra $5, increase it again. Rinse and repeat.
  • Retirement plan – If you have a retirement plan with your employer and they match, you’ll want to contribute at least enough to get that match. That’s your starting point. Then you’ll follow the same steps as the emergency fund. After a few months, increase the contribution percentage. If you don’t have a plan with your employer, set up an IRA, start contributing what’s comfortable for you, and follow those same steps.

I mentioned you should have AT LEAST these two accounts. Personally, I have several savings accounts. They are set up for different reasons. I have one for holiday spending, one for car repairs, and one for travel expenses. Giving your money a “job” makes it more likely that you’ll use that money for that “job.”

Switch to an online bank

Most online banks have higher interest rates on savings accounts. They also, typically, have lower rates on loans (based on credit score).

If you are saving money for a rainy day and putting it with a brick and mortar bank, you’re most likely earning next to nothing. Better to put that money in an account where you’ll earn a little interest.

Refinance high-interest rate loans

I’m going to dedicate this section to credit cards because that’s what most people think of when they hear high-interest rates.

There are three strategies you can use.

  1. Balance transfer – Many credit card companies offer a 0% APR on balance transfers for a certain period of time. Some have terms for 21 months. The interest rate will jump after the 21st month, though, so make sure your balance is paid off before then.
  2. Personal loan – If you have credit card debt and don’t, or can’t, utilize a 0% balance transfer, then a personal loan is your next option. You get a loan for the total amount of outstanding credit card debt. Then the institution will send a payment to each credit card company and pay off your credit card debt. You’ll be left with one payment. Be advised, credit matters here (also for balance transfers) so if the interest rate on the personal loan is higher than the average interest rate of your credit cards, don’t do it.
  3. The last option is to call the credit card company and ask for a lower rate. More often than not, if it’s available, they’ll give it to you. It won’t lower your payment a whole lot, but it’ll definitely help.

If you want to learn more about credit cards, click here.

Improve your credit

Your credit score makes a difference. It can impact what loans you qualify for, the interest rate, where you live, and where you work.

If you want to start making moves in your financial life, you need to improve your credit.

There are three really simple ways to do this.

  1. Pay more than the minimum on your outstanding debt and pay on time – on time payments is the #1 factor when calculating your score.
  2. Call your utility company and see if they report to the credit agency. It’ll count as another credit account (a factor) and it’ll influence your on-time payments.
  3. Open a secured credit card – You open this type of card with a deposit. The deposit will act as your credit limit. If you deposit $500, you’ll have a credit limit of $500. Make regular, small purchases and pay the entire balance right away. Credit agencies like to so activity and, as I’ve said, on-time payments.

If you want to learn more about improving your credit, click here.

Conclusion

If you want to improve your financial life, it’s actually pretty straight forward. Spend less than you make, save money for the future, pay down debt, and improve your credit. If you do these four things (obviously, easier said than done), goals that once seemed far fetched, can be within reach.

Please visit my website for our disclosures.

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.

A Few Tax Tips Suitable for Anyone

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Seeing as how next Monday is tax day, I thought it would be fitting to write about taxes. This article will have little to do with income taxes, however.

Instead, I’ll be focusing on the taxability of retirement accounts and brokerage accounts.

Qualified Accounts

A qualified account is pretty much anything that has a tax advantage. Tax advantage simply means that the investments inside the account grow tax-deferred – you aren’t taxed on the growth within the account, and/or the money can be withdrawn tax-free.

There are several different kinds of qualified accounts. Instead of listing them all, I’m going to list a few of the common ones and link to an article containing all the accounts and what they’re about.

  • 401k – The most common employer-sponsored retirement account. It’s not offered by all employers, but the money going into the account is pre-tax. Additionally, the money grows tax-deferred. However, when withdrawn, the money is taxable as income according to your tax bracket.
  • Traditional IRA – This is an individual retirement account. This type of account is contributed to using post-tax money, but most people are able to deduct the contribution on their taxes. However, there is a level of income when you no longer qualify for that deduction. The money is taxable when withdrawn as income.
  • Roth IRA – Also an individual retirement account, but with three key differences. One, the money that’s contributed is not tax-deductible. Two, the money is tax-free when withdrawn. Three, not everyone is eligible to open a Roth IRA once a certain level of income is reached.

Each of these plans has unique characteristics and rules. I encourage you to give this article a read to learn more about them. (Note: income eligibility for IRAs is listed in this article)

Non-qualified accounts

No bells or whistles. These accounts are designed to hold your cash, securities, and give you the ability to invest and trade.

Qualified accounts do the same thing, but have tax-advantages. Non-qualified accounts don’t.

There are usually two types of accounts: individual and joint. An individual account is for one person. A joint account is for two or more.

With a non-qualified account, there are two things you have to pay attention to.

  • Capital gains/losses – A capital gain is when you sell an investment for more than what you paid for it and a capital loss is the exact opposite. A capital gain comes in two variations. Short-term, which is when you held an investment for less than one year and is taxed at your income tax bracket. Long-term, when you held an investment for longer than one year and is taxed at a reduced tax rate.
  • Dividends/interest – These are paid by the company or fund and are taxed as income.

Tax return as savings

The last thing I wanted to talk about is your tax return and how you use it/view it. There are three types of returns. When you owe, when you break even, and when you get money back.

What I try to do, and what I generally recommend people do, is get as close to breaking even as you can. This just means you paid about the exact amount in taxes that you should have. No more, no less.

Here’s when I’m okay with people getting money back.

As a collective, we are horrible at saving money. The statistics show it. Now if you go through the year and pay more taxes than you need to and want to use that tax return as a makeshift savings account, then have at it.

My philosophy is if it helps you save money and it works for you, then do it. Some people need that type of set up.

Regular savings account don’t work for everyone because often, they are able to access the money whenever they want/need to. If you’re using your tax return as your savings vehicle, you don’t have that opportunity.

Conclusion

Love it or hate it, taxes are a part of life, and they won’t go away. There are certain strategies and certain accounts you can utilize to help make them more manageable/bearable.

If you’d like to learn more about anything discussed here and for my disclosures, visit my company’s website!

 

If reading this blog post makes you want to try your hand at blogging, we have good news for you; you can do exactly that on Saving Advice. Just click here to get started.